Boat Painting - How to go about it - Prep to completion

[Saffa]

Hi

 

I have been researching this topic recently using google and this site. Im yet to find a step by step guide but I have come up with the following. Please correct me if I have it wrong.

 

See the attached pictures to see what Im dealing with. Im planning on doing the gunwale only for now.

 

Where rust has broken through the existing paint I will scrape and sand down to bare metal using a 80 grit paper. I will scrape off all the existing non-slip tape and all loose paint. The using a random orbital sander Im sanding the entire area till its smooth but not necessary all back to bare steel.

 

Then Im using white spirit to clean the surface to be painted.

 

Then I use a Primer to cover the entire surface that was prepared. ( Recommendations on what to use please )

 

I then sand this using sander with 300-400grit paper.

 

Clean with white spirit and paint with undercoat ( Recommendations of what to use please ) 2 coats sanding with 300-400 grit between coats.

 

Then using a top coat . 2 coats sanding again between coats.

 

I am a complete novice to this so any tips will be helpful

 

Thank you

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Guest]

I am no expert at painting, so will leave that to those who are. I would however recommend a small angle grinder with a rotary wire "cup style " brush to attack such rust. The rust can then be treated with a converter. This method has worked for me.

[Captain Pegg]

Hi

 

I have been researching this topic recently using google and this site. Im yet to find a step by step guide but I have come up with the following. Please correct me if I have it wrong.

 

See the attached pictures to see what Im dealing with. Im planning on doing the gunwale only for now.

 

Where rust has broken through the existing paint I will scrape and sand down to bare metal using a 80 grit paper. I will scrape off all the existing non-slip tape and all loose paint. The using a random orbital sander Im sanding the entire area till its smooth but not necessary all back to bare steel.

 

Then Im using white spirit to clean the surface to be painted.

 

Then I use a Primer to cover the entire surface that was prepared. ( Recommendations on what to use please )

 

I then sand this using sander with 300-400grit paper.

 

Clean with white spirit and paint with undercoat ( Recommendations of what to use please ) 2 coats sanding with 300-400 grit between coats.

 

Then using a top coat . 2 coats sanding again between coats.

 

I am a complete novice to this so any tips will be helpful

 

Thank you

 

I have recently done the same and I think you won't go too far wrong. One thing I found was that a sanding disc even on an angle grinder simply wasn't man enough for removing rust patches. I ended up carefully using a grinding disc for the worst spots but found a wire brush was sufficient for most areas. That was after I had attacked it all with aluminum oxide paper.

 

I then treated the exposed areas with rust converter (Kurust), primed those same areas with red oxide primer followed by two coats of International Prekote over the entire gunwale and so far one coat of Toplac. Following the BCN challenge I need to touch up a couple of areas (one where something cut through back to steel in an area where I removed no paint) at which point I will topcoat the entire gunwale again.

 

Of course you will have to wait until next year before I can tell you if it worked!

 

JP

[Saffa]

I have recently done the same and I think you won't go too far wrong. One thing I found was that a sanding disc even on an angle grinder simply wasn't man enough for removing rust patches. I ended up carefully using a grinding disc for the worst spots but found a wire brush was sufficient for most areas. That was after I had attacked it all with aluminum oxide paper.

 

I then treated the exposed areas with rust converter (Kurust), primed those same areas with red oxide primer followed by two coats of International Prekote over the entire gunwale and so far one coat of Toplac. Following the BCN challenge I need to touch up a couple of areas (one where something cut through back to steel in an area where I removed no paint) at which point I will topcoat the entire gunwale again.

 

Of course you will have to wait until next year before I can tell you if it worked!

 

JP

Thank you

 

So I only prime the areas I take back to bare metal?

[Bloomsberry]

It's a good idea to take on a small area for your first time boat painting, gives you a bit of confidence without too much effort

 

The gunwale needs to be non slip so It would be a good idea to use some sand on one of the top coats to provide some grip.

 

Checkout John Bernard's series of boat painting videos on youtube, I found them very useful when I painted my boat for the first time last year

 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuENkqDZH6SZsleFxEpXhIg

 

As for priming I would prime the whole area you are painting

[Texasboater]

I have watched the John Barnard painting vids on YouTube. Good advice.

[Claude]

Don't forget eye protection when using angle grinders with wire wheels. When a bit of broken wire bristle hits you in the face you'll know all about it and be thankful it didn't hit you in the eye.

[Captain Pegg]

So I only prime the areas I take back to bare metal?

As for priming I would prime the whole area you are painting

I am far from an expert but I can't see what benefit priming on top of good paint would achieve. In my case the majority of the surface was well adhered but somewhat faded topcoat. I guess if most of the paint is removed in the preparation then priming the entire surface makes sense.

 

JP

[Richard10002]

I have watched the John Barnard painting vids on YouTube. Good advice.

 

I watched all of his videos, and did what he does on my handrails.... they are amazing, and put the rest of the boat to shame.

[Neil Smith]

I watched all of his videos, and did what he does on my handrails.... they are amazing, and put the rest of the boat to shame.

 

So when you doing the rest then.

 

Neil

[The Bagdad Boatman (waits)]

use 500 grit paper for a smoother finish and tacky clothes to remove dust.

[dave moore]

I wear tacky clothes for much of the time. Tack cloths, used to remove dust, live in my workshop. Panel wipe is also useful for degreasing prior to painting, available from vehicle finishing suppliers. Good luck.

 

Dave.

[LEO]

Hi,

 

Those rust spots seem fairly localised and quite severe (IMHO), I would check if there is a reason for that prior to repainting.

 

L

[Richard10002]

So when you doing the rest then.

Neil

Hopefully September. I need a final coat on the roof, prepare and paint front and rear decks, and polish the sides.

[Saffa]

Hi,

 

Those rust spots seem fairly localised and quite severe (IMHO), I would check if there is a reason for that prior to repainting.

 

L

 

Leo

 

What am I looking for.

 

There are a couple of spots on each side of the boat and around the pump out points.

[Captain Pegg]

Leo

 

What am I looking for.

 

There are a couple of spots on each side of the boat and around the pump out points.

It's likely the rust spots correspond to where water drains down the sides from the cabin roof or otherwise ponds on the gunwales due to localised unevenness or where there are fittings such as for the pump out.

 

JP

[LEO]

 

Leo

 

What am I looking for.

 

There are a couple of spots on each side of the boat and around the pump out points.

 

Hi,

 

It's difficult to say, a picture of the whole boat with a rough indication of the rust areas might help.

 

It could be problems from the flue if you have a solid fuel fire (but there seems to be no staining of the sides) or even a stray electrical current, but It would be worth investigating to try to eliminate the problem before painting.

 

L.

[DaveR]

The pictures show how rust can start and spread when left alone.They could have started from impact damage or just a pooly applied paint covering, if the bpat is newer then it could be scale left on the steel during building.

 

I did do a "painting course" done by Hempel. They showed us pictures of rust, done by a real close up camera. It showed that rusting takes on the appearance of a mountain range with peaks and troughs. In these troughs are deposits of iron oxide (RUST) which if left will often produce that small, spotted rusting that can appear on the paint some months after you have fininshed.

 

Grinding and power wire brushing does not always remove these left over rust deposits, they claimed the only way was to wash and scrub the cleared area using soap and lots of watr. Using a rust defeating primeror base coat should be "screwed" into the steel where the rust has been to have the bristles push the paint into these troughs. If the paint is applied by the usual sweep brushing it can lay across the peaks and leave the troughs un treated.

 

If a spirit (paint thiner etc) is used as a de-greaser then the small spot of grease is spread over a larger area. Only washing with soap and water will remove grease. There are many mechanics out there who will tell you that washing their hands in a spirit does not clean the hands. Yes it will remove some but not all. Washing also removes leftover dust which can affect the final paint covering.

 

Reading the instructions on paint is another important point. Many paints have very different application instructions. Don't rush things left the paint dry thoroughly but be careful about the "overcoat time" and stick to it. Make sure that the primer, undercoat and top coat are all compatable. Preferably from the same manufacturer.

 

Dave

[lesrollins]

Are these scabblers good for removing paint and rust and do they leave marks on the metal