Control (instrument) Panel

[Mohsen]

Hello ladies and gents

 

I'm fitting out a WB and I was just curious as to what sensors, gadgets and gauges everyone has or wishes that did have on their main control panel?

 

I'm thinking a kill switch for all the lights and one for all the plugs (except the kitchen ring), so that I can kill the power easily when exiting the boat would be handy.

 

Any ideas welcome?

[cuthound]

The following should cover it.

 

Engine water temperature gauge,

 

Engine oil pressure gauge,

 

Tachometer (rev counter), including engine run hours,

 

Voltmeter for starter battery,

 

Voltmeter for domestic battery,

 

Victron BMV700 battery monitor or similar https://www.victronenergy.com/battery-monitors/bmv-700

 

Smartgauge,

 

Water tank level gauge,

 

Waste tank level gauge (if pump out toilet is to be fitted).

 

You should have battery isolators, they can be used to isolate the batteries, but check the specification, to see what load they can isolate without damage.

[Scholar Gypsy]

Other ideas:

 

• horn
• headlight
• bilge pump
• navigation lights (port/stbd, stern, masthead)
• bow thruster
• depth sounder
• something to tell you if the inverter is on and/or mains circuit is live
• VHF radio
• intercom / tannoy system for talking to the other end.

I think there's a bit of a compromise to be struck between things you need to see/access while steering, and things that you would like near at hand inside the cabin, and in the dry. My point is that quite a few bits of electronics don't like being outside in the rain. For example I don't think the smartgauge is weather proof, while a decent depth sounder will be...

[Mohsen]

I assume your talking about the internal controls cuthound, whilst scholar is talking about an external panel accessible whilst navigating.

 

All good ideas thanks, any others welcome...

 

Anything more unusual or often on thought of

[mross]

A remote battery isolator switch would be easier to waterproof and save long cable runs.

 

Oil pressure and water temperature klaxons are more useful than gauges.

 

A data bus to future-proof the boat.

 

Text-enabled intruder alarm.

 

Load hailer for insulting idiots. Mic aft, speaker forward.

 

Hot-air blower for feet.

[David Mack]

A remote battery isolator switch would be easier to waterproof and save long cable runs.

 

Oil pressure and water temperature klaxons are more useful than gauges.

 

A data bus to future-proof the boat.

 

Text-enabled intruder alarm.

 

Load hailer for insulting idiots. Mic aft, speaker forward.

 

Hot-air blower for feet.

 

Not needed on a trad stern with back cabin range right next to the step!

[mross]

But I get warm air on my feet without lighting the stove!

[Ex Brummie]

And you need a seat like the Star Ship Enterprise to turn to see the extremities of your new panel, and a forward lookout to see what you can't whilst perusing all that information.

Whilst cruising all you need is Rev counter, ammeter/battery meter, oil and temp gauge, and tunnel light and horn switch. All the other goodies can be kept nice and dry on an internal panel, alongside the electrical isolators.

[Bewildered]

A clock that shows the opening hours of the next pub in your direction of travel

A 12 volt socket for phone charging but with a high enough rated fuse that you can use it for a hand held halogen spot lamp for use in tunnels etc.

[David Mack]

Whilst cruising all you need is Rev counter, ammeter/battery meter, oil and temp gauge, and tunnel light and horn switch. All the other goodies can be kept nice and dry on an internal panel, alongside the electrical isolators.

Why do you need a rev counter? The mark one eyeball and mark one ear are more than good enough to tell you whether you are travelling at an appropriate speed.

[nbfiresprite]

Panel meter displaying 'AC Voltage, Amps, Watts, Kilowatt hours', Last one is very usefull if you don;t have access to your shoreline meter,

[mross]

A clock that shows the opening hours of the next pub in your direction of travel

A 12 volt socket for phone charging but with a high enough rated fuse that you can use it for a hand held halogen spot lamp for use in tunnels etc.

A 2.1A USB socket might be better for modern smartphones.

[Flyboy]

Why do you need a rev counter? The mark one eyeball and mark one ear are more than good enough to tell you whether you are travelling at an appropriate speed.

You don't, but as most rev counters contain an hours meter it is most useful.

[mross]

A cup holder or small table with upstands to stop yer butty sliding off.

 

Padded seat to prevent numbum.

[system 4-50]

Definitely a clock for tunnels to save taking your Iphone out of your pocket every 5 seconds while you wait.

[mross]

What use is an hour counter while the engine is running? I only look at mine when doing engine maintenance - it's next to the engine.

 

Likewise a Smartgauge - no use when engine is running so put it inside.

[Sea Dog]

What use is an hour counter while the engine is running? I only look at mine when doing engine maintenance - it's next to the engine.

 

Likewise a Smartgauge - no use when engine is running so put it inside.

I agree with the former, but not the latter. When I'm cruising one of the key bits of info I'm looking for is the battery state (in my case the charging current). Mind you, my panel is 'inside' my trad stern.

[mross]

I agree with the former, but not the latter. When I'm cruising one of the key bits of info I'm looking for is the battery state (in my case the charging current). Mind you, my panel is 'inside' my trad stern.

What do you look at? Most people say the SG will only give useful info when the battery is discharging?

[Sea Dog]

What do you look at? Most people say the SG will only give useful info when the battery is discharging?

I'm monitoring the charging current on a Victron battery monitor (so a generic 'smart gauge' rather than the proprietary Smartguage with a capital S). Although I don't have the Smartgauge itself, I think you may well be right about its usefulness during charging. Clearly the Smartguage makes a better job of assessing state-of-charge during discharge than the Victron, but you'll be familiar with how valuable a tail current reading is for assessing SOC when the engine's on. Since I do most of my charging when cruising, my battery monitor is on my control panel.

[mross]

Yes, I would like a battery monitor where I could see it when cruising. I'd like to see the amps drop off after a day's cruising.

[Scholar Gypsy]

Why do you need a rev counter? The mark one eyeball and mark one ear are more than good enough to tell you whether you are travelling at an appropriate speed.

 

I rather agree. Normal cruising speed used to be "just above the whine", so we have managed without a rev counter for 20 years or so.

 

However, I have recently cured the whine, and so the rev counter might be useful after all. Lo and behold, it seems to have decided to start working again. Very odd.

[Robbo]

Hello ladies and gents

I'm fitting out a WB and I was just curious as to what sensors, gadgets and gauges everyone has or wishes that did have on their main control panel?

I'm thinking a kill switch for all the lights and one for all the plugs (except the kitchen ring), so that I can kill the power easily when exiting the boat would be handy.

Any ideas welcome?

One of the advantages of using something like the Empirbus system is that all systems are now centralised and controlled via one system. So one switch can be programmed to turn off multiple items easily. However the system isn't cheap, but you can go old school and use the principal of having the loads separate from the switches. The loads are controlled by relays (SSR's) and the switches can then control these.

[Robbo]

A 2.1A USB socket might be better for modern smartphones.

I would use a normal 12v socket, USB-C will take over the USB sockets we have now got within the next 5 years or so.

[Mohsen]

One of the advantages of using something like the Empirbus system is that all systems are now centralised and controlled via one system. So one switch can be programmed to turn off multiple items easily. However the system isn't cheap, but you can go old school and use the principal of having the loads separate from the switches. The loads are controlled by relays (SSR's) and the switches can then control these.

Thanks for that Robbo, that system looks the dogs proverbials. Most of the info I managed to find regarding the Empirbus lead back to a thread you made in 2012. I assume you went for the NXT in the end, any regrets?

 

I have very limited electrical experience (just second fix domestic), I was intending to get someone like Loomtech to do the cabling. I assume they might run a mile from a system like this.

 

You seem to have a lot of experience. Would a system like this put me in a shit position if I had to find someone to resolve an issue?

 

Cheers

[Robbo]

I'm still fittting out. (I'm taking is easy!). I'm still debating if something like the Empirbus is worth the expense. There is the cheaper version CLC? which someone here has on there boat and is happy with. To me going with a NMEA2k backbone that the NXT has seems to be more logical.

 

However, I will be wiring the boat with all loads been singularly wired (each and every light even) to a central terminal block so future changes can easily be made.