Front Crankshaft Oil Seal

[David Mutch]

If you decided to use an engine water pump I think it would be fine. I am not so sure that you have the surface area to cool the engine uder high powers but if it was OK on the Jabsco it should be OK with the engine pump.

 

Thanks Tony. It seems fine at high revs. If anything it seems to run cool (about 74 degrees, don't know if this is because it has a lower temp stat), however, I don't entirely trust my temp gauge!

[David Mutch]

Attempted the oil seal the other day, but I'm darned if I can loosen the crankshaft nut. Problem is I can't get a socket on the thing due to the 'unique' water pump setup. Any ideas? I was considering a large set of stilsons, but don't want to chew the nut up (any more than it already is!)

[Tony Brooks]

Just to be sure - you have taken the small bolt out of the locking plate?

 

Unless you have a large good quality adjustable spanner or a heavy duty open ended one I think stilsons would be the only way.

 

Make sure you get them firmly attached and the right way round, rest the handle on a engine bed, flick the starter with stop pulled out. Otherwise starter motor out, very large screwdriver or tyre lever between two ring gear teeth and resting on the starter hole, one person holds the screwdriver while the other uses the stilsons.

[David Mutch]

Just to be sure - you have taken the small bolt out of the locking plate?

 

Unless you have a large good quality adjustable spanner or a heavy duty open ended one I think stilsons would be the only way.

 

Make sure you get them firmly attached and the right way round, rest the handle on a engine bed, flick the starter with stop pulled out. Otherwise starter motor out, very large screwdriver or tyre lever between two ring gear teeth and resting on the starter hole, one person holds the screwdriver while the other uses the stilsons.

Thanks Tony. My adjustable is too small by about 2mm, and was thinking that a large stilson would be a good addition to the tool kit anyway, so might go with this option. Not sure the handle will reach anything solid enough for the job though, so may have to supplement the purchase with a scaffold pole or similar, I guess.

 

Edit - Yes, I have removed the bolts. I think that the plate may be causing extra friction due to corrosion/dirt. Will try cleaning it up a bit

Edited August 20, 2016 by David Mutch

[bizzard]

Thanks Tony. My adjustable is too small by about 2mm, and was thinking that a large stilson would be a good addition to the tool kit anyway, so might go with this option. Not sure the handle will reach anything solid enough for the job though, so may have to supplement the purchase with a scaffold pole or similar, I guess

Doing that would probably have broken an adjustable spanner, it gives them a hell of a whack. Large Stilsons are the best for doing that.

[David Mutch]

Doing that would probably have broken an adjustable spanner, it gives them a hell of a whack. Large Stilsons are the best for doing that.

Great. I may purchase some today in that case

[David Mutch]

Well, had another go at this today with my newly acquired 24" stilsons. I used a lot of liquid wrench, and as much force as I dared, but didn't budge a millimetre. They're not left hand thread or something are they? Not quite brave enough to try it on the starter today. Worried about breaking something if I need to apply more torque than I was by hand. The Stilson gripped great though, and with the addition of a rag, didn't leave a mark on the nut. Any further tips, or do I just need to man up and try the starter method?

[Mikexx]

They're not left hand thread or something are they?

 

The last one I undid was definitely a RH thread. I used a substantial 3/4" socket set to undo the nut and it wasn't too difficult.

 

I'm wondering how much force you placed on the stilsons? Would this be your bodyweight as in standing or much less? How are you locking the crankshaft?

[David Mutch]

 

The last one I undid was definitely a RH thread. I used a substantial 3/4" socket set to undo the nut and it wasn't too difficult.

 

I'm wondering how much force you placed on the stilsons? Would this be your bodyweight as in standing or much less? How are you locking the crankshaft?

Thanks. No possibility of using a socket here due to the water pump setup. I'd be happier standing on the thing if I could get a socket on it. As it is, I haven't quite gone as far as standing on it, but I wasn't far off. Just felt wrong with the stilsons. I realise a crankshaft ought to be able to handle a fair bit of torque, but I guess I'm just looking for reassurance that I'm not going to break anything if I go to town on it! Can't afford to have my engine out of action (or to replace a crankshaft,if I'm honest!)

 

Edit: I locked the crankshaft by getting a friend to jam a tooth on the flywheel. Held steady, no problem.

Edited August 29, 2016 by David Mutch

[Chalky]

The way I undo the crankshaft pulley bolt on my MGB (B series petrol) is this. Remove king lead so it won't start. Put socket (1 1/8") with breaker bar on to bolt and put breaker bar on to chassis leg. Crank engine. This always frees it off. Keep people out of the way whilst doing this since the socket and nut can sometimes fly off.

Edited August 29, 2016 by Chalky

[Tony Dunkley]

Thanks. No possibility of using a socket here due to the water pump setup. I'd be happier standing on the thing if I could get a socket on it. As it is, I haven't quite gone as far as standing on it, but I wasn't far off. Just felt wrong with the stilsons. I realise a crankshaft ought to be able to handle a fair bit of torque, but I guess I'm just looking for reassurance that I'm not going to break anything if I go to town on it! Can't afford to have my engine out of action (or to replace a crankshaft,if I'm honest!)

 

Edit: I locked the crankshaft by getting a friend to jam a tooth on the flywheel. Held steady, no problem.

 

At the risk of asking the obvious, . . . . you have removed the setscrew from the locking plate modification [photo in Post #1] that someone has made to the crank pulley bolt, . . . . haven't you ?

 

Don't be afraid of getting brutal with it if necessary. If you can manage to bust the crank in the process of getting the pulley bolt undone, then it would have been on the verge of failure anyway !

Edited August 29, 2016 by Tony Dunkley

[bizzard]

Once you have the stilsons settled firmly on the nut in the correct position for undoing an r/h threaded nut, hold the stilson handle about an inch away from the solid bearer which will be the undoing stop for the stilson handle and jab the starter. That inch clearance before the stilson handle strikes will give the nut a sudden whack which will almost certainly undo it, rather than having the stilson handle already resting on the bearer which might not deliver the required force. Make sure the engine stop is pulled out or whatever engine stop you have. And mind your hands.

Edited August 29, 2016 by bizzard

[David Mutch]

 

At the risk of asking the obvious, . . . . you have removed the setscrew from the locking plate modification [photo in Post #1] that someone has made to the crank pulley bolt, . . . . haven't you ?

 

Don't be afraid of getting brutal with it if necessary. If you can manage to bust the crank in the process of getting the pulley bolt undone, then it would have been on the verge of failure anyway !

Thanks. That's reassuring. Yes, I have removed the setscrews.

Once you have the stilsons settled firmly on the nut in the correct position for undoing an r/h threaded nut, hold the stilson handle about an inch away from the solid bearer which will be the undoing stop for the stilson handle and jab the starter. That inch clearance before the stilson handle strikes will give the nut a sudden whack which will almost certainly undo it, rather than having the stilson handle already resting on the bearer which might not deliver the required force. Make sure the engine stop is pulled out or whatever engine stop you have. And mind your hands.

Cheers. I will hopefully have grown a pair by next weekend, so I'll give it another go then! Edited August 29, 2016 by David Mutch

[David Mutch]

Well, I was a bit busy the next weekend...and for the past six months it seems! But I finally got around to doing this job today, and it all went like clockwork thanks to everyone's advice. Timing chain and tensioner look pretty much new, so that's one less job.

 

One more question. I did notice a small amount of scoring on the tube on the back of the crankshaft pulley, where it goes through the oil seal, as it was suggested I might. It's not deep. Hardly enough to feel with a finger nail. Just wondering if this is enough to be concerned about, or if I should forget about it unless the seal starts leaking again? Thanks again folks!

[Tony Brooks]

If its all reassembled then I would let it go and keep and eye on it.

 

If the pulley is yet to be fitted or if it leaks within a few months I would try to get the pulley in a lath and try polishing the score with emery paper followed by smaller and smaller grit sizes of wet and dry paper - possibly lubricated with oil. The idea is only to ensure there are no raised burs on the pulley. rather than trying to remove the groove.

 

If it that did not work and it was mine I think I would try a very thin shim on the crankshaft under the pulley so the eal runs on a different part of the shaft. However if you go too thick you might get belt problems later.

[David Mutch]

Thanks Tony. So far so good, but those are some helpful tips it it doesn't last.