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Best way to power a 24v toilet on a 12v/240v boat


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Hi everyone,

 

I am struggling to find an invertor/transformer to step up 12v to 24v or step down 240v to 24v.

 

The toilet motor is 260 Watts, 10 amps with a start up surge of 69 amps.

 

The toilet is a SaniMarin 24v which had been fitted to a motorhome project but was never used so is as new and I got it very very cheap.

 

Any advice greatly appreciated

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Car starter battery to add 12V to your leisure battery system will probably be cheapest. Will need a small charger and isolation switch to allow charging alone.

 

Increasing dc voltage needs to go via an ac device (classically a transformer, now a switched mode power supply / boost converter / switched capacitors etc) but with your start current this would be expensive - even if you can find one.

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Hi everyone,

 

I am struggling to find an invertor/transformer to step up 12v to 24v or step down 240v to 24v.

 

The toilet motor is 260 Watts, 10 amps with a start up surge of 69 amps.

 

The toilet is a SaniMarin 24v which had been fitted to a motorhome project but was never used so is as new and I got it very very cheap.

 

Any advice greatly appreciated

 

I know its a bit 'stable door' but after many years of making 'bad decisions' I have come to the conclusion that it is better to buy the 'right' thing in the 1st place rather than take all the extra expense of 'bodging' to make a cheaper item work.

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The best way I can think of is to put 2 small 12v car batteries close to the toilet. These will easily cope with the surge and intermittent use a toilet has.

I would run a 12v supply from after the domestic isolator to the toilet battery area where I would fit a 5 to 10 Amp step up supply - I guess about a fiver on e-bay.

 

The reason for the small supply is that -

1) a toilet does not take many amphours per day so not a lot to put back.

2) as the charger will be running whenever the isolator is on you want one with low losses, generally speaking, the bigger the output the greater the standby current.

3) you will not need to fit heavy cables for the charge supply as it only takes 5~10 amps rather than approx 70amps

 

I would also set the charge voltage quite low, maybe 27v

 

You will need a fuse at both ends of both the cables running between the toilet battery charger and the domestic isolator.

 

However you will need to study the regs to ensure your battery location and ventilation and fuse protection are all ok for your specific layout, as this is only a general idea.

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Haha have you seen the price of SaniMarin stuff, last time i looked the toilet was around £750 although I hear what you are saying about vetus, I have Vetus instruments and hydraulic steering and I remember thinking "ouch" when I got the bill.

 

My partner bought this 24v toilet off a friend of hers thinking she was doing the right thing bless her. I have 2 SaniMarin 12v toilets on my boat which was new in 2004. One packed up a few years ago and the other one is on its last legs, I have stripped the motor down and cleaned the carbon off the com etc which got it working again but its only a matter of time before it goes the same way as the other toilet.

 

Have tried and failed to buy a replacement 12v motor, Lee sanitation appear to be the sole uk distributers of SaniMarin toilets.

 

Having read Tiggs and Alans replies above I think the best thing I can do is try and sell this 24v model and put the money towards a new 12v one ....

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The best way I can think of is to put 2 small 12v car batteries close to the toilet. These will easily cope with the surge and intermittent use a toilet has.

I would run a 12v supply from after the domestic isolator to the toilet battery area where I would fit a 5 to 10 Amp step up supply - I guess about a fiver on e-bay.

 

The reason for the small supply is that -

1) a toilet does not take many amphours per day so not a lot to put back.

2) as the charger will be running whenever the isolator is on you want one with low losses, generally speaking, the bigger the output the greater the standby current.

3) you will not need to fit heavy cables for the charge supply as it only takes 5~10 amps rather than approx 70amps

 

I would also set the charge voltage quite low, maybe 27v

 

You will need a fuse at both ends of both the cables running between the toilet battery charger and the domestic isolator.

 

However you will need to study the regs to ensure your battery location and ventilation and fuse protection are all ok for your specific layout, as this is only a general idea.

Thanks for the advice bud but sounds like a lot of hassle, as I've just said I think it will be easier to sell this 24v one and buy a 12v one.

 

It's a shame because I only need a new motor but can't find one to fit.

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I know its a bit 'stable door' but after many years of making 'bad decisions' I have come to the conclusion that it is better to buy the 'right' thing in the 1st place rather than take all the extra expense of 'bodging' to make a cheaper item work.

 

 

Sahibs.com may well be able to rewind your 12v motors

 

^^ Wot A de E said...

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