Two repair questions

[frahkn]

I want to fill some 3mm circular holes in the cabin sides (outside) and was wondering what to use.

 

Something like 'JB Weld' but hopefully not so messy, perhaps a putty rather than a liquid?

 

Any suggestions?

 

Also, my hatches (all 7 of them) are lined on the inside with cork tiles which have been there since I bought the boat. They are good at reducing condensation but are getting rather tatty and there is some rust underneath.

 

I plan to get them off and clean the hatches up but then replace the tiles with some 3mm plywood which I have.

 

Do you foresee any problems with this, what adhesive would you use?

 

Would it be sensible to use thin polystyrene sheet between the plywood and the steel?

 

Thanks.

 

Frank.

[Rick-n-Jo]

Milliput for the filling, two sticks of epoxy putty, have used it for filling a hole in an engine cylinder so plenty strong. As for the lining I will wait for others suggestions, I need to do a similar job around the back swim area to reduce condensation.

[WotEver]

As the hatches are rusting we must assume that it's damp there. 3mm plywood would last about a week.

 

If you can get it (and keep it) dry then you could consider plywood well sealed with West Epoxy.

 

Marineflex will glue it.

 

Tony

[bag 'o' bones]

Assuming the 3mm holes are tapped you could glue a suitable bolt in and grind it off flush.

 

A plastic bolt would be even easier. Trim it of with a Stanley blade. Plus it renders the hole reusable in the future.

[dor]

Inside my hatch there are two strips of 6mm ply sikaflexed to the inside of the hatch. This then has gaps filled with bubble wrap and a sheet of faced 6mm ply screwed to the ply strips. I have also fixed window tape round any exposed metal on the bits that the hatch slides on which stopped condensation there.

[bizzard]

Countersink the holes on the roof before filling with Milliput or whatever, this will ensure good adhesion and will sand flush afterwards. If you haven't a countersink bit then a buzz with a lager drill bit, like an 8 or 10mm will do it.

[Guest]

Countersink the holes on the roof before filling with Milliput or whatever, this will ensure good adhesion and will sand flush afterwards. If you haven't a countersink bit then a buzz with a lager drill bit, like an 8 or 10mm will do it.

I have done that with success on rear doors where hinges once were. Also done the one suggested elsewhere where a screw is tapped in, head ground off and filled over (JB Weld or similar; plastic Padding etc.) That worked well too.

[frahkn]

Inside my hatch there are two strips of 6mm ply sikaflexed to the inside of the hatch. This then has gaps filled with bubble wrap and a sheet of faced 6mm ply screwed to the ply strips. I have also fixed window tape round any exposed metal on the bits that the hatch slides on which stopped condensation there.

 

I don't have the clearance for even 6mm, let alone 12mm of ply.

 

I doubt that there is a major condensation problem, the cork tiles seem to have managed well until they started to fall to pieces.

 

Thanks for the help so far, any more would be welcome.

[WotEver]

Do your hatches have returns or are they just flat steel plates?

[frahkn]

Do your hatches have returns or are they just flat steel plates?

 

The rear hatch is the normal type with returns which fit under the slides. The cork tiles do not extend far enough to affect the slides but the clearance between the hatch 'lid' and the front coaming is only about 5mm.

 

The rest of the hatches each consist of two doors and a 'lid'. The doors are steel trays with wood inserts and are fine. The lids (3 rectangular and 3 semi-circular) are covered with cork tiles. Clearance is not so important here but must not compromise the locking mechanism.

[WotEver]

In that case I think I'd treat the ply with at least two coats of West Epoxy and glue them on with Marineflex.

 

Edited for fat fingers not helped by autocorrect.

Edited August 25, 2016 by WotEver

[frahkn]

In that case I think I'd treat the ply with at least two coats of West Epoxy and glue them on with Marineflex.

 

Edited for fat fingers not helped by autocorrect.

 

Thanks very much.

 

I assume you would miss out the polystyrene backing for the plywood?

 

Frank.

[WotEver]

 

Thanks very much.

 

I assume you would miss out the polystyrene backing for the plywood?

 

Frank.

 

It wouldn't hurt if you have the clearance. I'm unsure if you can stick polystyrene with Marineflex though - it might melt it.

[Guest]

 

It wouldn't hurt if you have the clearance. I'm unsure if you can stick polystyrene with Marineflex though - it might melt it.

Never actually tried it, but I once read that plenty of silicone sealant sticks polystyrene to steel very well.

[frahkn]

Never actually tried it, but I once read that plenty of silicone sealant sticks polystyrene to steel very well.

I've got half a tube of Marineflex somewhere so I'll try a little experiment first.

 

Thanks.

 

Frank.

[WotEver]

I've got half a tube of Marineflex somewhere so I'll try a little experiment first.

 

Thanks.

 

Frank.

Let us know!

 

Then we'll know for the future

[Murflynn]

forget the plywood and insulation.

 

just stick on a piece of carpet using Evostik Impact (contact glue).

[frahkn]

forget the plywood and insulation.

 

just stick on a piece of carpet using Evostik Impact (contact glue).

 

There is no carpet on the boat at the moment (the floor is quarry tiled).

 

There is not a square centimetre of carpet in my house either, we have a big, hairy dog.

 

Carpet on the ceiling would be simpler, I wouldn't have a problem keeping the dog off, but on balance I don't think I'm ready for an adventure with carpet.

 

Thanks anyway, probably ideal for someone else.

 

Frank.

[Murflynn]

sorry, didn't realise you were a complete carpetophobe; I hope I haven't offended you dear sir.

[frahkn]

sorry, didn't realise you were a complete carpetophobe; I hope I haven't offended you dear sir.

 

Not at all, you certainly have not offended me. In fact I'm not sure if I can remember when I was last offended - thick skin, me. While I'm on a roll I'll say that I don't think any of us has a right to not hear anything which offends them anyway.

 

No, I'm just not inclined to take on the work that the mix of a hairy dog and a carpet would involve.

 

Frank.

[Murflynn]

I don't think your hairy dog will roll about on the ceiling.

[frahkn]

Thought I would update this.

 

In the end I stuck with 3mm birch ply, primed, undercoated and given 3 coats of eggshell paint. I put 2mm polystyrene sheets on the backs.

 

These were glued into the hatch lids with Marineflex and, so far, have stayed in place and been condensation free even during last week's cold spell.

[Col_T]

Good on you for providing the update.

 

Thanks.