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Sealing windows while refitting


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As per subject.

My windows were leaking, and in some instances quite badly, so removed them prior to painting.

They had been sealed using small and an ineffective quantity of silicone sealant. Thankfully wasn't too difficult.

The surveyor commented not to use silicone claiming you would never get them out again (assuming I would need to?).

These do need to be sealed in one way or another. I have searched other threads here for some clues but the topics are on sealing windows that have already been fitted.

Can anyone suggest a method and suitable materials, or its going to be a thin bead of silicone again! In which case, what type of silicone?

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50 minutes ago, Mikexx said:

Can anyone suggest a method and suitable materials, or its going to be a thin bead of silicone again! In which case, what type of silicone?

Leak from around window frame - removed window, cleaned area and then used an exterior grade of 'waterproof' silicon.

No further leaks.

Put plenty on, squash / screw the frames in remove excess silicon leaving a small 'ramp' from the steelwork to the window frame. A finger tip, or back of a teaspoon gives a good 'ramp'.

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7 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Leak from around window frame - removed window, cleaned area and then used an exterior grade of 'waterproof' silicon.

No further leaks.

Put plenty on, squash / screw the frames in remove excess silicon leaving a small 'ramp' from the steelwork to the window frame. A finger tip, or back of a teaspoon gives a good 'ramp'.

You can also do the above using Sikaflex, but be aware it's a hard job to remove them later should you need to, so an option if you don't intend to take them out again.

Creeping Crack Cure is also useful for in situ wins,  and small leaks. You just apply it sparingly around the frame, it's very liquid and finds its way in to any gaps and then solidifies to a rubbery texture stopping water ingress.

 

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We use 3M sealing tape every time.

Hate silicone, bugger to get off completely and affects the paint if you don't. 

Best way is to tap the holes and use stainless steel or brass bolts to bring the window tight against the surround. 

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2 minutes ago, matty40s said:

We use 3M sealing tape every time.

Hate silicone, bugger to get off completely and affects the paint if you don't. 

Best way is to tap the holes and use stainless steel or brass bolts to bring the window tight against the surround. 

Just curious, I have heard tape compresses and then leaks, I take it you haven't had this problem? How long has the tape been in place?

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The best stuff I have ever used for either windows temporary gaskets, at anything else that needs to be water tight or air tight as well as what it is intended for is tack tape or bagging tape, I always have a couple of rolls too hand and it last for years if stored properly. you will be able to remove the window at a later date if required as it stays sticky and flexible.

 http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/vacuum-equipment-and-supplies/vacuum-bagging-consumables/vacuum-bagging-gum-tape.html

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I used the neoprene tape, no leaks for 18 months.

 

Just as an aside, I used the same tape, only wider, to seal the weed hatch, no leaks there also for 18 months.

Kevin

Edited by Kev's Halcyon
I must learn to spell!!!
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1 hour ago, Meanderingviking said:

Just curious, I have heard tape compresses and then leaks, I take it you haven't had this problem? How long has the tape been in place?

No leaks on the last 4 years boat paints I have been involved with I use it on my own windows and weedhatch as well.

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1 hour ago, matty40s said:

We use 3M sealing tape every time.

Hate silicone, bugger to get off completely and affects the paint if you don't. 

Best way is to tap the holes and use stainless steel or brass bolts to bring the window tight against the surround. 

^^^^ this :)

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Always used window tape and never had a problem.  Seen windows destroyed when attempts to remove them after they had been fitted with Sikaflex.

Note:  Weedhatch tape, as well as being wider, is thicker as well.

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Silicone seems to last about 10 years in this situation.  After that if you remove the window you will typically find a silocone "gasket" bonded to the window, but not to the cabin-side,. (I don't sunscribe to the "hard to get out" theory - well at least not after 10 years because in my experience once you remove the screws, you need to be careful they don't just fall out.

I would advise against using it on a boat you intend to keep.

My preference is an Evostick product called Glasticord, which is kind of "putty on a roll", (except its nothing like putty actually).  The biggest problem with Glasticord seems to be finding somewhere prepared to sell it in small enough quantities.

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22 hours ago, matty40s said:

We use 3M sealing tape every time.

Hate silicone, bugger to get off completely and affects the paint if you don't. 

Best way is to tap the holes and use stainless steel or brass bolts to bring the window tight against the surround. 

 

Agreed about silicone, the 3M sealing tape seems quite popular.

Is there a specific type/size you would recommend for windows?

Edited by Mikexx
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21 hours ago, Kev's Halcyon said:

I used the neoprene tape, no leaks for 18 months.

Just as an aside, I used the same tape, only wider, to seal the weed hatch, no leaks there also for 18 months.

When you say neoprene tape, is the the 3M tape mentioned earlier?

Where's the best source for this?

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21 minutes ago, Mikexx said:

 

Agreed about silicone, the 3M sealing tape seems quite popular.

Is there a specific type/size you would recommend for windows?

This will depend on the width of the flange surround which varies from manufacturer. The tape ideally needs to cover from the outside edge of the frame, all holes, and butt up to the metal of the window inner.

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5 hours ago, Mikexx said:

When you say neoprene tape, is the the 3M tape mentioned earlier?

Where's the best source for this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neoprene-sponge-Foam-Tape-self-adhesive-backed-10m-x-10mm-Wide-x-6mm-Thick-/252791733178?hash=item3adb8fbbba:g:qUAAAOSwT~9WlsgV

 

Got my last lot from Ebay, came across it first at a boat jumble, but only bought enough for the weed hatch, somebody on here mentioned about using it on windows.

Kevin

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31 minutes ago, jddevel said:

Reference the "Creeping Crack Cure " any one know has it a shelf life either unopened or if tightly sealed after use. Interested as for what seems a little cost may well be worth "keeping in stock"

I've used some that was several years old - seemed fine to me. 

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On 19/03/2017 at 15:52, Kev's Halcyon said:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neoprene-sponge-Foam-Tape-self-adhesive-backed-10m-x-10mm-Wide-x-6mm-Thick-/252791733178?hash=item3adb8fbbba:g:qUAAAOSwT~9WlsgV

 

Got my last lot from Ebay, came across it first at a boat jumble, but only bought enough for the weed hatch, somebody on here mentioned about using it on windows.

Kevin

 

Thanks for the link.

6mm sounds quite thick.

How easily does it compress?

 

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When i fitted a set of windows on a cruiser many years ago i used something like this

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Faithfull-Black-Moisture-Proof-Seal-Silicone-Tape-25mm-x-3m-/401193509917?hash=item5d68ff241d:g:olYAAOSwfVpYtse2

 

 

Just cant remember the exact stuff now .  Tacky both side but comes apart if ever needed.

 

 

Also found this, interesting as it swells to fill gaps but could be a bit thick at 8mm. May do thinner stuff.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Technibond-Hannoband-BG1-Swelling-Window-Sealing-Tape-Roll-8-15mm-X-20mm-X-3-3m-/262875108581?hash=item3d3493d4e5:g:b0cAAOSwLEtYjkew

Edited by W+T
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Just now, W+T said:

I doubt that was the stuff Wayne. That's self amalgamating tape and would be useless for sealing windows. 

 

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7 hours ago, Mikexx said:

 

Thanks for the link.

6mm sounds quite thick.

How easily does it compress?

 

real easy, in used it not long ago.

copied from my build thread, cant remember how thick the Neoprene was though. i will check tonight for you if i remember.

 

 

Now once all the frames were done i had to get the seals ready, this was to bo neoprene strip fitted with water proof 2k contact adhesive on the frame, then silicone from there to the cabin aperture to fill any imperfections, the silicone i used is a type that will come apart easy if ever the frames need to be removed. lets hope not.

 

PSTLf3b.jpg

 

All set in place and sealed and drying, i was wondering this mornig if we could get ant done with the weather but it turned out a great day.

 

wK2YRgt.jpg

 

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RPMBqrU.jpg

 

So another trhee to go, one still has to be cleaned and resealed but hope all will be done this week, weather and sanity permitting.Have to say i ma chuffed with the out come, they have taken some doing as a few on the frame brackets broke as they are ally as the frames and a slight bend when pulling the frames apart they snap so i have to make new ones.Not a big job but one more we don t want.

 

Still not come by any front windows so once these side one are fitted i will gaffer up the front to get water tight so the bulkhead can be done along with floor.

 

Feels good to have one window fitted :))))

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18 hours ago, W+T said:

real easy, in used it not long ago.

copied from my build thread, cant remember how thick the Neoprene was though. i will check tonight for you if i remember.

Now once all the frames were done i had to get the seals ready, this was to bo neoprene strip fitted with water proof 2k contact adhesive on the frame, then silicone from there to the cabin aperture to fill any imperfections, the silicone i used is a type that will come apart easy if ever the frames need to be removed. lets hope not.

Thanks for all the info. What type of silicone did you use?

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