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Swapping engines.. Some pics of progress.


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The 2VTH being stripped down, hoping it would just need new rings and liners..

 

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Being towed backwards to have the engine lifted out.

 

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Engine stripped, at which point it was found to be too bad and too expensive to repair, with many parts unobtainable. We found that the engine had different injectors, one being the right one and one being from a VSH which is a higher psi.. No idea what that means..

 

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A 1VSH was purchased to replace it. This was originally a cement mixer engine, from a rather big mixer...

 

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All unnecessary parts removed to be sold..

 

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The inside was cleaned, especially the sump under the oil strainer and all new gaskets made and fitted. The engine has already had a new liner and rings and has had the injector and pump serviced.

 

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Engine given some new paint.

 

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New engine bearers made as the others aren't the same size..

 

That's it so far... Don't like to work too hard...

Casp'

Edited by casper ghost
  • Greenie 3
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I have a remote prm gearbox with a short Landy prop shaft between it and the engine. I just need to extend the prop shaft by 1.5", which i started on during mu lunch break today.

Although it's a single cylinder it's a bigger engine so it wont make much difference and it will be fine with the propeller. This single actually weighs 50 lbs more than the twin I had..

Casp'

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A little bit more today.

 

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An extension piece for the little prop shaft. Increasing the inside diameter so it will fit over the shaft.

 

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Part made. I then heated the extension piece so it slid over the shaft and once it had cooled it was stuck, but I have, of course, still welded around it.

 

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Old drive plate, on right, was second hand and had worn splines when I fitted it, so i've sourced a new-ish one to replace it. It's never been used but has sat in someone's shed for a while..

 

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I removed all the plastic parts and then turned down the steel lugs. I then needed to turn a bit to centre it accurately with the uj and drill the 4 holes to bolt it together.

 

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The finished parts ready to fit...

 

Casp'

 

 

 

 

 

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An old Volvo flywheel. I removed the back part of the duel mass flywheel, bored out the centre to fit the Ruston shaft, neatened up the back on the lathe and found a local engineering company to fit a keyway for me. Cost £20 in all. This will be used for the electric start system..

Casp'

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WP_20160623_15_17_17_Pro.jpg

An old Volvo flywheel. I removed the back part of the duel mass flywheel, bored out the centre to fit the Ruston shaft, neatened up the back on the lathe and found a local engineering company to fit a keyway for me. Cost £20 in all. This will be used for the electric start system..

Casp'

Stuffing a keyway up an internal bore is an arse ache without the right gear.

Last ball ache job I did was a new crankshaft pulley hub for a 1994 Isuzu trooper, virtually unobtainable and different from the 3.1. It meant turning up a hub, so far so easy, they keyway was munched out by locking the chuck in low gear and then strapping up with a 10ton ratchet strap.

I then ground up a tool to form the keyway, que much frantic winding back and forth on the saddle with 0.1mm cuts and frequent tool sharpening to finally produce a 7 x 4 mm keyway, I was absolutely bolloxed by the end :)

Edited by gazza
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I then ground up a tool to form the keyway, que much frantic winding back and forth on the saddle with 0.1mm cuts and frequent tool sharpening to finally produce a 7 x 4 mm keyway, I was absolutely bolloxed by the end smile.png

Yes, I did try to do the keyway myself on a milling machine, but once I had it clamped on it was obvious it was going to be almost impossible without hours of filing.. I was pleased to find a company to do it for me for £15.

 

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The volvo flywheel looks a bit better with some matching paint. On the right is the Ruston pulley, which is a heavy cast piece. The tapped holes in it are where the little prop shaft is connected, so drive from the engine is taken off this pulley. Once on the shaft, the flywheel and the pulley will be held together, I may weld them, but one is mild steel and the other cast iron... or I may try that miracle metal putty. It's only to keep the flywheel against the pulley..

Casp'

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Yes, I did try to do the keyway myself on a milling machine, but once I had it clamped on it was obvious it was going to be almost impossible without hours of filing.. I was pleased to find a company to do it for me for £15.

 

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The volvo flywheel looks a bit better with some matching paint. On the right is the Ruston pulley, which is a heavy cast piece. The tapped holes in it are where the little prop shaft is connected, so drive from the engine is taken off this pulley. Once on the shaft, the flywheel and the pulley will be held together, I may weld them, but one is mild steel and the other cast iron... or I may try that miracle metal putty. It's only to keep the flywheel against the pulley..

Casp'

£15 a bargain, I couldn't find anyone to do it for that sort of money let alone a drink that I did it for!

Still, where there is a will there is a way and the trooper lives to fight as another day!

 

The mods you are at are looking good, I often think if I hadn't become a mechanical wizard I'd be more skint than I am, I also would be less out upon!!!

 

Still, I'm getting better at the 1 syllabi 2 letter word :)

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Attaching the engine bearers..

 

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Made a sleeve for the mount bolts as it wasn't easy to get coach bolts big enough, so I kept to m16, which is what I used before.

 

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The sleeve in place.

 

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On its bearers.

 

Not really anything else to do now, but arrange to get it lifted into the boat..

Casp'

 

 

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Stuffing a keyway up an internal bore is an arse ache without the right gear.

Last ball ache job I did was a new crankshaft pulley hub for a 1994 Isuzu trooper, virtually unobtainable and different from the 3.1. It meant turning up a hub, so far so easy, they keyway was munched out by locking the chuck in low gear and then strapping up with a 10ton ratchet strap.

I then ground up a tool to form the keyway, que much frantic winding back and forth on the saddle with 0.1mm cuts and frequent tool sharpening to finally produce a 7 x 4 mm keyway, I was absolutely bolloxed by the end smile.png

I've done that, not quite the worst job I've ever undertaken but very nearly. The two universal joints back to back, nice and neat but I thought they had to be offset 90 (180?) degrees from each other? Happy to be told otherwise though.

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Attaching the engine bearers..

 

attachicon.gifWP_20160625_15_07_29_Pro.jpg

Made a sleeve for the mount bolts as it wasn't easy to get coach bolts big enough, so I kept to m16, which is what I used before.

 

attachicon.gifWP_20160625_15_08_15_Pro.jpg

The sleeve in place.

 

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On its bearers.

 

Not really anything else to do now, but arrange to get it lifted into the boat..

Casp'

 

 

Would have been good if you could have used "TICO sleeves& pads would have damped down the 1 POT thud/bounce somewhat shame your original motor expired as it sounded really nice in a you tube I watched

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I've done that, not quite the worst job I've ever undertaken but very nearly. The two universal joints back to back, nice and neat but I thought they had to be offset 90 (180?) degrees from each other? Happy to be told otherwise though.

I remember this debate from 6 years ago when I did it originally. It' difficult to find expert opinion because they all say something different. I've looked into it and some say 45 degrees out, some say must be in phase and some say 90 degrees.. These are Land rover ones and their book says 90 degrees, which is about what I have done. I didn't worry too much, it never seems to have made a difference on our 3 boats and we just fitted the ujs without even thinking about what phase..

 

I haven't heard of TICO sleeves and pads. I've had the engine running on just steel channel and it doesn't move much.

Casp'

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When I was doing C&G 390 Motor Vehicle Technician in the 1970s we had a demonstrator rig which showed that Hookes Joints (universal jpints) have varying amounts of angular velocity/output and input at various angles. So that although the input is turning constantly the shaft speeds up and slows down as the joint turns. At the end of a 360 turn the speedyp/slow down has equalled out and the system starts again. We have described Variable Velocity Jonit.

 

With two joints you have the first joint as above putting varying angluar/output velocity into the main tube, this will go into the second joint - there for the second jont has to ALIGN with the first joint to translate these variations back to a constant rotation. We have now described a Constsnt Velocity Jont.

 

In motoe vehicles there are other forms of CV but this basic form goes back to the 18th Century

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Yes, I remember seeing a good video showing how the uj's rotate. We went through it all last time, but no tea answer was found. I only know that it hasn't made any difference on any of our boats which all use this setup and the uj's are connected almost randomly. Maybe it's just because the revs are fairly low.

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I remember this debate from 6 years ago when I did it originally. It' difficult to find expert opinion because they all say something different. I've looked into it and some say 45 degrees out, some say must be in phase and some say 90 degrees.. These are Land rover ones and their book says 90 degrees, which is about what I have done. I didn't worry too much, it never seems to have made a difference on our 3 boats and we just fitted the ujs without even thinking about what phase..

 

I haven't heard of TICO sleeves and pads. I've had the engine running on just steel channel and it doesn't move much.

Casp'

Not as if they are going to be spinning at 3000rpm

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I haven't heard of TICO sleeves and pads. I've had the engine running on just steel channel and it doesn't move much.

Casp'

Google Tico Pads & that will bring you up to speed, Its more for anti vibration/damping than movement & a 1pot will be more "thumpy"than a 2 pot depends a bit on how much engine noise/ transfer ( or lack of ) you want to achieve.

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I've done that, not quite the worst job I've ever undertaken but very nearly. The two universal joints back to back, nice and neat but I thought they had to be offset 90 (180?) degrees from each other? Happy to be told otherwise though.

 

Hello Richard,

 

during my time in the NATO ('67-'71) I worked on heavy road vehicules and tanks, our heavy road vehicules had many universal jointed driveshaft, if they weren't properly fitted and had the wrong angle between the 2 UJ's, they would wear-out in no time at all.

 

Here are some drawings with a text that should make the story a bit more clear :

 

 

 

To achieve a constant speed output from the propeller shaft two Hooke-type couplings can be mounted either back-to-back or positioned in a certain way at each end of the propeller shaft. In both the configurations the relative positions of each coupling must be such that the speed

clip_image0073.jpg?imgmax=800

Fig. 26.11. Phasing of Hooke-type couplings.

change of one coupling is counteracted by the other. The phasing of Hooke-type couplings, as applied to two separate driveline layouts, is illustrated in Fig. 26.11.

From this diagram it can be seen that to obtain a constant speed,

(i) yokes at each end of the propeller shaft must be placed in the same plane, and

(ii) drive angle of each coupling must be equal.

A constant velocity (CV) joint imply that when two shafts are inclined to one another at some angle and are coupled together by some sort of joint, then a uniform input speed transmitted to the output shaft produces the same angular output speed throughout one revolution. There are no angular acceleration and deceleration as the shafts rotate. Various CV joints in use have a construction, which is based on either the twin hooke-type coupling arrangement or the angle bisects principle. The CV joints in use include :

• Tracta • Rzeppa

• Weiss • Tripode

 

 

For the installation in the narrowboat where the difference in angle isn't very important, the wrong position of the UJ's isn't all that important, and the slight difference in rotation speed of the prop during a revolution will be absorbed by the water, which isn't possible for a Wheel on the road, that's the reason while the UJ's won't last if wrongry positionned.

 

Peter.

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Hello Richard,

 

during my time in the NATO ('67-'71) I worked on heavy road vehicules and tanks, our heavy road vehicules had many universal jointed driveshaft, if they weren't properly fitted and had the wrong angle between the 2 UJ's, they would wear-out in no time at all.

 

Here are some drawings with a text that should make the story a bit more clear :

 

 

 

To achieve a constant speed output from the propeller shaft two Hooke-type couplings can be mounted either back-to-back or positioned in a certain way at each end of the propeller shaft. In both the configurations the relative positions of each coupling must be such that the speed

clip_image0073.jpg?imgmax=800

Fig. 26.11. Phasing of Hooke-type couplings.

change of one coupling is counteracted by the other. The phasing of Hooke-type couplings, as applied to two separate driveline layouts, is illustrated in Fig. 26.11.

From this diagram it can be seen that to obtain a constant speed,

(i) yokes at each end of the propeller shaft must be placed in the same plane, and

(ii) drive angle of each coupling must be equal.

A constant velocity (CV) joint imply that when two shafts are inclined to one another at some angle and are coupled together by some sort of joint, then a uniform input speed transmitted to the output shaft produces the same angular output speed throughout one revolution. There are no angular acceleration and deceleration as the shafts rotate. Various CV joints in use have a construction, which is based on either the twin hooke-type coupling arrangement or the angle bisects principle. The CV joints in use include :

• Tracta • Rzeppa

• Weiss • Tripode

 

 

For the installation in the narrowboat where the difference in angle isn't very important, the wrong position of the UJ's isn't all that important, and the slight difference in rotation speed of the prop during a revolution will be absorbed by the water, which isn't possible for a Wheel on the road, that's the reason while the UJ's won't last if wrongry positionned.

 

Peter.

Did you mean important or great?

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I meant close to next to nothing, as it's almost straight.

 

Peter.

Hi. I've just checked mine and the shaft will be at about 6 degrees. I was always told that the shaft should be at an angle as they do not like being straight. Not sure whether the 6 degrees will cause any trouble for my shaft. I put the yokes at 90 degrees to each other as that it was the manufacturer says, but that is when they are fitted on a car so I don't know what angle the shaft would be at then. I guess my shaft will be spinning at a max of about 800 rpm..

Casp'

 

 

Ed' Just watched an interesting video on youtube, they show the speed altering with angles wrong etc, but they show that being in phase is setting the uj's up as I have, so the yokes being 90 degrees from each other, whereas your diagram clearly shows the yokes being inline, which they say is out of phase.. They also show that as long as the angles of the uj's are the same at each end, which of course mine will be on a boat setup, then any speed alteration is cancelled out.. Anyway, i'm satisfied so I'll leave mine as they are.

Edited by casper ghost
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Hi. I've just checked mine and the shaft will be at about 6 degrees. I was always told that the shaft should be at an angle as they do not like being straight. Not sure whether the 6 degrees will cause any trouble for my shaft. I put the yokes at 90 degrees to each other as that it was the manufacturer says, but that is when they are fitted on a car so I don't know what angle the shaft would be at then. I guess my shaft will be spinning at a max of about 800 rpm..

Casp'

 

 

Ed' Just watched an interesting video on youtube, they show the speed altering with angles wrong etc, but they show that being in phase is setting the uj's up as I have, so the yokes being 90 degrees from each other, whereas your diagram clearly shows the yokes being inline, which they say is out of phase.. They also show that as long as the angles of the uj's are the same at each end, which of course mine will be on a boat setup, then any speed alteration is cancelled out.. Anyway, i'm satisfied so I'll leave mine as they are.

 

Yes Casper, there's no need to worry about your installation, water is very forgiving and will absorb the change in speed of the prop during the 360° of a revolution, so it won't prematurely kill the UJ's like it would do on a road vehicle.

 

Peter.

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Yes Casper, there's no need to worry about your installation, water is very forgiving and will absorb the change in speed of the prop during the 360° of a revolution, so it won't prematurely kill the UJ's like it would do on a road vehicle.

 

Peter.

This short prop shaft goes between the engine and the gearbox, but it's been there for 6 years and on removal the uj's are fine.

 

Unfortunately the crane that lifted the old engine out has been rented out to a builder so I'll have to wait for it's return before I can get the engine put in. No idea yet when that will be, it's a bit open ended..

Casp'

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