Stopping tidily at lock landings...

[Graham.m]

 

Yes I did! I had steered the bow in first and my son had jumped off with the bow rope. I was then steering the stern in so I could step off, and expecting the bow to swing out, but George had already strapped the bow rope on a bollard so I had to make a split second judgement whether to leap or have to deal with the boat across the cut. Andrew just happened to be in the right place at the right time with a camera. I didn't know about the picture until a few days later when a passing boater told me I was on the internet.

 

And we keep telling people step don't jump

[peterboat]

i always find the crossed fingers approach works well and if it fails it was the hand of cod that did it

[mark99]

At least you did not jump the 4 foot gap with a 2 foot long rope.

[Graham.m]

i always find the crossed fingers approach works well and if it fails it was the hand of cod that did it

 

Oh Peter COD has been over used this thread lol

[MtB]

Step off with the stern rope?

 

This is how I do it:

 

Photo by Andrew Denny on Granny Buttons blog. http://www.grannybuttons.com/granny_buttons/2006/08/fulbourne_at_na.html

 

 

Excellent pic David!!!!!!!!!!

 

Also looks as though you could be creeping very gingerly along an invisible gangplank...

[Loafer]

Why not 'spring' yourself on?

 

My centreline reaches the stern, with a large loop spliced in the end. I just approach slowly, bring me stern in, hop off and drop the loop over a bollard.

 

Hop back on, slowly apply forward power and tiller to bring boat parallel and into the lock landing. Then hop off, or not.

 

PS going slowly is important when stopping the boat with a centreline to the roof! She could pull herself over.

[Scholar Gypsy]

I am surprised nobody has yet (I think) suggested that a bow thruster might help ...

 

Re "tidily": the previous chief lockkeeper at Limehouse used to ask narrow boaters to come into the lock handsomely, which I took to mean don't hang about (or the boats behind you may miss the tidal window) but don't race in either.

 

Personally, my technique involves quite a bit of time with the engine in dead slow astern, which I find (NB all boats are different) slows me down but without completely losing steerage.

[David Mack]

 

And we keep telling people step don't jump

Yes, it wasn't the wisest of moves.

[Paul C]

Step off with the stern rope?

 

This is how I do it:

 

Photo by Andrew Denny on Granny Buttons blog. http://www.grannybuttons.com/granny_buttons/2006/08/fulbourne_at_na.html

 

It would have been much more sensible to send the dog off with the rope attached to its lead. I keep a stick/favourite toy for just such an occasion. Attach rope to dog collar, throw stick onto bank, dog jumps in, retrieves stick, returns to boat (the other side of a bollard) and voila!

[MtB]

 

It would have been much more sensible to send the dog off with the rope attached to its lead. I keep a stick/favourite toy for just such an occasion. Attach rope to dog collar, throw stick onto bank, dog jumps in, retrieves stick, returns to boat (the other side of a bollard) and voila!

 

 

far quicker to just chuck a line over that bollard and stay on the boat!

[cereal tiller]

Ok, as a solo boater I've always had a problem doing this.

 

I'd like to be able to come alongside close and parallel to a lock landing and stop.

 

What actually happens is when I engage astern to finally halt the boat, the stern gets pushed rapidly away from the bank and I can no longer step off. Bear in mind I'm cruising single handed.

 

Another technique is to approach the lock landing at an angle, engage astern so the bow just kisses the bank as the boat comes to a halt, Then apply a bit of ahead and full rudder defection to push the stern into the bank and step off with the centre line. This works moderately well for me but the the bow moves rapidly away from the bank and it takes a fair bit of effort to haul the boat back in and it looks as though I cocked it up royally!

 

The final method is to not bother with astern but to strap the boat to a halt with the stern line or centre line. Seems clumsy.

 

How do you lot do it?!

 

Thanks...

 

 

 

 

Simples.....

 

Approach the lock landing

 

Place Bow 2 feet from the edge.leave stern several feet from bank

 

REVERSE until Boat is gently moving backwards

 

Then move forward with moderate Tiller angle,The draw from the Propeller will suck the Stern end in

 

Step off ,feel smug,operate Lock

 

CT

[MtB]

Simples.....

 

Approach the lock landing

 

Place Bow 2 feet from the edge.leave stern several feet from bank

 

REVERSE until Boat is gently moving backwards

 

Then move forward with moderate Tiller angle,The draw from the Propeller will suck the Stern end in

 

Step off ,feel smug,operate Lock

 

CT

 

 

And at the same time feel acutely embarrassed as the bow will have moved across hard against the opposite bank...

(Your boat clearly behaves completely differently from mine!!)

Edited December 31, 2015 by Mike the Boilerman

[cereal tiller]

 

 

And at the same time feel acutely embarrassed as the bow is hard against the opposite bank...

Nope, the Bow came into the Correct side as you engaged forward thrust toe check the Boat's backward motion.

 

Keep practicing and try not to become mesmerized by your Antique Engines's exhaust note!

 

CT

[Cloudinspector]

Simples.....

 

Approach the lock landing

 

Place Bow 2 feet from the edge.leave stern several feet from bank

 

REVERSE until Boat is gently moving backwards

 

Then move forward with moderate Tiller angle,The draw from the Propeller will suck the Stern end in

 

Step off ,feel smug,operate Lock

 

CT

I've tried that with Mervyn and the stern just ends up further into the middle of the cut.

[Paul C]

I've tried that with Mervyn and the stern just ends up further into the middle of the cut.

 

Turn the tiller the other way then?

[alan_fincher]

People seem to be overlooking the fact that Mike has a penchant for buying engines and gearboxes where "reverse" is a bit of a black art, and not always a guaranteed instant outcome!

[tidal]

I get it wrong 9 times out of 10 and frequently resort to either the boathook (if there are rings available) or the pole end to shove the stern inwards.

I always attempt to stop by strapping but don't always succeed and the boat tends to not be in the position intended
Not that I admit this unless there is a clanging sound (not infrequent)

 

That said though I'm far better handling the heavy traditional boats than I am the lightweight modern ones.
Sadly usually I approximately steer the latter so few who have observed me (mis)handling them tend to let me play with their historic boats

[NBDensie]

Ok, as a solo boater I've always had a problem doing this.

 

.......

Another technique is to approach the lock landing at an angle, engage astern so the bow just kisses the bank as the boat comes to a halt, Then apply a bit of ahead and full rudder defection to push the stern into the bank and step off with the centre line. This works moderately well for me but the the bow moves rapidly away from the bank and it takes a fair bit of effort to haul the boat back in and it looks as though I cocked it up royally!

 

........

How do you lot do it?!

 

Thanks...

 

 

 

 

 

I like to use a technique similar to this. Coast in towards the bank at angle of say 60 degrees. Just after the Mrs starts shouting and just before the bow hits the bank turn the tiller by perhaps 60 degrees and apply a quick blip from the engine. WIth a bit of luck the boat turns to end up alongside the landing where only a little bit of reverse brings it to a halt. If it's timed right it feels great and looks impressive. However get it wrong and you hit the bank or you turn early and end up stopped three feet into the canal.

[zenataomm]

People seem to be overlooking the fact that Mike has a penchant for buying engines and gearboxes where "reverse" is a bit of a black art, and not always a guaranteed instant outcome!

I once spent an interesting evening with a new Bolinder owner (he was new to it, not the engine that was new) he described locking through on The GU thus: -

 

"Having just passed a boat in the other direction you pray nobody has started turning the lock round. Coming round the corner you can see it's empty and the gates open, phew! Easing the engine down as much as you dare without it cooling and going out, you gather up every piece of rope to hand, I don't know why, rope just seems to comfort you. Next you wave to the two old dears in the bungalow as you straighten up for the lock entrance knowing the by weir will do it's best to throw the front end over.

As you enter the chamber you advance the timing to try and get the right moment to reverse the engine and not stall it ... advance ....Advance...ADVance ... BLOODY ADVANCE! ......... Got it! A quick burst stops further rounding of the stem post due to ramming the cill.

Now to regain Ahead in order to keep it up against the cill, retard ....REtard ... RETARD! ..... watch the by weir doesn't chuck you across onto the side ..... RETARD!!! ..... wave to the two old dears in the bungalow ...... throw the ropes around while muttering about how wonderful the silence is now it's stalled.

Put the kettle on."

 

He described what tackling a GU lock that's against you is like when you live with a Bolinder.

 

"Your heart sinks when you realise the closed gates you can see are not the far end ones. Shutting down to tick over fools the fisherman on the bank into thinking you were doing it for his benefit. Truth is you can't be doing with any more of this Advance and Retard shenanigans than you have to. Having seen an old wooden bollard you're hoping you can strap onto it with your centre rope without ripping out any more history. Leaping for your life and praying you don't fall or slip you run like you're in a forest fire hoping the rope is long enough to take a couple of turns and you don't get your fingers in the way ..... again!

Pretending that it's perfectly normal to see your boat heel over to 75 degrees accompanied by a loud graunching noise and a gentle smashing of lace plates you're secretly delighted to observe through the engine 'ole doors that The Thunderbox is still upright. Everything calms down and the boat just gently nudges aginst the rope every time she fires.

Whistling confidently you walk down and close one bottom gate, walk back up, cross over and go close the other side. Walk back and lift one set of paddles, whilst pondering why there's never a second boat to lock through with when you need one? Cross over lift those paddles, then open a gate.

Walking back to the boat you're surprised yet happy to hear she's still chugging every few seconds and that you remembered to tie one of those clever knots that holds the boat without getting so tight with each tug of the engine that it's impossible to untie. Just as you about to climb onto the counter you realise the fisherman has ambled up to you .....

Oi Mate, your boat don't like me .... as soon as your back was turned it came back up to me, ate my keepnet .... farted in my face and then went back to where you left it!"

 

Still I reckon I'd have one!

[tidal]

I've just used my last green thingy

[Keeping Up]

That is just brilliant! I've added a greeny.

[MtB]

 

I like to use a technique similar to this. Coast in towards the bank at angle of say 60 degrees. Just after the Mrs starts shouting and just before the bow hits the bank turn the tiller by perhaps 60 degrees and apply a quick blip from the engine. WIth a bit of luck the boat turns to end up alongside the landing where only a little bit of reverse brings it to a halt. If it's timed right it feels great and looks impressive. However get it wrong and you hit the bank or you turn early and end up stopped three feet into the canal.

 

 

If only!

 

My boat needs astern in spades to come to a halt, by which time the stern may be three feet from the bank, but the bow is 30ft away...

 

Which is the problem I outlined in the first place.

 

Anyway I'm now convinced it's because the boat draws so much. All the water shot forwards during astern has to go down the sides as there is no space under the baseplate, thus pushing the boat away from the bank.

 

When entering a lock going downhill the effect disappears. I reckon it's because there is plenty of depth under the boat.

[ditchcrawler]

 

 

If only!

 

My boat needs astern in spades to come to a halt, by which time the stern may be three feet from the bank, but the bow is 30ft away...

 

Which is the problem I outlined in the first place.

 

Anyway I'm now convinced it's because the boat draws so much. All the water shot forwards during astern has to go down the sides as there is no space under the baseplate, thus pushing the boat away from the bank.

 

When entering a lock going downhill the effect disappears. I reckon it's because there is plenty of depth under the boat.

I think you are right

[cuthound]

If only!

 

My boat needs astern in spades to come to a halt, by which time the stern may be three feet from the bank, but the bow is 30ft away...

 

Which is the problem I outlined in the first place.

 

Anyway I'm now convinced it's because the boat draws so much. All the water shot forwards during astern has to go down the sides as there is no space under the baseplate, thus pushing the boat away from the bank.

 

When entering a lock going downhill the effect disappears. I reckon it's because there is plenty of depth under the boat.

I agree, it is to do with the depth of water. DQ draws 2 foot 8 inches and is a joy to stop in most places, but at our home mooring the water is usually about 2 foot 10 inches deep. Here I regularly end up looking like a pillock when trying to moor

[Dave Payne]

i give up trying to find the best way to do it, i just get the stern near the bank, jump off with center line and drag it in...