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I'm a bit worried by that 240v socket labelled "240v".

 

Are there any other 240 v style sockets (with the square holes) that are not connected to 240v? I ask because I helped rewire a boat where the previous owner had bodged 240v sockets into the 12v system, and attached 240v plugs to his 12v items- a disaster waiting to happen!!

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You only need to use that blue artic flex for the 240v, the 12v can be in twin core sheathed multi core cable of the correct size for power consumption and volt drop, but if you use a marine electrician he will calculate this for you, but it looks like it needs a complete rewire to me.

Neil

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1 minute ago, Neil Smith said:

You only need to use that blue artic flex for the 240v, the 12v can be in twin core sheathed multi core cable of the correct size for power consumption and volt drop, but if you use a marine electrician he will calculate this for you, but it looks like it needs a complete rewire to me.

Neil

PS, i would get him to run all cables apart from ceiling lights under the gunwales where they can be boxed in for access, and make insulating with celotex much easier.

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Pictures showing the effect on PVC cables when in contact with polystyrene.

You can buy 'cables with non-migratory' PVC which are used in the domestic appliance industry for passing thru' polystyrene cabinets.

The plasticisers 'migrate' leaving bare copper conductors, which can short out, and if not properly fused, can glow red and ignite the polystyrene. Have you ever seen polystyrene burn ? When you make 'home-made' napalm it has two constituents, petrol & polystyrene.

 

 

PVC Cable.jpg

PVC Cable2.jpg

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On 25/03/2017 at 20:42, jddevel said:

I will add my two pennyworth regarding insulation and ducting and electric cabling. A requisite of house building regulations is/was that electric cabling should be allowed for any heat they may produce to readily dissipate. Especially any cabling that may take heavy loads. In fact at one time it was advised a 50mm clearance around any cable although this seems to not be followed by many "qualified" electricians work I`ve seen so perhaps it is only now considered an advisory and I was mis-informed. The advantage of ducting is access for change and possible additions and that opportunity to potentially remain cool.

In its simplest form the wiring regs for houses requires the current carrying capacity of a cable to be halved if it is within a thermally insulated environment (like within Celotex). For 2.5mm that means around 18.5A and protected by a 16A mcb. As that fits a narrowboat's specification perfectly we never worry about whether or not the mains cable is 'buried'.  

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You used to be able to get multistrand twin and earth it was expensive [I used to be a buyer for Edmundson electrical ] we had q roll of it dont know why it was 6242x or something like that [it was 17 years ago]:D

Edited by peterboat
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There's no requirement to change the T&E on that age of boat (not required for private BSS, RCD doesn't apply)

Though there's a miniscule theoretical risk of breakage, in practice I'd expect you'd be more likely to get hit by lightning while on the tiller. :)

So I'd probably leave the T&E as is if in good condition, unless it's a ££££ refurb designed to appeal to fussy buyers - 'experts'? :rolleyes:.

Fine stranded wire is not without its issues when used with normal electrical bits. (use bootlace ferrules or else possibly hello smoke and flames :wacko:)

Edited by smileypete
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