Fridge fuse

[Alan de Enfield]

16 minutes ago, WotEver said:

But OP's problem was that a megafuse holder was the only thing that fits 10mm cable but the links start at 20A

I realise that the OPs fridge is a different make to my Waeco - but - are they not 'all the same under the skin' ?

 

As I posted above, my installation manual states a MINIMUM of 15a fuse so a 20a would be fine.

"Fit a fuse in the positive wire of at least 15A (for 12V)"

Edited March 24, 2017 by Alan de Enfield

[WotEver]

30 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

I realise that the OPs fridge is a different make to my Waeco - but - are they not 'all the same under the skin' ?

 

As I posted above, my installation manual states a MINIMUM of 15a fuse so a 20a would be fine.

"Fit a fuse in the positive wire of at least 15A (for 12V)"

That's why I posted previously that it was confusing. One document stated 'At least' 15A, one document stated 'no greater than' 15A. One document said it was to protect the apparatus. One document said it was to protect the installation. 

When I installed a Waeco on WotEver I simply used 10mm² cable and a 20A fuse because it seemed the sensible thing to do. I'm not sure I even read the instructions. 

Edited March 24, 2017 by WotEver
Typos

[cuthound]

All cables should be protected by a fuse at the supply end , ideally at close to the cable rating, but it can be smaller in certain cases, such as this.

Normally if the specific load (fridge etc) needs protecting, the manufacturer will provide an internal one.

Exceptions are domestic mains appliances, which rely on the plug top fuse for protection (and in some cases have internal fuses as well).

[Tony Brooks]

For the last few years there has been another 12/24V DC compressor on the market and I think Shoreline use whichever suits them. From memory I think my Waeco  has what looks like a Chinese knock off version.

MY solution to the OP's problem if he does not want to use a 20 amp fuse would be to either use the reducers someone linked to or to thin the conductors down so they fitted into both the insulation and conductor crimps of the terminals suitable for the 15 amp fuse holder and then insulate them with adhesive heat shrink. As the length of the reduced conductor area will be not much more than zero the voltdrop there will also be low enough to ignore.

[WotEver]

2 minutes ago, cuthound said:

Normally if the specific load (fridge etc) needs protecting, the manufacturer will provide an internal one

Which is exactly what I said in my first post in this thread. Until I read the stupid instructions. 

[cuthound]

3 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Which is exactly what I said in my first post in this thread. Until I read the stupid instructions. 

Exactly, I don't understand why this fridge is different,  after all most 12 volt fridges are domestic ones with the 24 volt AC compressor changed for a 12 volt DC one.

I must check my one on my boat sometime. I know it has a 10mm cable, but I'm not sure of the fusing arrangements.

[Dave 2]

Hi all emailed Shoreline still no reply, I'm still in the process of routing cables and fitting switches, I'll give Shoreline a few days to answer before I make my mind up on fuse size probably will go for 20A, can't see the point of putting 2.5mm cable from the battery to the switch distance about 18 inches then putting 10mm to the fridge.

[WotEver]

If you run some nice fat 10mm² cable from the battery to a 20A fuse and then from the fuse to the fridge you'll be fine. 

Edited March 24, 2017 by WotEver
Got the cable size wrong

[Dave 2]

Sounds good to me one question fuse before or after the switch? Cheers 

[WotEver]

46 minutes ago, Dave 2 said:

Sounds good to me one question fuse before or after the switch? Cheers 

After. Although it really doesn't matter a lot.