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Timing chain and tensioner for 1.5D


Mikexx

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I'm very tempted to change the timing chain of my engine as I have no idea of when it was last changed.

 

I note ASAP do the parts individually and so naturally it works out rather expensive.

 

From what I have seen the parts look identical to the B-series petrol engine timing chain kit that is somewhat more affordable.

 

Is this the case?

 

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I have a BMC parts book for the 1500 and 1622 cc petrol engines plus 1.5 diesel . The BMC part numbers were different for the petrol than the diesel . Not sure about 1800 petrol as in the MGB. In case you are interested the petrol part numbers were timing chain 2H 4905 ,tensioner 17H 343. Diesel timing chain 2H 735 tensioner 2H 735.

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Do they fail? I,ve never heard of them going (unlike the rubber band that my car engine depends on) On 'Car SOS' Fuzz changed a belt on a car and did something I've never thought of. On the old belt run a Stanley knife around the belt to roughly halve the width and then remove one half, leaving a skinny bit of belt then push the new belt over the wheels, once it is on then cut the remains of the old belt off thus preserving the timing. To change the tensioner just use cable ties to keep the belt on the wheels and simply replace the tensioner. Well it looked easy when he did it anyway.

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Do they fail? I,ve never heard of them going (unlike the rubber band that my car engine depends on) On 'Car SOS' Fuzz changed a belt on a car and did something I've never thought of. On the old belt run a Stanley knife around the belt to roughly halve the width and then remove one half, leaving a skinny bit of belt then push the new belt over the wheels, once it is on then cut the remains of the old belt off thus preserving the timing. To change the tensioner just use cable ties to keep the belt on the wheels and simply replace the tensioner. Well it looked easy when he did it anyway.

 

I like Fuzz, he seems to be a very good and practical guy, an ace mechanic who knows what he's doing.

 

Peter.

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Do they fail? I,ve never heard of them going (unlike the rubber band that my car engine depends on) On 'Car SOS' Fuzz changed a belt on a car and did something I've never thought of. On the old belt run a Stanley knife around the belt to roughly halve the width and then remove one half, leaving a skinny bit of belt then push the new belt over the wheels, once it is on then cut the remains of the old belt off thus preserving the timing. To change the tensioner just use cable ties to keep the belt on the wheels and simply replace the tensioner. Well it looked easy when he did it anyway.

I have had a tensioner fail on a Vaxhall car and that caused a jam that damaged the sprocket, I think it was the one on the cam. It was also petrol not diesel.

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I had the timing chain fail on a petrol Vauxhall Zafira. Happened on the last evening of a holiday in France. Thanks goodness for AA european insurance cover.

Mine was Christmas eve on the M25. AA took us home to Suffolk and I gave him the Pheasant we were taking to Sister in Laws for Christmas.

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The 1.5 diesel has a duplex chain where as the B series petrol has a single chain. I suspect the body, spring and ratchety helix thing is probably the same on both but would expect the rubber slipper to be wider. Come to think of it the body may be wider as well but I have a faint memory of a spacer type plate between the body and engine front plate/block. Don't quote me on that though.

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The early 1.8 petrol engines ( 18G* ) used a duplex chain, the later ones (18V) used a simplex one. The tensioners are hydraulically operated. Petrol replacement kits include the correct tensioner and chain. You'll need a new gasket for the cover and ideally you'll change the crankshaft seal at the same time.

There's been some discussion on the classic forums about the quality of the tensioners. A Google search will give you the info.

 

On my 18V (late petrol) there is a spacer shim between the tensioner and block.

Edited by Chalky
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This is the set I was considering.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291030596932

 

It seems that duplex timing kits are quite common for the MGBs, such that the simplex and duplex kits are generally the same price.

 

I'm conscious that the crank sprocket in particular wears and wondering if, for another £20 or so, I should get the kit that includes both sprockets?

 

Many thanks for the replies.

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There are 2 cam timings for the MGB, the simplex and duplex being 4 degrees different. The effect is to move the power band by a few 100 rpm. Whether these are common with the diesel is something you'd have to investigate. if there is any commonality I would suspect that the crank sprocket may be common but the cam one would be different. The chain and tensioner will probably be common.

Edited by Chalky
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If you can hear the chain rattling, often accompanied by erratic idle don't ignore it. It wasn't that uncommon for Reynolds tensioners to fall to bits when the slipper shoe wears out completely and with extra slack in the chain dues to wear the slipper shoe can and have popped out of their holder, jamming up and busting the works big time.

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There are 2 cam timings for the MGB, the simplex and duplex being 4 degrees different. The effect is to move the power band by a few 100 rpm. Whether these are common with the diesel is something you'd have to investigate. if there is any commonality I would suspect that the crank sprocket may be common but the cam one would be different. The chain and tensioner will probably be common.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I wasn't aware there might be a difference in timing. Since its the crankshaft sprocket I would expect to be more worn, I hope you're right!!

 

Sadly even ASAP Supplies don't do the sprockets :-(

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Try the MG specialists. I usually use the MGB hive. They carry the parts for the petrol engine as stock.

I bought the two sprockets, chain, tensioner, seal, gasket and lock tabs from them for my car.

Edited by Chalky
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Try the MG specialists. I usually use the MGB hive. They carry the parts for the petrol engine as stock.

I bought the two sprockets, chain, tensioner, seal, gasket and lock tabs from them for my car.

 

I had a look on their website:

http://mgbhive.co.uk/

 

and after a search on their website I can see their MGB Duplex Timing Gear Kit.

 

It's the same company and kit I saw on eBay except their postage is half price on eBay!

 

As you imply not all kits come with the prerequisite locking tabs.

I have just read on a blog this happening on another Zafira, that's 3 Vauxhalls

 

Are these engines the same as the old 1.7d which had pressed steel rockers that bent before any serious mishap?

 

I know of one that bent all by itself during the MOT acceleration test.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I received the timing kit from eBay - mgbhiveltd

 

I placed the parts over the old timing sprockets and they lined up well. Obviously this is by eye but with shining a torch down the woodruff key and making sure this reference was in line. Of course that could mean the wrong kit was fitted last time!

 

I think the old chain was stretched given the position of the tensioner, but perhaps a better indication of age was the broken spring within the tensioner. The old sprockets looked in good condition and perhaps I could have re-used these.

 

However, in pulling the crank pulley off with a puller, I took out two major chips from the pulley groove. :-( The chips have that brittle look.

It is the MGB variety, ie a nominal 5" one, not the larger diameter one you often see.

 

Other bad news is that the cause of the slight leak at the thermostat housing was that someone had previously sheared one of the studs! The nut and what was left of the stud was mastic-ed in position!

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attachicon.gifIMG_20161229_222305-sel.jpg

 

I wasn't happy with the mating surface of the thermostat housing so placed it in a lathe and refaced. I took best part of a mm off. It perhaps shows that corrosion inhibitor hasn't been a priority!

 

I still have to drill out the sheared stud!

I'm sure you've thought of this but best to make sure the 'stat sits properly in the housing, might be best to deepen the recess for it by 1mm.

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I'm sure you've thought of this but best to make sure the 'stat sits properly in the housing, might be best to deepen the recess for it by 1mm.

 

Yes, the recess for the thermostat is in the housing. I will check for clearance when I fit it. The gasket will also add to this clearance.

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