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1.8 Starter issues....


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Ok, so where do I put a spanner, I haven't a clue. I'm assuming it is one of the wheels with the belt in at the end.

 

 

Yes, the one at the bottom is the crankshaft pulley. Turn that. If it won't turn, you have a Bigger Problem than just the starter motor. May take quite a lot of force to make it start to turn, but if it moves at all it isn't seized. Best to rotate it one full revolution to make sure.

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Yes clockwise is the correct direction, if you are looking at the face of the flywheel pulley.

 

The convetional way of defining engine rotation is to view the engine from behind the boat, looking forward. This method shows the BMC rotating anticlockwise.

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So, I looked up the starter model in the BMC manual, and it is an M45G, apparently

 

This is an M45G: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAS-M45G-26054A-12v-STARTER-MOTOR-FREE-UK-POSTAGE-NR-/221691927846?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item339dde5d26

 

$_12.JPG

 

I don't think I've ever seen a starter with a manual switch before

 

Richard

Vert common years ago on vehicles with ''pull knobs'' on the dashboard to start. Mainly Side valve Ford cars, vans and trucks right up to 1959, not the 100E S/V engined car though.

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Vert common years ago on vehicles with ''pull knobs'' on the dashboard to start. Mainly Side valve Ford cars, vans and trucks right up to 1959, not the 100E S/V engined car though.

 

 

Yes my A35 had a pull knob to start it IIRC. Much preferred it to the newfangled ignition key start on my dad's Ford Zodiac.

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Yes my A35 had a pull knob to start it IIRC. Much preferred it to the newfangled ignition key start on my dad's Ford Zodiac.

Yes but the A35 didn't have a mechanically actuated starter motor. The pull knob pulled a cable which led to a contact switch under the bonnet which relayed the electric to the simple spiral bendix starter motor. The switch under the bonnet had a pin sticking out which was the continuation of the cable to the knob inside. You could push the pin to turn the engine over.

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Yes but the A35 didn't have a mechanically actuated starter motor. The pull knob pulled a cable which led to a contact switch under the bonnet which relayed the electric to the simple spiral bendix starter motor. The switch under the bonnet had a pin sticking out which was the continuation of the cable to the knob inside. You could push the pin to turn the engine over.

And jolly usefull it was to if you didn't have a mate helping you repair your wreck.

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My A35 and my first Mini Minor used to have a button on the end of the starter motor solenoid I could press to turn the engine over from under the bonnet. And jolly useful too. On later cars I had this button was missing from the end of the solenoid.

 

 

MtB

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My A35 and my first Mini Minor used to have a button on the end of the starter motor solenoid I could press to turn the engine over from under the bonnet. And jolly useful too. On later cars I had this button was missing from the end of the solenoid.

 

 

MtB

Most cars of that era had them. Early mini vans had the starter solenoid on the floor by the handbrake with a button on top which was the starter button, near the battery which was behind the driver's seat.

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Ahem.

When going over there should be a fair bit of resistance to overcome the compression.

Sorry but it seems you may not have turned the engine over yet.

Either that or.........

Over to everyone!

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About 5mins in. turn the same nut as he is on [bottom pulley] with a spanner. If she turns that pulley 360 then all good. Only this pully going round 360 is what matters. you may have turned the prop drive?

title

How to time a 1500 bmc diesel engine

youtube

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Just out of interes...

On the opposite side of engine to the starter, injection pump etc, below the air fifilter. Is a small domed case, with a fuel line going in and out, with a rod ontop attached to a spring, what is this?

That's the fuel lift pump. Providing the engine camshaft is in the right place you should be able to prime fuel through by pulling the rod up and down. The rod should have a loop on the top from memory. One fuel line should go to the injection pump eventually and the other should come from the fuel tank eventually if you trace the lines back.

Roger

Edited by Albion
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Sorry, been away, chances of engine/ transmission being seized are slim but things do jam, only takes a minute to make sure everything is turning properly and to save another bunch of annoying problems.

 

Agreed

 

Richard

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Everything seems to be turning fine, no oil loss...

Why was the starter motor making a like a grinding, clunking noise? When I tried to start it a second time I was down in the engine bay and when I turned the key, it was slightly twisting a bit too...

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Don't keep trying to start it like that. If the pinion and clutch assembly are breaking up they can damage the ring gear or busted off bits may fall down inside the bell housing, pick up and damage things in there, like the drive plate or crack the bell housing.

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Everything seems to be turning fine, no oil loss...

Why was the starter motor making a like a grinding, clunking noise? When I tried to start it a second time I was down in the engine bay and when I turned the key, it was slightly twisting a bit too...

 

That suggests the fixing bolts are loose. Very loose!

 

The starter motor should not move at all when operated.

 

 

MtB

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That suggests the fixing bolts are loose. Very loose!

 

The starter motor should not move at all when operated.

 

 

MtB

Or loose through bolts in the starter which would allow the armature to hit the fields with much grinding and eventual short circuit. All this about "does the engine turn?" is a bit odd to me. If the starter is busted it needs a new one, if a new starter meets a seized engine that does not mean another knackered starter, not unless you decide to hold the key with a full charged battery for a loooong while. All starters should be subject to a lock torque test and brief periods locked up will not be harmful

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The bracket where it was fixed was not twisting...after the bracket is a thin what looks like a seal about 3-4m thick, then the main starter casing. It was twisting from that seal, just the main body, not at the bracket.

 

Taking starter to reading today to be reconditioned

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