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Fridge fuse


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Hi all
I'm in the process of fitting a 12 volt fridge, using 10mm squared cable to combat voltage drop, my problem is it needs a 15 amp inline fuse because of the cable thickness.  I have bought a maxi inline fuse holder in the same cable size, but the fuses only start at 20 amp. Given the fuse should be as close to the batteries as possible I don't want to fit a smaller gauge cable. Any thoughts on connecting to the fridge using the same size cable as the fridge with an 15 amp inline fuse?

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44 minutes ago, stegra said:

What about fusing with the 20A at the battery and then with a 15A inline nearer the fridge? 

Why would you want to do that?

The fuse is there to protect the cable. 20A fusing will be perfectly adequate to protect a 10mm2 cable. 

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2 hours ago, Dave 2 said:

Hi all
I'm in the process of fitting a 12 volt fridge, using 10mm squared cable to combat voltage drop, my problem is it needs a 15 amp inline fuse because of the cable thickness.  I have bought a maxi inline fuse holder in the same cable size, but the fuses only start at 20 amp. Given the fuse should be as close to the batteries as possible I don't want to fit a smaller gauge cable. Any thoughts on connecting to the fridge using the same size cable as the fridge with an 15 amp inline fuse?

Are you sure it's 15amp, the common danfoss bd35 compressor that's in these fridges require 30amp fuse (12v).

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50 minutes ago, Robbo said:

Are you sure it's 15amp, the common danfoss bd35 compressor that's in these fridges require 30amp fuse (12v).

I have not seen where the OP states the make of fridge (have I missed it ?)

 

My Waeco fridge manual states :

➤ Connect the refrigerator – as directly as possible to the poles of the battery or – to a 12 or 24 V DC socket. Fit a fuse in the positive wire of at least 15A (for 12V) or 7.5A (for 24V) (fig. e 1, page 9). ➤ Connect the red cable (fig. e rt, page 9) to the positive terminal of the battery. ➤ Connect the black cable (fig. e sw, page 9) to the negative terminal of the battery.
 

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Just now, Alan de Enfield said:

I have not seen where the OP states the make of fridge (have I missed it ?)

 

My Waeco fridge manual states :

➤ Connect the refrigerator – as directly as possible to the poles of the battery or – to a 12 or 24 V DC socket. Fit a fuse in the positive wire of at least 15A (for 12V) or 7.5A (for 24V) (fig. e 1, page 9). ➤ Connect the red cable (fig. e rt, page 9) to the positive terminal of the battery. ➤ Connect the black cable (fig. e sw, page 9) to the negative terminal of the battery.
 

I was looking at the manual for a danfoss compressor bd35f which seems to be the common compressor in most 12v fridges.  

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1 hour ago, Dave 2 said:

I thought the fuse was to protect the fridge!, so I might go for both fuses.

If the fridge requires a fuse (which it may) then it should be within the fridge. You shouldn't have to fuse the feed to protect it. 

What fridge is it?

Edited by WotEver
Shoreline instructions suck
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Just now, Dave 2 said:

For protection of the installation a fuse must be mounted in the cable as close to the battery as possible. 15A fuse for 12V and 7.5 for 24V circuits are recommended.

Yup, as per that link I posted.

I think the easiest for you will be a 20A fuse near the battery and then near the fridge change to smaller cable so that you can fit a 15A fuse there. 

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Actually not as per the link I supplied. There's confusion here. 

In my link it requires a 15A fuse 'to protect the appliance'. The wording you quote is 'to protect the installation'. The 20A fuse would protect 'the installation'. Maybe an email to Shoreline?

tony

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1 minute ago, ditchcrawler said:

This is the bit that surprised me. the low voltage cut out and in values

 

volts.JPG

The Waeco figures are :

 

For safety reasons the refrigerator is equipped with an electronic system to prevent the polarity being reversed. This protects the refrigerator against reversed polarity when connecting to a battery and against short circuiting. To protect the battery, the refrigerator switches off automatically if the voltage is insufficient.

12 V

Cut-off voltage 10.4 V

Cut-in voltage 11.7 V
 

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10 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

The Waeco figures are :

 

For safety reasons the refrigerator is equipped with an electronic system to prevent the polarity being reversed. This protects the refrigerator against reversed polarity when connecting to a battery and against short circuiting. To protect the battery, the refrigerator switches off automatically if the voltage is insufficient.

12 V

Cut-off voltage 10.4 V

Cut-in voltage 11.7 V
 

I was comparing them to the 24 volt ones  cut out at 22 volts and in at 24.4 volts which is what, over 50% SOC.

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11 hours ago, WotEver said:

Is it this? http://www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/admin/document_library/RRInstructions_BD35ONLY.v16_011211.pdf

if so, then that's a dumb requirement.

Yes, a 20A at the battery end of the cable and a 15A close to the fridge would work but Shoreline should really rethink that. 

You wouldn't get any discrimination between a 20A and 15A fuse. Both would blow under a fault condition. Failsafe but irritating.

Better to fuse the cable down to 15A if that is what is required for the fridge in my opinion.

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Just now, cuthound said:

Better to fuse the cable down to 15A if that is what is required for the fridge in my opinion.

But OP's problem was that a megafuse holder was the only thing that fits 10mm cable but the links start at 20A

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1 minute ago, WotEver said:

But OP's problem was that a megafuse holder was the only thing that fits 10mm cable but the links start at 20A

You can get reducing ferrules to crimp in the cable ends and which then fit smaller terminations, specifically to overcome this problem.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?client=tablet-android-samsung&ei=kdHUWITJJsSMgAacvZxA&q=cable+end+reducing+ferrules&oq=cable+end+reducing+ferrules&gs_l=mobile-gws-serp.3..35i39k1.4583.5280.0.6318.6.6.0.0.0.0.260.642.3j1j1.5.0....0...1c.1.64.mobile-gws-serp..1.5.638...30i10k1.KiicU7F-LAk#imgrc=9yoRrvazE5UCoM:

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