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Eberspacher Remote Control


Simon D

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just managed to view the link..... doesnt mention what temperature range it operates between... just to make you aware some maplin stuff come in kit form... and you have to solder all the components in yourself.... had that before myself.

Try to post you the link to the eber site but it wont let me, basically its on the eberspacher uk site, easystart timers, the tech. spec. page 36

Hope you manage to sort it.

steve

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actually rob when i think about it..... your heater is designed to be a car heater i believe, so one of the pins on the eight pin heater plug will be configured to give power to a relay for the vehicle fan and or vehicle water pump when the heater turns on, it may well have built in timer off delay feature too. Use a meter to see which pin gives out power when the heater is on, and check if it also has an overrun feature too.

You should be able to run a relay to your water pump from that terminal all been well.

 

Good luck with it mate

Steve

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actually rob when i think about it..... your heater is designed to be a car heater i believe, so one of the pins on the eight pin heater plug will be configured to give power to a relay for the vehicle fan and or vehicle water pump when the heater turns on, it may well have built in timer off delay feature too. Use a meter to see which pin gives out power when the heater is on, and check if it also has an overrun feature too.

You should be able to run a relay to your water pump from that terminal all been well.

 

Good luck with it mate

Steve

Hi Steve,

Apologies for the delayed replies. Had a surreal weekend which included my father falling downstairs breaking his hip and shoulder.

 

I did think the black/red wire would supply power but, when I tested it there was no output. I'm not sure if it has a delayed opening and only powers up over a certain temperature. I'd intended spending a bit of time sorting out these jobs over the weekend but, in the end, there wasn't time.

On the plus side, I bought that temperature controlled relay board, have soldered it together and will run some experiments with it during the week and hopefully install it next weekend.

 

Rob

 

PS. Was looking at that D5WS manual. It looks like it uses the Yellow wire for powering up. Have you tried that combination with the easy start switch?

 

Red +12v

Brown -ve

Yellow - Yellow on Easystart

Blue - Blue/White on Easystart

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the original topic seems to have moved away from "remote control"

as I said in an earlier post I bought one and its taken until now to have it up and running

wired it in and my mobile would not connect to it, nigel said that he had sent wrong sim card so he sent another. my mobile would still not connect to it even though my phone showed a 3g connection and was right next to the device.

I remembered 5 years ago on the boat with my nokia that I had to get outside the boat to connect, so I ordered an external antenna and fitted that and it connected straight away. but still the device would not start my webasto. called yet again and he said I needed to link the 12v to the com on the device. so I supplied the com connection with the required 12v and it all worked.

so I got there in the end and pleased that I can now turn it on before I go to the boat and better still I can text it to run for "x" time when its cold

clive

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Jolly good, perseverance pays off! I had a bit of grief with my one (different make) in that it seemed to receive a different caller ID from the same mobile according to whether it was an actual call, or a text. One was +4477 etc and the other was 077 etc. In the end I just programmed both numbers in so now I can text it to start the heater, and then phone it up to listen to the startup sequence, which is reassuring!

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Hi Steve,

Apologies for the delayed replies. Had a surreal weekend which included my father falling downstairs breaking his hip and shoulder.

 

I did think the black/red wire would supply power but, when I tested it there was no output. I'm not sure if it has a delayed opening and only powers up over a certain temperature. I'd intended spending a bit of time sorting out these jobs over the weekend but, in the end, there wasn't time.

On the plus side, I bought that temperature controlled relay board, have soldered it together and will run some experiments with it during the week and hopefully install it next weekend.

 

Rob

 

PS. Was looking at that D5WS manual. It looks like it uses the Yellow wire for powering up. Have you tried that combination with the easy start switch?

 

Red +12v

Brown -ve

Yellow - Yellow on Easystart

Blue - Blue/White on Easystart

Soz to hear about your dad rob, hope he gets well soon as can be expected.

seems you have the water pump scenario well in hand anyway, let me know how you get on as iv now got myself a D5Z-H same as yours and hope to find time to try wiring it up in the next day or two , hopefully will work wired to the easystart as you have described.

 

Regards the D5WS , yea i tried it how you mentioned, tried a few possible scenarios, trouble is its not a standard d5ws its a mercedes one, off a 906 sprinter, found a diagram for it that indicates the yellow wire you mention is the + power to the wasserpumpe(as the germans put it) and the timer wires are the four wires on the separate plug. As NMEA said, its a lottery as to whether you can make it work off the vehicle or not, so iv given up on that one, already wasted far to much time on it.

Sorry if iv led this topic away from the GSM remote thing guys, im certainly interested in all the comments regards GSM control and will be looking to purchase a GSM control as soon as i get over the first hurdle.......and get this eberbastard fired up!

Regards

Steve

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  • 1 year later...

Sorry to resurrect this thread but I have just purchased a GSM switch from www.uk-gsm.co.uk but before I wire it in I want to test how to start the heater (D5W) without pressing the heater button on the timer. So with just 3 wires going into the back of the timer (Red, Brown & Yellow) should I be able to start the unit by connect the Red & Yellow wires?

 

Does this connection stay on throughout the operation, or is it a short pulse to start the heater?

 

Many thanks

 

David

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Not actually having one I'm reluctant to reply but as I understand it, connecting the red and yellow should cause the heater to run. Disconnecting the red and yellow should cause it to stop running. So for the second part of your question the answer is that the connection has to stay on throughout the operation of the heater.

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Hi Psycloud,Could you please let me know the actual model number of the GSM switch you bought?

Did you disconnect the red/yellow wires from the Eber' timer so they now only go to the GSM switch ?

Cheers,Paul

Edited by The Bearwood Boster
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Hi

 

I bought the 12.5d

 

http://my-eshop.info/epages/b0ab711e-2b0d-4e78-aa0b-1b45c672018a.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/b0ab711e-2b0d-4e78-aa0b-1b45c672018a/Products/%22GSM%20v12.5d%22

 

Since I had previously cut the Eberspacher cable to feed it through a hole in the wall, I already had a chocolate block connector on all 3 cables. I took an additional piece of red cable and joined it into the chocolate block (at the red) and connected the other end to one side of the RELAY1 connector in the GSM unit. I then did the same for the yellow cable and connected it to the other RELAY1 terminal.

 

The unit itself needs 12v +/- but don't take this from the Eberspacher cables as it will blow a fuse (as I found out to my peril). The GSM unit uses up to 2A and the Eberspacher fuse is only 5A so I ran a new +/- feed to the GSM unit with it's own fuse.

 

Finally I text the GSM unit So1 to make it run in solid mode.

 

I can use either the GSM unit or the timer unit but one can't turn the other off so if you fire it up with the GSM then you need to stop it with the GSM.

 

David

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  • 6 years later...
On 08/12/2014 at 16:43, NMEA said:

Yes, fitted quite a number of these and the Webasto Thermo Call 3 units over the past year and they are simple to fit and use, Some see them as a gimmick, and in fairness they probably are to those people, but for those that will actually use them due to their lifestyle and unpredictable movements they are a sensible and usefull control method.

Hi, I came across this thread a few years after it was posted. I have an eberspacher hydronic d5wsc with a 701 controller. I asked an eberspacher engineer I know about it, and received the following reply:

 

"My understanding is gsm signals don't work any more due to the phone networks turning off 2g; autoterm and webasto have just had to completely redesign their systems" 

 

Any comment? 

 

Thanks

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12 minutes ago, captain flint said:

 

"My understanding is gsm signals don't work any more due to the phone networks turning off 2g; autoterm and webasto have just had to completely redesign their systems" 

This from an ofgem doc I posted earlier in the year suggests some providers are still offering a 2g service, though I must admit, I haven't checked recently:

 

Quote

The UK’s mobile network operators have confirmed to the Government that they do not intend to offer 2G and 3G mobile networks past 2033 at the latest.

 

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19 minutes ago, captain flint said:

Hi, I came across this thread a few years after it was posted. I have an eberspacher hydronic d5wsc with a 701 controller. I asked an eberspacher engineer I know about it, and received the following reply:

 

"My understanding is gsm signals don't work any more due to the phone networks turning off 2g; autoterm and webasto have just had to completely redesign their systems" 

 

Any comment? 

 

Thanks

We have a GSM remote switch system on the boat. It used to be with Three but they stopped supporting 2G, now it is with EE and still works for the time being. These days I think the term “GSM” can be used loosely. You can get so called GSM switches that work on 2G and 4G. Certainly, if I was going to buy a new one, I’d make sure it was compatible with 4G

Edited by nicknorman
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2g will be with us for a while yet. There are too many "services" reliant on the 2g network 

However 3g will be history quite soon.

Best 2g SIM I found was GiffGaff (O2) has a long expiry time and reasonable 2g coverage.

AFAIK 3 never had a 2g network as it was launched after 3g came into existence.

https://www.which.co.uk/reviews/mobile-phone-providers/article/the-uk-3g-network-switch-off-what-you-need-to-know-a28ou1e1RXJA

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14 minutes ago, GUMPY said:

 

AFAIK 3 never had a 2g network as it was launched after 3g came into existence.

https://www.which.co.uk/reviews/mobile-phone-providers/article/the-uk-3g-network-switch-off-what-you-need-to-know-a28ou1e1RXJA


Yes I think you are right, must have been a different network. But whatever it was, their 2G stopped working and we had to switch to EE

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The alternative -- if you already have an always-on router onboard powered from the battery (many use 12V DC) -- is a CH controller which uses Bluetooth (and usually an app to control it, either locally or remotely), these are widely available. This also means other things like alarms, leak detectors and anything else you fancy can be made remotely accessible, while only needing one SIM.

 

Given that many boats now have an onboard router for internet access/TV streaming, this seems more sensible to me than various separate cellular links. Also if you have an external antenna, this gives better signal/coverage for everything connected to it.

Edited by IanD
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An on board router only works where you have a usable 3/4/5g signal. At Blackthorn Lake Marina 2g was more reliable than 3/4g due to network congestion.

That's why my control system* was SMS 2g controlled using one SIM. It's way cheaper as well😉

 

*Heating on/off, battery SOC alarm, boat internal temperature alarm, shore power failure alarm, and one spare circuit.

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5 minutes ago, GUMPY said:

An on board router only works where you have a usable 3/4/5g signal. At Blackthorn Lake Marina 2g was more reliable than 3/4g due to network congestion.

That's why my control system* was SMS 2g controlled using one SIM. It's way cheaper as well😉

 

*Heating on/off, battery SOC alarm, boat internal temperature alarm, shore power failure alarm, and one spare circuit.

That's a good solution if it does what you want -- I assume it's DIY, there doesn't seem to be anything off-the-shelf that does this?

 

2G should be OK until 2033, 3G is starting to be turned off now...

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2 hours ago, IanD said:

That's a good solution if it does what you want -- I assume it's DIY, there doesn't seem to be anything off-the-shelf that does this?

 

2G should be OK until 2033, 3G is starting to be turned off now...

DIY using commercial units nothing clever.

A 2g gsm relay switch with 4 I/O ports 

The switch turns the heating on / off

The I/O Ports;

One was fed from Smartgauge alarm set at 75% SOC

One from a relay in the C/U

One from a digital thermostat

All very simple and efficient.

 

This sort of unit.

 

It paid for itself a year or so ago when over the course of a week it sent me SOC alarm messages every night.

Solar was charging during the day and one battery was dragging the other three down overnight so 4am every morning I got an SOC txt.

Drove up and discovered a shorted cell, how long it would have lasted before it went bang I dint know.  

Edited by GUMPY
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