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fridge next to oven


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With a modern fridge/freezer and oven and with their insulation levels although I realize not ideal will I get away with it in my galley design if they are next to each other. Actually the fridge would back on to the side of the gas cooker. Is it likely to make my fridge (12 volt or 240 volt with Victron inverter- jury is still out on this decision) work that much harder. This obviously affects my 12 volt or 240 volt decision as well as above.

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Without insulation between the two, I would say yes.

 

Can you squeeze something like a fire board between, maybe with a few mm air gap on each side also some ventilation?

 

I guess the rating of the fridge would also come into it, maybe fit the best rating?

Actually the more I think about it, you only use the oven for short periods, so even though the heat might make the fridge work a little harder, it wouldn't be for long....

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AS you can see from the picture - our oven is set to one side of the fridge, and at 'a height' above the fridge.

We have ventilation grills in the oven cupboard walls but the walls do get very warm (not dangerously hot, but a fair bit above 'warm to the touch'). The walls hold their heat for well over an hour after the oven is switched off.

 

You can see one of the grills just above the 'grab-handle' on the stairs. (the grab handle also gets very 'warm to the touch')

 

I would suggest that if putting an oven at the same level, and alongside a fridge you MUST have an insulating board and a reasonable air-gap. You could well overheat the fridge components otherwise.

 

post-11859-0-55354700-1484388329_thumb.jpg

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Mine are pretty much next to each other, although on an angle which leaves a wedge shaped clearance between them . Haven't had any issues

The oven isn't on for long and there is a plentiful supply of cold air from the bilge via a vent behind the fridge...

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With a modern fridge/freezer and oven and with their insulation levels although I realize not ideal will I get away with it in my galley design if they are next to each other. Actually the fridge would back on to the side of the gas cooker. Is it likely to make my fridge (12 volt or 240 volt with Victron inverter- jury is still out on this decision) work that much harder. This obviously affects my 12 volt or 240 volt decision as well as above.

I would add extra insulation to the fridge, no matter where the fridge is located or what voltage it is or what energy consumption rating it has.

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Be careful with putting insulation around a fridge, as more / many have condenser coils built into the sides of the case. Even if the coils are exposed on the back of the unit, they do need some air circulation to make them efficient.

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Be careful with putting insulation around a fridge, as more / many have condenser coils built into the sides of the case. Even if the coils are exposed on the back of the unit, they do need some air circulation to make them efficient.

It was once common for condenser coils to always be on the backs of fridges, If yours (the OP) is like this then I would suggest and stray warmth from the oven if you are backing the fridge up against the oven would have a bigger effect on efficiency than if they were stood side by side. Maybe the old trick of a couple of fans in holes in the floor blowing cold air up would help greatly.

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I used to own a share in an 'ownership' boat - Honeystreet - where the fridge was directly across the corridor from the solid fuel stove. The fridge door got quite hot, too hot to touch comfortably, but this didn't seem to affect the fridge performance noticeably.

 

I can't remember the model of fridge but it was certainly a 12 volt one.

 

Frank.

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Be careful with putting insulation around a fridge, as more / many have condenser coils built into the sides of the case. Even if the coils are exposed on the back of the unit, they do need some air circulation to make them efficient.

 

For efficiency, you need to cool the condenser coils, as if they work in a warm environment, the fridge will work harder as mentioned.

You might want to consider a small old 12 volt computer fan to bring air in via a cooler source. Maybe only during and for a short time after the oven has been used.

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For efficiency, you need to cool the condenser coils, as if they work in a warm environment, the fridge will work harder as mentioned.

You might want to consider a small old 12 volt computer fan to bring air in via a cooler source. Maybe only during and for a short time after the oven has been used.

It is common practice to fit one or more fans pulling from the bilge through a hole in the floor, wired to come on with the fridge compressor. Many 12V fridges are fitted with terminals to facilitate this.

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It is common practice to fit one or more fans pulling from the bilge through a hole in the floor, wired to come on with the fridge compressor. Many 12V fridges are fitted with terminals to facilitate this.

Good idea, help to keep the bilge fresh too. but not good if the bilge has grey water from the shower, spilt oil or fuel.

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Good idea, help to keep the bilge fresh too. but not good if the bilge has grey water from the shower, spilt oil or fuel.

Seeing as it shouldn't have any of those things in it I guess knowing sooner rather than later that it does would be a good thing :)

 

Maybe the old trick of a couple of fans in holes in the floor blowing cold air up would help greatly.

Yup.

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Always install 230-volt AC fridges

 

An AC fridge will be cheaper than than a DC fridge

 

Domestic type fridges will have significantly better insulation than the cheaper cabinets used for most 12-volt DC fridges

 

Keith

Complete nonsense, 12v fridges use the same cabinets as 240v fridges, the only difference is the compressor, Danfos 12v is the most usual and Danfos are considered to be the bench mark fridge compressor.

Phil

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Phil Ambrose, on 14 Jan 2017 - 5:36 PM, said:Phil Ambrose, on 14 Jan 2017 - 5:36 PM, said:

Complete nonsense, 12v fridges use the same cabinets as 240v fridges, the only difference is the compressor, Danfos 12v is the most usual and Danfos are considered to be the bench mark fridge compressor.

Phil

 

The devil is that quite often the convertor / manufacturer uses a cabinet that's not quite up to the mark by today's standards.

For example at hone I've just replaced a lovely old Bosch fridge freezer with a more modern Samsung unit - because it was very 'juicy'.

The comparison is shown by the graph below:-

 

post-10757-0-87423900-1484417977_thumb.jpg

 

Bosch on the left and Samsung on the right. The former was taking around 3 times the power. Translate that to a comparison of published figure for, say, a LEC and a Liebherr unit and you get similar results.

Edited by OldGoat
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I used to own a share in an 'ownership' boat - Honeystreet - where the fridge was directly across the corridor from the solid fuel stove. The fridge door got quite hot, too hot to touch comfortably, but this didn't seem to affect the fridge performance noticeably.

 

I can't remember the model of fridge but it was certainly a 12 volt one.

 

Frank.

 

Probably the same as the one in the Ownerships boat we had a piece of -- Wolverley.

 

Reverse layout but a fridge looking straight at the solid fuel stove. That always bothered me because it just seemed "wrong".

Complete nonsense, 12v fridges use the same cabinets as 240v fridges, the only difference is the compressor, Danfos 12v is the most usual and Danfos are considered to be the bench mark fridge compressor.

Phil

 

Thank you Phil. I couldn't see any reason why a boat fridge would have an inferior cabinet. There is such a tiny market that it would be more expensive to change the production line than to use the same bits as the standard ones!

Edited by Machpoint005
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It is common practice to fit one or more fans pulling from the bilge through a hole in the floor, wired to come on with the fridge compressor. Many 12V fridges are fitted with terminals to facilitate this.

Yes I do this, but also it is wired through an old room-thermostat which is fixed to the wall behind the fridge so it only comes on when the temperature there exceeds 25 degrees. Interestingly it always comes on (with the compressor) when the oven is in use; the oven is beside the fridge with a thick board between them.

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Yes I do this, but also it is wired through an old room-thermostat which is fixed to the wall behind the fridge so it only comes on when the temperature there exceeds 25 degrees. Interestingly it always comes on (with the compressor) when the oven is in use; the oven is beside the fridge with a thick board between them.

I guess this post more than any other clearly demonstrates the answer to the OP's question :)

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Probably the same as the one in the Ownerships boat we had a piece of -- Wolverley.

 

Reverse layout but a fridge looking straight at the solid fuel stove. That always bothered me because it just seemed "wrong".

 

Thank you Phil. I couldn't see any reason why a boat fridge would have an inferior cabinet. There is such a tiny market that it would be more expensive to change the production line than to use the same bits as the standard ones!

But I think you will find they use the bottom end of the market cabinets, They look just like my £100 LEC

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Well so the answer seems to be 12 volt fridge with at least additional cooling fan although because we will very likely have a Victron 3000 pure sine wave -as a anticipated leisure cruiser prefer to cruise and wash rather than take it home or spend time in a marina etc. launderette- still mulling 12 volt or 240 volt. Everyone has their view but its location next to the oven has helped considerably. Thank you.

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