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Heavy duty pins/augers?


IainW

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We're 'pegging in' to a super-soft bank and boats don't slow down when they pass so we're constantly getting pulled out. Is there some kind of deeper/thicker/corkscrew-y type peg that will give a better purchase in the ground? We're not really allowed to put something more permanent in the ground so it would be useful if it still looked like we were pegging in but had something pretty beefy. I'm thinking along the lines of those screws that go into the ground that you can attach dogs to? Know what i mean???? Ta very much in advance...

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I have some lengths of scaffolding pole, 5' long, with a fitting on top to give a loop to pass a rope through.

 

I put them in with a sledgehammer, and use a bottle jack to get them out. They resist everything passing, including racing rowing boats, and floods on the river etc.

Edited by FadeToScarlet
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Us army marquee pegs. I have several of these - they are high quality and not expensive

 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=111110765283

 

You could use picket screws

.. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321768515296

 

If you have leave to remain perhaps proper screw in ground anchors from machine mart would work (expensive)

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I bought a couple of very large picket screw anchors from a bloke on ebay a few years ago. They are 4ft long corkscrews made of 3/4 inch steel with a 'spring' diameter of about 4 inches.

 

Originally used to anchor aircraft hangars down. A bit over the top for canal boats to be fair.

 

If you want something to screw in once and leave there then search ebay for screw in ground anchors

 

This sort of thing

 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=112021025686

 

Machine mart do them as well but slightly more expensive - possibly better quality :unsure:

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I've actually used those 'dog anchors' a couple of times recently but my rationale was to miss the stones that I always seem to hit with a conventional pin. They screw in quite easily (and come out again) although I'm not sure that the lightweight versions would resist a violent wash from passing boats in the circumstances the OP describes. But I was quite happy/secure for short-term mooring although as two of my three usual mooring points in a grassy bank.

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I use these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161506846917 Not been pulled out yet They do do longer ones. You will need a 7lb sledge to knock them in and get them out.

2 x Extra Huge Heavy Duty Tent, Gazebo, Marquee Pegs, Stakes 850mm x 25mm Steel £28.49 £9.99 postage.

 

 

I have some lengths of scaffolding pole, 5' long, with a fitting on top to give a loop to pass a rope through.

 

I put them in with a sledgehammer, and use a bottle jack to get them out. They resist everything passing, including racing rowing boats, and floods on the river etc.

We use a set of four 1"*3' (so 25x900mm) pins made up by out local black smiths for a fairly reasonable price. One is stainless and really nice, but the rest are mild steel with just a bit of black paint on the top foot and also fine if slightly softer so mushroom over a little. Just a bit of 8mm bar bent and welded on to make a loop.

 

Im hard ground one is enough, in soft ground I leave the first one sticking out 6inches, and arrange the lines to the boat to come from the bottom of the loop and hence bottom of the exposed pin, I then knock the second on in all but flush around 8-10inches behind it, and tie from the top of the first down to the second, so you get an amount of force multiplication. I typically then use our (quite long) centerline as a single spring down to the front or rear depending on lay of land, if very soft or a long way out from the bank I will use two springs.

 

This, with will hold basically anything, and is often used to moor the boat for 12 days between weekends, while not huge its 58ft 25ton boat and often 2ft out on the mud, which then comes in over the first week so the lines go fairly slack but still hold as the springs mean there is no sudden/concentrated force. Put them in with a hammer which is half way between a large lump hammer and a small sledge, use the rope to pull the, out with your legs and a straight back!

 

If it really is soft as a dog and you are there long term, then scaffold poles or even hardwood or fencing stakes are the way forwards.

 

 

 

Daniel

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If you can find an old prop shaft

 

Sometimes replaced due to being bent or otherwise damaged. Makes a good pin specially the stainless ones.

Rond anchors are very good as are a couple of lengths of, say, 2X2'' angle iron, pointed at one end and bashed in at a lean back angle with the V facing the boat.

I often use a rond anchor behind a normal pin as it helps stop the pin from moving. I bought 3 heavy duty rond anchors from streethay in the late 90s - they are proper ones not lightweight like so much gear nowadays.

 

More than once I have been moored using ronds and people have come to point out my pin is not hammered in but they did not know what ronds are.

 

Edit for typo

Edited by magnetman
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Below is an ordinary rond anchor. Problem is that when hammered close to the bend (necessary to drive into all but the softest ground) the little welded support bracket breaks off. Its better to weld in a solid steel support continuously welded.

 

I would be very tempted if I came across some 3/4 inch or preferably thicker steel plate to have someone cut out a similar shape in solid steel with a plasma cutter (incorporating the corner support as a solid part and perhaps a little knob to hammer onto. This would create the perfect rond anchor :)

post-1752-0-30389200-1469104075.jpeg

Edited by magnetman
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Below is an ordinary rond anchor. Problem is that when hammered close to the bend (necessary to drive into all but the softest ground) the little welded support bracket breaks off. Its better to weld in a solid steel support continuously welded.

 

I would be very tempted if I came across some 3/4 inch or preferably thicker steel plate to have someone cut out a similar shape in solid steel with a plasma cutter (incorporating the corner support as a solid part and perhaps a little knob to hammer onto. This would create the perfect rond anchor smile.png

That type are not really meant to be hammered in, just stamped in with your boot into soft ground, 'Norfolk Broads ronds'. The much heftier forged steel rond ground anchors can be hammered. Some folk get mixed up and buy a Wrong anchor instead of a Rond anchor. For lightweight cruisers a pair of ordinary gardenening forks trodden in are quite good too and if you don't saw the handle off can be used for they normal purpose of turning over the cabbage patch as well as also..

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Where can one find the proper wronds Bizzard? I had a large wrought iron one out years ago with the magnet but it was shockingly big a rather unwieldy.

 

Would be interested to know if anyone is selling the proper ones you refer to :)

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Rond anchors are very good as are a couple of lengths of, say, 2X2'' angle iron, pointed at one end and bashed in at a lean back angle with the V facing the boat.

From experience putting marquees up with the Scouts, I think you want it the other way around. If the point of the V is facing the boat, it will knife through the ground. If the open end is facing the boat, it can't do that, and holds much firmer.

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I saw something similar once which consisted of a straight piece of box section with an eye on one end. the other end had a piece of tube that you put your mooring pin through before driving it into the ground at a slight angle so that when the boat was moored to the eye the mooring rope and the box section were in a straight line. The idea being that the pin was held at right angles to the pull of the rope and the top end not dragged through the bank. I always intended to make a pair but the roundtuit is 14 years old now.

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