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Help please. Oil spill and rattling engine


Simon and Pu

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13 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

If the oil light was on all the time was there sufficient oil in the sump to start with?

 

Is it possible the oil warning lamp is an oil level warning lamp as opposed to an oil pressure warning lamp?

If it is, then low oil level would occur long before the oil pump is starved and oil pressure fades away.

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1 minute ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

Is it possible the oil warning lamp is an oil level warning lamp as opposed to an oil pressure warning lamp?

Anything is possible. But I think it's extremely unlikely. 

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Just now, WotEver said:

Anything is possible. But I think it's extremely unlikely. 

 

I've never encountered an oil level monitor in an IC engine but I've read of such things existing.

Possibly just written by someone who thinks the oil pressure light is a oil level  light though.

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9 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Is it possible the oil warning lamp is an oil level warning lamp as opposed to an oil pressure warning lamp?

If it is, then low oil level would occur long before the oil pump is starved and oil pressure fades away.

 

7 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Anything is possible. But I think it's extremely unlikely. 

 

The first generation of Citroën BX's had oil level gauges, however they only worked with the ignition on before the engine started. 

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2 minutes ago, mross said:

Would the high temp alarm normally light before the engine starts?  I think I've seen boats where it doesn't.

Perhaps not. But if it doesn't how do you know the bulb works?

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I assume the OP means RCR . To my understanding CRT are a charitable trust who maintain navigation on britains canals not a breakdown service . 

Though i would not claim to know for certain id be somewhat surprised to find out that they will attend boat in order to fit a pulley where there was none present beforehand . 

You are not " broken down " afterall . No pulley has " failed " . 

I could be wrong though , maybe they will ? 

Edited by chubby
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The alternator belt has not come off it's got 2 levels of threads like a inner n outer cog. 

Got a reading of 13.5 and 14.5

They will come out at a charge of 150-200

will call them to make sure I'm not going to have an engine fire etc 

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Or the another alternator that may be tucked away under a manifold or something. I suppose 13.5V MIGHT be OK into a very flat battery but I suspect not. This is why I asked about a multi-meter reading - I really do not trust those "boy racer" type voltmeters.

Why on earth should the OP be thinking about an engine fire? Are they hiding something? £150 to £200 for an oil pressure check (if they do one) and a quick look round seems expensive to me. Ask at the local boatyard/marina.

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2 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

£150 to £200 for an oil pressure check (if they do one) and a quick look round seems expensive to me. Ask at the local boatyard/marina.

I totally agree. 

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53 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Perhaps not. But if it doesn't how do you know the bulb works?

Our temperature warning light doesn't come on unless the engine overheats.  The way to test the bulb is to pull the wire off of the sensor and earth it, the light should then come on.

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Looks to me like the engine had twin alternators and one has been removed.

But what is that plastic looking cap thing down under the alternator?  I thought it might be a blanking plug for the sump pump but it looks like a filler cap for something..? 

 

 

 

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22 minutes ago, Neil2 said:

Looks to me like the engine had twin alternators and one has been removed.

But what is that plastic looking cap thing down under the alternator?  I thought it might be a blanking plug for the sump pump but it looks like a filler cap for something..? 

 

 

 

As I said way back on page 2, this cap is where there is provision for a dipstick / oil filler when the engine is used in an enclosure with no access to the top of the engine. Barrus Shires (Yanmar) have a similar arrangement.

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3 hours ago, Flyboy said:

As I said way back on page 2, this cap is where there is provision for a dipstick / oil filler when the engine is used in an enclosure with no access to the top of the engine. Barrus Shires (Yanmar) have a similar arrangement.

Ah, I see, sorry for not paying attention.  

 

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6 hours ago, WotEver said:

With the engine running?  If so then something is awry with your split charge system. 

 

5 hours ago, WotEver said:

That suggest that particular battery is shot and requires replacement. Do you have two alternators?

Yes

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If you do have an engineer come out to the boat I would suggest that you write down, in order, what happened and what you found and what you did about it so that he has a thorough look at all the problems as a whole or individually as necessary.

it is a lot easier to write it down rather than try to remember when he gets there, this is in case you forget to tell him about something that you put back that may still need attention. It is easy to get distracted and forget to mention something

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1 hour ago, Sisco n Pu said:

Yes

Then there could be a problem with that alternator or its wiring or its belt but my money is on the battery being totally shagged. Either way that's another thing to put on the list for the engineer to check out. 

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11 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Then there could be a problem with that alternator or its wiring or its belt but my money is on the battery being totally shagged. Either way that's another thing to put on the list for the engineer to check out. 

Or that volt meter is way out.

As others have said walk down to the boat yard where you bought the oil and ask them.

 

PS. I see the OP has changed there name Sisco and Pu or Simon and Pu, I am guessing in London on the GU.

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If that alternator is a 70amp or more that single belt will probably slip with an almost flat battery. They don't always squeal. It looks like its belt drives the water pump too so I doubt if it was meant to be driven by twin belts. Is there another belt actually on the other alternator. A very basic rough check of oil pressure can be done by Starting up from cold, run for a minute then turning it off but turning the ignition switch back on immediately and timing how long it takes for the oil pressure light to come back on as the pressure leaks away, somewhere around 1/4 to 1/2 minute would be about normal. Then run the engine up to normal working temp for 20 minutes or so and do the same. The light should come back on after around about say 4 to 5 seconds when the pressure has leaked away, All providing that the sender is working ok and the oil viscosity is correct.  Very rough method, but if the timings are around these figures I'd say the engine condition is not bad.  :) Pretty tough engines Isuzu's

  • Greenie 4
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