oil change

[Timx]

I have seen different ways and advice on here, but does this seem the way to go, or is there a better way ? can u copy and paste this link-

 

-http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+to+change+oil+on+boat&&view=detail&mid=E58DBE322E1B83B8FA3CE58DBE322E1B83B8FA3C&rvsmid=755EF031718A929B3AD2755EF031718A929B3AD2&fsscr=0&FORM=VDFSRV

 

Not done it yet ,have been waiting on a strap wrench, so ,got oil, right cc but 10w40 instead of advised by manual,15w40,got filters, oil and diesel , done the air filter. Couldn't change oil, because sump pump was knackered, think previous owner had been using a external manual pump out of dipstick hole as there is a manual pump in the bay. So looks like it just unscrews and fit new pump. So I am good to go, any tips b4 I do it gratefully received. .

This should be in newby but too late now.

Thanks.

[roggie]

Warm up the engine so the oil flows easily, suck out the old oil and replace with new...check the dipstick for the right level. Screwing off the oil filter can be messy so have something to catch the oil. I've a brass pump on my bmc and place a old oil container with a action cut out for the old oil. Its fairly straight forward. Check out the TB-training website too.

[zenataomm]

I don't see how puncturing the spin off oil filter empties the contents of the sump.

[Paul C]

Seems a bit of a daft idea, messy and unnecessary. Funnily enough, keeping the filter intact, loosening it with the proper tool then turning it so the open end is at the top once its spun off isn't that messy. Also, removing most of the oil before removing the filter works well.

 

But the best technique I found was to ever so slightly loosen it with a proper tool first (so its then removeable by hand, but doesn't drip/leak yet), then enclose the filter in a food bag/similar, then spin it off by hand. I've done it this way and not spilt a drop of oil into the bilge, the filter and any oil remaining in the bag.

 

Even if you do spill a little during an oil change, its not that complicated to wipe the bilge clean with a few paper towels anyway......

[Guest]

Not sure what engine here, but if the filter is a horizontally mounted spin on, then a member on here (apologies can't remember who) gave an excellent tip for making filter removal less messy:

A short length of PVC house gutter with a stop end fitted at one end. Whilst loosening filter, the gutter is placed underneath and catches (most of) the oil and the filter. a few cloths underneath catch the rest. Works great for me.

[captain birdseye]

I always put an oil absorbing mat on the engine room floor before starting that way if any spills when I remove the filter or I accidently drip oil on the floor when pumping out the sump it lands on the mat and is soaked up,

Edited June 21, 2016 by captain birdseye

[Timx]

Right so its not the way to do it, thanks will go the more conventional route as mentioned in your replies, thanks.

[cuthound]

I agree with all of the above. When using a poly bag around the filater (after it has been slightly loosened by a strap wrench), make sure the bag isn't one of those with "safety ventilation" holes in it. Don't ask how I found this out!

 

Also as Captain Birdseye says, put an oil absorbant mat under the engine (and another under the gearbox) and leave them there until the next oil change. They make spotting the source of an oil leak much easier and help keep the bilge clean.

 

Edited to put in a missing letter.

Edited June 21, 2016 by cuthound

[Timx]

I will thanks again.

[Top cat]

Seems a bit of a daft idea, messy and unnecessary. Funnily enough, keeping the filter intact, loosening it with the proper tool then turning it so the open end is at the top once its spun off isn't that messy. Also, removing most of the oil before removing the filter works well.

 

But the best technique I found was to ever so slightly loosen it with a proper tool first (so its then removeable by hand, but doesn't drip/leak yet), then enclose the filter in a food bag/similar, then spin it off by hand. I've done it this way and not spilt a drop of oil into the bilge, the filter and any oil remaining in the bag.

 

Even if you do spill a little during an oil change, its not that complicated to wipe the bilge clean with a few paper towels anyway......

The bag is a great idea thanks, have a greenie

 

T C

[the barnacle]

first thing i always do is make sure the filter will come off before i drain the oil and if your adding a cleaning aditive make sure the sump plug is loosened first.

[Tony Brooks]

The sump oil drain pumps have a habit of falling apart inside so my advice is to unscrew the cap (under the pull handle) and see what you lift out. I suspect you may find the washer/O ring, ball, spring, and valve cage may all be detached and in the bottom of the pump. If so a bent piece of coat hanger to hook out, reassemble and away you go.

[Timx]

Thanks, but have bought a new oil sump pump off e bay, I should of thought about that first, as you say.

I will look anyway when I remove the old one.

I will make sure I can loosen the filter first, hence the strap wrench, thanks again.[and have a plastic bag ready ]

[Jess--]

first thing i always do is make sure the filter will come off before i drain the oil and if your adding a cleaning aditive make sure the sump plug is loosened first.

this was my mistake last oil change

 

got everything drained down (20 hours early because I knew I had an 80 ish hour run coming up)

 

THEN found that the old oil filter will not budge

 

faced with leaving in 2 hours I opted for fresh oil and old filter rather than put a screwdriver through the filter and risk completely disabling the engine.

[cuthound]

this was my mistake last oil change

 

got everything drained down (20 hours early because I knew I had an 80 ish hour run coming up)

 

THEN found that the old oil filter will not budge

 

faced with leaving in 2 hours I opted for fresh oil and old filter rather than put a screwdriver through the filter and risk completely disabling the engine.

Not teaching your granny to suck eggs, but were you turning it the right way?

 

For a vertically mounted filter, it turns clockwise (when looking from above) to undo it.

[the barnacle]

this was my mistake last oil change

 

got everything drained down (20 hours early because I knew I had an 80 ish hour run coming up)

 

THEN found that the old oil filter will not budge

 

faced with leaving in 2 hours I opted for fresh oil and old filter rather than put a screwdriver through the filter and risk completely disabling the engine.

 

good move, - worth getting a decent ratchet clamp - never been keen on putting a screwdriver through incase you have to re-use the filter when it wont come off.

[Bobbybass]

I always had :

 

A pack of cheap Tesco / Asda etc absorbent nappies....and laid a few under the filter area to soak up spills...

A box of disposable latex gloves...always handy so you are not scrubbing in the sink for ages..

These will start to fall apart in a short time...due to the oil...so keep another pair ready to go...

 

I would hook a non-perforated carrier bag around the throttle handle so one side was open and handy for chucking stuff in without touching it.

 

I had some absorbent kitchen roll handy.....and had torn off some lengths so I didn't touch the actual roll.....along with a couple of shallow plastic containers of the type that you salvage from when you buy meat in a supermarket.

 

I would drain the old oil from the sump...and then put the container (as long as it has a gap for more oil) on top of the engine area...with a funnel in the top.

 

As has been said..I would loosen the filter slightly..and then hold it in a non-perforated plastic bag as I unscrewed it. I would also hold one of the meat containers under it. Removing the filter..I would tip it gently upright..as it contains oil...and then tip it into the funnel that is in the top of the container...along with any spillage in ther meat container...

 

Once empty..I would then tie off the bag its in...then put it into yet another bag...and put it into my bag hanging on the throttle.

It was then time to wipe off the filter mounting point etc...with the paper towel...along with wiping out the meat container for future use...

[Timx]

Great helpful advice, thanks.

[Bee]

just changed the oil on a Peugeot 107, filter must have been put on by a gorilla, strap on strap wrench broke, took off filter and the thing that its fixed to, in the vice in the shed, big stilsons off it came. I don't suppose many people have Peugeot 107's in their boat but the problems the same, a big enough lever etc.

Edited June 21, 2016 by Bee

[Paul C]

just changed the oil on a Peugeot 107, filter must have been put on by a gorilla, strap on strap wrench broke, took off filter and the thing that its fixed to, in the vice in the shed, big stilsons off it came. I don't suppose many people have Peugeot 107's in their boat but the problems the same, a big enough lever etc.

 

I've had a strap wrench break before, and other tools whilst not break, physically distort the filter metal casing rather than loosen the filter. I guess sometimes its because they're put on too tight.

 

There's at least 3 specific tools to remove oil filters, 4 if you count the screwdriver/hammer technique.

 

1. Strap wrench. Universal but not best at gripping the filter

2. "Claw" type thing which grips the end in 3 places:

 

http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equipment/Sealey-AK642-Oil-Filter-Wrench-Claw-Type-63-103mm-Capacity-3-8-and-1-2-sq-Drive-89-1190?IncVat=1&gclid=CjwKEAjwy6O7BRDzm-Tdub6ZiSASJADPNzYrX5_i4c-ovNOEmonDiYZTGvsoELKhR81o4e0pJpq2dhoCuKbw_wcB

 

3. Specific oil filter socket:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/131540532268?lpid=122&chn=ps&googleloc=1006523&poi=&campaignid=207297426&device=c&adgroupid=27041282826&rlsatarget=pla-178947320226&adtype=pla&crdt=0

 

My favourite is the 3rd one, obviously it only fits a subset of filters but it gives the best grip and the most chance of cleanly loosening a stubborn filter element. If we're talking about cars too, then more and more filters are the paper element type with a plastic body and an implausibly large nut on the end. For example an Audi A2 has a 36mm nut on the filter body.

[Guest]

 

I've had a strap wrench break before, and other tools whilst not break, physically distort the filter metal casing rather than loosen the filter. I guess sometimes its because they're put on too tight.

 

There's at least 3 specific tools to remove oil filters, 4 if you count the screwdriver/hammer technique.

 

1. Strap wrench. Universal but not best at gripping the filter

2. "Claw" type thing which grips the end in 3 places:

 

http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equipment/Sealey-AK642-Oil-Filter-Wrench-Claw-Type-63-103mm-Capacity-3-8-and-1-2-sq-Drive-89-1190?IncVat=1&gclid=CjwKEAjwy6O7BRDzm-Tdub6ZiSASJADPNzYrX5_i4c-ovNOEmonDiYZTGvsoELKhR81o4e0pJpq2dhoCuKbw_wcB

 

3. Specific oil filter socket:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/131540532268?lpid=122&chn=ps&googleloc=1006523&poi=&campaignid=207297426&device=c&adgroupid=27041282826&rlsatarget=pla-178947320226&adtype=pla&crdt=0

 

My favourite is the 3rd one, obviously it only fits a subset of filters but it gives the best grip and the most chance of cleanly loosening a stubborn filter element. If we're talking about cars too, then more and more filters are the paper element type with a plastic body and an implausibly large nut on the end. For example an Audi A2 has a 36mm nut on the filter body.

K&N filters often have a "nut" on the end....at a price.

I like the claw type and sometimes borrow my sons's, but most times I use my home made one: a piece an old leather trouser belt tucked into a slotted steel tube, with a tommy bar through a hole in the tube. Grips the filter cannister really well. Never let me down yet, though it is now difficult keeping my trousers up.

[Paul C]

You could glue your trousers up, then no belt would be needed.

 

One issue with the strap type is often the oil filter is a bit oily, so it slips rather than turns, if the filter is too tight. Then you need to clean the outside, maybe put a wrap or two of duct tape on it, etc to get enough grip. The socket-type just goes on and works.

[Guest]

You could glue your trousers up, then no belt would be needed.

 

One issue with the strap type is often the oil filter is a bit oily, so it slips rather than turns, if the filter is too tight. Then you need to clean the outside, maybe put a wrap or two of duct tape on it, etc to get enough grip. The socket-type just goes on and works.

That is where the rough inside of the leather belt works a treat. It grips even on oil. Another old trick is a large jubilee clip around the end of the cannoster where it is least likely to crush. a large screwdriver is then placed against the boss of the clip where the screw lives, and a sharp tap with a big hammer (in the right direction) will drive the filter loose. Works on very tight ones usually.

 

ps thanks for the trouser tip

[Ray T]

Not sure what engine here, but if the filter is a horizontally mounted spin on, then a member on here (apologies can't remember who) gave an excellent tip for making filter removal less messy:

A short length of PVC house gutter with a stop end fitted at one end. Whilst loosening filter, the gutter is placed underneath and catches (most of) the oil and the filter. a few cloths underneath catch the rest. Works great for me.

 

Ditchcrawler, I think.

Edited June 21, 2016 by Ray T

[Guest]

 

Ditchcrawler, I think.

Could well have been, on a blog IIRC. Either way it is a neat solution to a messy job (I will try the "bag" trick too.)