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bmc 1.5 wont start


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17 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Isn't it annoying when someone asks the identical question in multiple threads :

He's only ever made two posts!  Probably thought no-one would reply to an old post so started a new thread.

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On 13/07/2017 at 15:23, don bott. said:

Hi all. new to this site...Hello

I have a bmc 1.5 diesel in my boat (19'LOFTUS BENNET) which I just cant get running ? the freind I bought it from had the injection pump rebuilt, and all new injectors too. Have replaced the lift pump with an electric pump now, but just will not start ? bled from tank to bleed point (8mm head) on side of pump. peeing out fine. but hardly anything at injectors ( I know it doesnt need that much fuel to run) loads running back to tank return  and tank 3/4 s full too. but will not run ???

HELP !! PLEASE 

 

So can you clarify if it ran correctly after the injection pump rebuild and new injectors please? 

Or put another way..

1) Did the fault arise when you fitted the electric pump, or

2) Did it never work after the injector and injector pump rebuild?

If 2, then I'm wondering why the injector pump was re-built. Rebuilding the injector pump might have been a misdiagnosis and different fault is stopping it running, and persists. Why did you replace the mechanical lift pump with an electric? Was it a wild guess or did you have a firm reason?

 

And welcome to the forum by the way!!!

Edited by Mike the Boilerman
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2 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

So can you clarify if it ran correctly after the injection pump rebuild and new injectors please? 

Or put another way..

1) Did the fault arise when you fitted the electric pump, or

2) Has it never worked since the injector and injector pump work?

3) Did it work prior to the rebuild & new injectors (- or was that the reason for the rebuild) ?

4) If the answer to 3) is no - then what were the symptoms of non-starting ?

If 2, then I'm wondering if rebuilding the injector pump was a misdiagnosis and different fault is stopping it running. Why did you replace the mechanical lift pump with an electric? Was it a wild guess or did you have a firm reason?

A couple of extra questions whilst we are 'at it'.

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hi all. sorry i am new to this (forum / sitd) and learning as I go....i need to sign in to reply an all that my mate , nor I , have ever seen this engine run for more than 2 to 3 seconds. when it does start it just stops after ...2 to 3 seconds ? I put the electric pump on ...just to see if it helped as there was Very little hand pump movement ( all the lump internals have been replaced new goo ) ..new filter. stop ..in right pos. throttle on full.. not much smoke....plenty of compression ...

thanks all for your replys. much appreciated. I am learning a lot

ps am currently on a ferry back to the rock.(isle of man)  ...hense typos..

Edited by don bott.
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8 minutes ago, don bott. said:

the manx gov. payed for her to be brought up. so all ( all 6 crew were still aboard her) crew could be returned home for buriel . has now been scrapped.. I am lifeboat crew in Douglas...

Wasn't it 7 crew ?

 Wasn't she scrapped at the end of 2013 (ish)

Been fortunate that I have never needed your (or your colleagues) services, but its a great thought that you are there if needed.

Thank you for your service. May you stay safe.

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The OP replied in the other thread that he has plenty of smoke while cranking.

My answer here.

OK, so lots of smoke indicates plenty of fuel. Lack of start indicates the timing is wrong/not enough heat in cylinder. However unless a compression test has been done it could still be lack of compression. Do you have any readings?

Certainly a lack of glow plugs working could give that symptom but so could missing "top hat" injector heat shields that came out on the end of the injectors and were not put back with suitable washers.

I am concerned about the starts and runs for a very short while bit, it sounds as if it might be sucking air into the fuel system. Are the fuel pipes between filter and injector pump the right way round? (The one by the arrow OUT on the filter goes to the one on the pump furthest from the engine.)

Was the injector pump/camshaft skew gears inspected?

Is the  line scribed on the pump flange pointer lined up with the pointer on the triangular pump mounting plate?

 

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Last time my bmc 1.5 would only run for a couple of seconds was after I replaced the fuel filter and hadn't got the seal seated correctly. It was sucking in air. Once I got the seal sorted, and the fuel system bled, it ran as normal.

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8 hours ago, Jess-- said:

for testing could you set up a small tank (plastic bottle) above the engine and gravity feed fuel to the engine.

would rule out filters and lift pump in one fairly simple hit

It may not, the injector pump has a rotary vane pump in it so that might produce sufficient suction to draw air through a loose union or poor filter seal. Worth a try however.

Don, the filters normally have 3 or 4 seals on them. The two large ones are sometimes transposed. The large upper seals are often twisted or not fully in their slot. The internal one on the nose of the filter cannot produce these symptoms. Finally the centre bolts is sometimes sealed by a soft washer and on more modern filters by a small O ring. Look at the top of the filter around the centre bolt hole. If it has a machined flat on the filter head it needs a new soft washer. If the top of the hole is slightly tapered it needs an O ring.

While you are at it take the banjo bolt out on the filter head and ensure: 1, its hollow. 2, the 0.5mm hole in the side is clear 3.it is connected to a return to the fuel tank.

 

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26 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

It may not, the injector pump has a rotary vane pump in it so that might produce sufficient suction to draw air through a loose union or poor filter seal. Worth a try however.

Don, the filters normally have 3 or 4 seals on them. The two large ones are sometimes transposed. The large upper seals are often twisted or not fully in their slot. The internal one on the nose of the filter cannot produce these symptoms. Finally the centre bolts is sometimes sealed by a soft washer and on more modern filters by a small O ring. Look at the top of the filter around the centre bolt hole. If it has a machined flat on the filter head it needs a new soft washer. If the top of the hole is slightly tapered it needs an O ring.

While you are at it take the banjo bolt out on the filter head and ensure: 1, its hollow. 2, the 0.5mm hole in the side is clear 3.it is connected to a return to the fuel tank.

 

And - make sure that all old 'o' rings were removed when the filters were replaced - it as been known for an 'o' ring to stay in place and when the new filter & new 'o' ring is added it becomes too 'thick' to form a proper air-tight seal.

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hi Tony & co. have checked the filter, the large rubber seals look fine and wern't twisted or kinked . The tiny o ring on the bolt looks ok too, the filter has the chamfered hole in the centre, can't see where that seals onto ?  I have ordered a new filter from asap , comes with new seal kit . While I am on, my old lucas alternator turns Very freely ? and... it doesn't have a "w" connection/takeoff for my tacho. have removed the unit and back cover, of the 3 anodes/diodes ? which or where do I solder my tacho wire to ? here is a photo of my alternator. thanks guys ..

20170716_121835.jpg

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