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Swapping a water pump


Humblespud

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Most tanks have a valve to stop the water flowing.

 

Turn a tap on, and pump off to get rid of the pressure from the tap side before replacing.

 

If you don't have a valve on the tank side you could add one now, or one of those ball valves both sides of the pump so next time you need to replace you just isolate the pump.

 

I would do with out draining but expect a good few gallons to drain from tank if your doing so and it doesn't have a stop valve.

Edited by Robbo
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I'm going to be replacing my Shurflo water pump on 40ft nb, do I need to drain down first or can I do a quick swap and a bit of mopping up? In other words is the water pressure from the water tank likely to be too high? Thanks.

The water pressure at the pumps inlet pipe will depend on how much water is in the tank ie-head of water. Anyhow there should be a stop cock at the tanks outlet, if so turn it off. If there's no stop cock, take note of the connection at the pump, place a tray under the inlet connection and rags to soak up any spills. Have the necessary tools at hand to do the job. If the pipe leading from the tank to the pump is of a flexible hose type you can throttle it with a G clamp or Mole grips with a couple of pads either side of the hose between the clamps jaws. If not have a tapered bung ready to block the pipe off or get someone to just keep a finger over the pipes end whilst you do a quick change over. Your bound to spill a drop though. You could of course drain the tank before hand, via a tap if the old pump still works. Or pump the tank out and overboard with a separate pump beforehand.

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Lots of good advice already,but I would fit service valves as a matter of routine, then you can fit the new pump and service it any time.

Just a detail, check the type of pipe connectors on the new pump to make sure they are exactly the same as the old ones. They might be different and then you will have to fiddle about with pipes and adapters - and that could take ages.

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Or just take the fuse out, open a tap or two and just accept a bit of a puddle, get a fat thumbed friend to hold a thumb over the end of the pipe or hose if it all goes wrong and you have to go and get a spanner.

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Thanks guys, all good stuff, especially fitting shut off valves for future. Think I will drain down and do a nice calm and relaxed proper job, ha ha. Thanks again, Alan

Please check that you have a valve first and try that to make sure it works. Just think what will happen if the pump fails and you have 200 gallons of water running into the boat. If you don't then as others have said, fit one now while you have the chance as close to the tank as possible.

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If your pump is gravity fed from the tank and has no valve, I would fit one sharpish. This is imperative if you are leaving the boat in winter, as any freeze on the pump, ( and they are particularly susceptible to frost) could leave you with a burst inside the boat that will fill your bilges.

My water tank is top outlet, so if any burst or leak occurs, there is no head of water.

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If your pump is gravity fed from the tank and has no valve, I would fit one sharpish. This is imperative if you are leaving the boat in winter, as any freeze on the pump, ( and they are particularly susceptible to frost) could leave you with a burst inside the boat that will fill your bilges.

My water tank is top outlet, so if any burst or leak occurs, there is no head of water.

Are you sure it wont siphon out depending where the leak is, or is it all above tank level.

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