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My Ruston & Hornsby could be dead...


casper ghost

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Interesting comment about alloy engines, we have 3 VTHs, 2 are all iron and one is mostly alloy ,, I'm surprised you are having serious problems. The loco engine is 75 years old and still runs ok.

Bill

Mine is iron and very heavy. It has a single flywheel with a large pulley the other end. It came from a farm where it ran a lighting plant. There is now talk of rebuilding it. I think it would be easy if it wasn't for the bearings on the crank that need regrinding, that means the engine has to come out.. I've now been offered a 1VSH which I would like, but I would probably have to do a lot of work on that before fitting too, it would pop nicely though...

Casp'

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Is the 2YBA of any interest to you?

 

Richard

It would be powerful enough, but I suppose I should replace it with another water cooled engine.

Thanks.

ah yes no way would a 3 pot RH fit there lol.

 

Ours was hand start it had more room than the rest of us on the boat hehe.

The gearbox is remote, under the back cabin floor. I left just enough room to be able to get past the engine, but I wouldn't want to do it with the engine running...

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It would be powerful enough, but I suppose I should replace it with another water cooled engine.

Thanks.

The gearbox is remote, under the back cabin floor. I left just enough room to be able to get past the engine, but I wouldn't want to do it with the engine running...

I wish Id taken pics of our install, the engine was in a rear engine room with the BWarner gearbox used to rest the steps on. A big lever gave direct control over it, as you can imagine the flywheel made using those steps interesting when the engine was running...

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A 1VSH would fit in there fine, and prolly nearly the same power as the 2VTH anyway... PERFECT solution and single pot too. What's not to like??!!

My 2VTH, being an industrial unit, is governed to 1000 rpm and gives 10hp at that. The 1VSH is 11 hp at 1500 rpm. A marine 2VTH is 15hp at 1500 rpm.

Casp'

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Not on youtube, facebook

Tom

Have you got a link please?

A 1VSH would fit in there fine, and prolly nearly the same power as the 2VTH anyway... PERFECT solution and single pot too. What's not to like??!!

When the seller sent me pics of his 1VSH is was obvious that it was actually a 1VTH, the brass engine plate saying 1VTH gave it away frusty.gif ... I'm still on the; completely rebuild my engine route as this will involve no alterations to the ancillaries. My engine did sound nice too.. Anyone know a company that can regrind cranks.. my crank shaft is 38.5" long..

Casp'

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. Anyone know a company that can regrind cranks.. my crank shaft is 38.5" long..

Casp' [/quote

 

Have a look at the federation of engine remanufacturers website. They have members across the country. The various capabilities of each are listed.

 

A 1 m long crank is not particularly long so that should not be an issue.

 

Do you have undersize bearing shells? If not you will also need someone to re-metal the existing ones.

 

N

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. Anyone know a company that can regrind cranks.. my crank shaft is 38.5" long..

Casp' [/quote

 

Have a look at the federation of engine remanufacturers website. They have members across the country. The various capabilities of each are listed.

 

A 1 m long crank is not particularly long so that should not be an issue.

 

Do you have undersize bearing shells? If not you will also need someone to re-metal the existing ones.

 

N

Or have the crank metal sprayed

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Have you got a link please?

When the seller sent me pics of his 1VSH is was obvious that it was actually a 1VTH, the brass engine plate saying 1VTH gave it away frusty.gif ... I'm still on the; completely rebuild my engine route as this will involve no alterations to the ancillaries. My engine did sound nice too.. Anyone know a company that can regrind cranks.. my crank shaft is 38.5" long..

Casp'

 

Yes

 

Richard

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What is metal spraying on crankshafts, and how effective is it?

Basically its like putting a layer of weld over the journals to build them up and then grinding them back to the original size. That is very simply. How good it is I can't say.

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I'm now wondering which part of my post you are answering with "yes"

Casp'

 

 

 

Anyone know a company that can regrind cranks

 

Yes - I use one all the time. And sorting out cylinders, heads, injectors, pumps, bearing shells, joints sets, filters etc. etc.

 

Richard

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Spoke to my mate, he says he's used a company in Coventry before to do regrinds.. I think adding metal to then grind down is fairly standard practice.

Casp'

 

Not really. Most engines will be produced with a crank to a particular size, and the workshop manual gives tolerances on that so you can decide if it is worn or not. If it is, then you regrind it smaller to the next standard size and fit thicker bearing shells. There will be a range of these shells typically -0.010", -0.020", -0.030" and -0.040"

 

Once you have worn it out below the last standard size you begin to think about looking for a crank or metal spraying. Hopefully, you are not there yet

 

Richard

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The technique uses a flame which melts either a wire or powder and blows the result onto the bit to be built up. It has a very patchy reputation on cranlshafts and its hard to find people who can do it.

Conventional stick or MIG welding will work provided the crank is not made of something exotic and hardened.

Both will cost more than a regrind alone.

However you get it clean and round though you will need new bearings.

N

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Ah, yes, but are various 'degrees of shells' available for such a venerable antique engine??

 

I've just fitted brand new ends to the rockers of a JP using original parts. You would be amazed what is still available

 

Richard

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