Alde aluminium convector

[Jrtm]

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=alde+aluminium+convector+review&biw=360&bih=512&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjAqov6tb_QAhUaM8AKHXDvAkA4ChD8BQgGKAI#imgrc=DCQRduFurZNQrM%3A

 

Looking at putting 2 of these into my system under the floor in the back cabin 1 each side of the prop with a shut off valve so i can turn them off if needs be in summer i also thought about fitting a small one in the engine room that cant be turned off as the pipes run threw here anyways.

 

Anyone got any reviews on them?

 

In some ways they seam very cheap in others a copper centre pipe with ally fins on ebay is around double the price but the fins look cheaper than these ones.

 

Once in they out the way so wont get marked or hit or anything unless the floor is up which isnt very often but with a shit off valve could be removed easly.

 

At the mo my pipes just heat the hot water and gets very hot if anything too hot as there isnt much to draw the heat unless were using the hot water.

[Chewbacka]

This quote from Alde may change your mind depending on your plumbing arrangements

"Please remember aluminium and copper plumbing must not be combined on the same heating circuit."

Copper and ally in the same circuit is high risk for galvanic corrosion.

http://www.alde.co.uk/itemdetails.php?itemId=29

Edited November 23, 2016 by Chewbacka

[Jrtm]

Yes i was under the impression that was ally and copper directly conected?

 

As my plumming pipes are plastic im guessing my hot water tank is copper and steel.

 

Other option was to use this sort

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Finned-convector-skirting-board-radiator-Finrad-1-5m-L-x-22mm-tube-dia-FIN150-/181697629654

 

Vertually the same just with copper pipe.

 

Only 3 times the cost

Edited November 23, 2016 by billybobbooth

[zenataomm]

You obviously haven't got vegetable bottoms in your boat.

[Jrtm]

No its made of antique carbon

[Chewbacka]

Yes i was under the impression that was ally and copper directly conected?

 

As my plumming pipes are plastic im guessing my hot water tank is copper and steel.

 

Other option was to use this sort

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Finned-convector-skirting-board-radiator-Finrad-1-5m-L-x-22mm-tube-dia-FIN150-/181697629654

 

Vertually the same just with copper pipe.

 

Only 3 times the cost

Rather than directly connected but directly electrically connected, so if the copper and ally parts are electrically connected - for example via the hull then unless you use a non conducting fluid rather than water you are heading for trouble. Of course the further apart they are - so longer path length along the water in the plastic pipe the better it is. Also using corrosion inhibitors in your circulating fluid (coolant) will help. So unless you are very confident they are not electrically connected then for me it's not worth the risk.

 

By electrically connected I don't mean part of your electrical system, just that there is a low resistance circuit between them.

[Jrtm]

Rather than directly connected but directly electrically connected, so if the copper and ally parts are electrically connected - for example via the hull then unless you use a non conducting fluid rather than water you are heading for trouble. Of course the further apart they are - so longer path length along the water in the plastic pipe the better it is. Also using corrosion inhibitors in your circulating fluid (coolant) will help. So unless you are very confident they are not electrically connected then for me it's not worth the risk.

 

By electrically connected I don't mean part of your electrical system, just that there is a low resistance circuit between them.

I have a wooden hull!!??

So unless the electric in the water can be both + & - at the same time there is no electric current in any of the system except at the water pumps.

I have a house central heating magnet thing to go into the system the same as we have in our house system.

The only 3 places there are any metal is the heater, the hot water tank (calorifier??) And the other would be the heater i want to add.

Edited November 23, 2016 by billybobbooth

[Jrtm]

My plan was to run the pipe from the heater threw the new rads and then to the water tank and back to the heater with a filter just before it goes back into the heater and a bypass at the rad. There is also a level bottle pipe too.

[Jrtm]

I dont mind getting the more expencive ones but i couldnt find and others anywhere except these 2 all the others are around £260-£500 and i ant spending that on 2 rads youll never see. Let aloan in the summer use just means i can warm the cabin without lighting the fire for a few hours a day + i can then set a timer or temp level and it will keep the cabin at that level.

[Chewbacka]

I have a wooden hull!!??

So unless the electric in the water can be both + & - at the same time there is no electric current in any of the system except at the water pumps.

I have a house central heating magnet thing to go into the system the same as we have in our house system.

The only 3 places there are any metal is the heater, the hot water tank (calorifier??) And the other would be the heater i want to add.

In which case I would phone Alde technical dept and explain your installation for their assessment of your risk.

[Jrtm]

This is a good idea will do this

[Jrtm]

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/152326572654?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

 

Did find this but wasnt sure about the pipe fitting but is brass or more likly copper with finned alloy looks far better quality.

 

Its 1/2 bsp so 15mm the rest of my system is 22mm but shouldnt be a problem should it as can put a 15mm-22mm adapeter on only thing is would 15-22 restrict the system too much?

Edited November 24, 2016 by billybobbooth

[Chewbacka]

Looks good, I wonder what the watts per meter is?

[Jrtm]

My current setup.

[Jrtm]

Ok as you see i have a single piped filler tank but it can be made to have a twin would just need another pipe fitting and the bottom cut off.

 

Its all 22mm pipe except for any conections that at 15mm even the bleed off is a 15mm fitting.

 

I was thinking of adding 2 700-900mm rads under the floor a 300mm one in the engine room and pos fitting 2 in the hold again 700mm ones all that can be shut off indervidualy my only issue is this

 

When you look at the plumming manual it shows all the piping 22mm and then 15 to each application this is ok but it shows each application as just t-ed off the 22mm piping surly the water will just flow to the first application and hit a resistance where it goes to 15mm and keep doing this till eather the pump pressure drops so low it cant pump it or the water will only flow to the shorts pipes?

 

I thought it was ment to go from one appliance to another directly unless you wanted to bypass that the just put a loop in with a shut off valve at the loop and at the appliance?

 

Or have i missed something?

 

Im current system isnt very helpfull as it just runs hot water so only 1 thing it runs to.

[Mike Jordan]

Am I right in thinking that Alde formerly sold finned pipe with a copper pipe through the middle? I wouldn't dispute the corrosion claims but I feel sure that I have used the copper type in the past.

[Jrtm]

I dont know they only seam to list an ally one and i cant find and alde ones with copper in.

 

They even list them in some places as webasto heating on a camping and caravan site.

At the price of the round ones with a 15mm conection with copper im tempted to just get these as my hot water tank is a copper piped one. But at the same time none of my system metal parts are only connected by the water thats conductive as its a wood hull and plastic pipe.

I just wanted peoples advice as alot more people on here run hot water and heating from these type of heaters as ive only got hot water but its not the best practice to only run the hot water as after 10 mins my hot water is very hot and the heater goes onto idle alot.

[Jrtm]

 

This is effectively what im looking at doing except going threw the hot water first so if shower is used it keeps this hottest first. With a bypass valve at the rad to isolate it if its summer or for fast heating up the hot water as i now have. And add a permanent rad in engine room just before the water goes back into the cold side of the heater.

This was taken directly from a webasto dealer but my book says not to put the calorifier in series.

 

But mine is in series and this dealer image shows in in series.

So im totally confused

Edited November 25, 2016 by billybobbooth

[Jrtm]

Right quick update went with the brass round tube rads off ebay as these looked better built, only pain was them coming with a female 1/2 conector but ive got a way around this so no too bad. + there quite small around 1 1/2 width total but there very neet and well built and the ally fins are good and strong the square ones were very flimsy fins but were bigger. But the smallness helps me with the tight spaces there going into.

 

Its just how to install them now

I have 3 rads 2 700mm length for back cabin and a 400mm one for engine room.

 

My current system is just a loop goes from heater on 22mm pipe to the calorifier changes to 15mm then comes out back to 22mm and back to heater.

 

Some dealer sites say you can run it all from 1 loop e.g. heater - calorifier - engine room rad - back cabin rads - heater

 

The manual says to run a 22mm loop going from heater to heater and off this run 15mm pipe to each item

 

Again my question if you run the latter how do you force the water to go threw the item on the smaller pipe than the water just wanting to stay in the 22mm loop if its a case of using shut off valves to restrict the 22mm pipe to say a 10mm? then unless i need to divert from an item i might as well just run the system threw each item without a bypass pipe.

 

I realise it may heat the entire system up at the same time using a loop with valves in rather than heating 1 item up quicker than the others but this is ok with me as im only adding the rads to 1. Help warm the cabin when fire isnt lit 2. Put a bit more load on the heater as its always running idle as once its heated the hot water it has nothing elts to do. So adding rads vents some of the heat making the heater work more.

 

This was how i was thinking of putting the system

Heater 22mm pipe - 15mm calorifier 22mm - 15mm threw engine room rad 22mm - 22mm bypass loop with shut off valve 22mm - heater, at the bypass put a 15mm loop in with shut off valve - 2 rads - shut off valve 15mm - 22mm bypass loop

Reason for the loop is so i can shut off the rads if its hot summer day or ive got the stove running.

 

Will this work ok?

Edited December 3, 2016 by billybobbooth

[NMEA]

My current setup.

Whoever installed that Thermo Top either didn’t have access to the install instructions or blithely ignored them. It is mounted in the worst possible orientation and asking for air to be trapped in the heat exchanger. At some point it will happen and lead to an overheat.

[NMEA]

But mine is in series and this dealer image shows in in series.

So im totally confused

That's what happens when you rely on non marine dealers advice. I would completely ignore that diagram and refer to the Webasto official marine install manual (PM me an email if you want a copy) as that circuit is entirely in conflict with factory instructions. Probably OK for a camper with a single matrix and small calorifier but completely wrong for a larger marine or even motorhome install and you would never find such a diag on a marine dealer's site or Webasto marine section.

Edited December 3, 2016 by NMEA

[Jrtm]

So need to do as manual says and run a 22mm loop with run offs to 15mm.

 

Do you just t them off to 15mm or do you need valves to then alter the flow threw the 22mm pipes to restict it?

I cant tell you who installed it but there is no other space where you can put the calorifier as the hot water only runs into the hold and there is no space in engine room or back cabin for it. + im restricted by the hight of the deck and the waste water tank below to the right is the main water tank again cant be moved

You also need to take note that all the pics need rotating by 90 deg clockwise except the bottom pic

Edited December 3, 2016 by billybobbooth

[Jrtm]

So anyone able to tell me if i need valves on the 22mm to restict the flow so it goes threw the 15mm pipes or are they just t ed off with no valves? If im re installing it all might as well get it done correctly.

[ditchcrawler]

So anyone able to tell me if i need valves on the 22mm to restict the flow so it goes threw the 15mm pipes or are they just t ed off with no valves? If im re installing it all might as well get it done correctly.

I suggest you take up NMEAs offer and PM him

[Jrtm]

I suggest you take up NMEAs offer and PM him

I have a copy of the manual which is what he said to pm him about but it gives no indication if its just t joints or if you fit a valve in. As its its just ts the water wont run threw the 15mm it will just run threw the 22mm pipe as the system isnt pressurised.

 

All the manual shows is a 22mm loop with 15mm running off it.

 

If you have to restrict the 22mm i dont see why you cant run the main pipe threw the rads directly rather than via a 15mm spur.