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Outback FM 60 Controller dump load


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We've been reading up on using a dump load to utilise excess solar energy. It's clearly possible. We've found the appropriate section in the Outback manual but the terminology is just confusing for what is probably quite straight forward.

 

It mentions some kind of relay but it can't be mechanical, as follows.

 

Diversion (AUX Mode)

When external DC sources (wind, hydroelectric) are directly connected to a battery bank, any excess
power should be sent to a diversion load, such as a heating element, using a mechanical relay or
solid-state relay.
In Diversion mode, the user programs set points — from -5.0 volts to 5.0 volts relative to the
Absorbing, Float, and EQ voltages — to activate the AUX output. The Diversion AUX mode can be
active (ON) when the battery voltage is raised above one of these set points for a certain amount of
time or inactive (OFF) when it falls below.
 To control a mechanical relay for basic on/off switching of a standard diversion load, follow the instructions
in Figure 25 (both pages).
 To control a solid-state relay for PWM switching and precise control of a load, follow the instructions in
Figure 26 (both pages). This application should not be used with a mechanical relay. It requires the use of a
resistive load and should not be used with other sorts of loads.
For a wiring diagram illustrating how to connect this function, see Figure 27.

 

 

 

Figure 27 Is a wiring diagram which just makes my head spin, so I might get someone in to do this if it is indeed as difficult as the diagram suggest to my wee electrical brain.

 

The Calorifier is 2 metre away from the Outback controller and I think I can source a 12v 600w element although only a 1" npt and I'm sure our calorifier element connection i a lot bigger.

 

Help & suggestion appreciated cheers.gif

Edited by Julynian
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I think the thread title (Outback FM 60 Controller dump load) provides a clue here.

 

 

Actually it does not. The OP actually wants a diversionary controller to use up excesses. With an FM60 he does not need a dump load at all.

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Makes sense to have the panels doing some useful work once the batteries are.full, though, doesn't it?

 

Would there be enough power for a small, dedicated inverter for a little 240v immersion heater?

 

That was an option I was thinking about as well. 12v elements are quite expensive and not too well proven. We currently have a 240v 1kw element in the calorifier. I do have an old 1500w quasi sine inverter which would operate the element, I think I might need batteries to run the inverter though, unsure.

 

 

Actually it does not. The OP actually wants a diversionary controller to use up excesses. With an FM60 he does not need a dump load at all.

 

AHHH I'm using the term dump load as a general term, I see it doesn't actually apply in this instance as you point out.

 

I also don't have a clue what a diversionary controller Is. Is it already a part of the Outback controller or is it something i need to obtain to connect between the controller and heater element?

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Its what the Outback does. IE when there is spare it diverts the spare bit to a useful purpose. If you also use an Outback inverter it has lots of setting that can make use of excess production. Including selling it back to the grid if you are grid connected.

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We've been reading up on using a dump load to utilise excess solar energy. It's clearly possible. We've found the appropriate section in the Outback manual but the terminology is just confusing for what is probably quite straight forward.

 

It mentions some kind of relay but it can't be mechanical, as follows.

 

 

Figure 27 Is a wiring diagram which just makes my head spin, so I might get someone in to do this if it is indeed as difficult as the diagram suggest to my wee electrical brain.

 

The Calorifier is 2 metre away from the Outback controller and I think I can source a 12v 600w element although only a 1" npt and I'm sure our calorifier element connection i a lot bigger.

 

Help & suggestion appreciated cheers.gif

As I read it they are saying:

A mechanical relay can supply any load; resistive, inductive, capacitive, e.g. motor, flourescent light etc.

A solid state relay can (should?) only be used to supply a resistive load, e.g. incandescent lamp, heater element etc.

 

If you have a specific need to use a solid-state relay (e.g. minimal 'pick/hold' current, no arcing contacts) it will work with a resistive load like your 600W (50A!) immersion heater.

 

As others have said, the current-dump function is intended to load a windpower generator to prevent it overspeading. Page 27 (link please) does not apply to your alternative application.

 

Alan

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Actually it does not. The OP actually wants a diversionary controller to use up excesses. With an FM60 he does not need a dump load at all.

 

I was responding to this statement: "Unless as was quoted above in the manual the solar is directly connected to the bats."

 

Clearly the solar is not connected directly to the batteries.

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As I read it they are saying:

A mechanical relay can supply any load; resistive, inductive, capacitive, e.g. motor, flourescent light etc.

A solid state relay can (should?) only be used to supply a resistive load, e.g. incandescent lamp, heater element etc.

 

If you have a specific need to use a solid-state relay (e.g. minimal 'pick/hold' current, no arcing contacts) it will work with a resistive load like your 600W (50A!) immersion heater.

 

As others have said, the current-dump function is intended to load a windpower generator to prevent it overspeading. Page 27 (link please) does not apply to your alternative application.

 

Alan

 

Thanks Alan.

 

So is this as simple as connecting the Outback controller directly to the element with some kind of relay in between and of course using appropriately sized cable. I'm assuming there's some connections internally in the Outback for this. If a relay is required how would I size it.

 

We have a 696amp B/B

 

740w of solar

 

Cheers again Al

 

Figure 27 on Page 39

 

http://www.outbackpower.com/downloads/documents/flexmax_6080/owner_manual.pdf

Edited by Julynian
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I was responding to this statement: "Unless as was quoted above in the manual the solar is directly connected to the bats."

 

Clearly the solar is not connected directly to the batteries.

 

 

I was responding to the post that said solar does not need a dump load, when in some installs IE direct connection it does. As was mentioned in the quote from the manual..

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Paul

 

Found this one here, I do like the look of the German models though, but a big difference in price

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/water-heater-12v-24v-48v-100-900w-Made-from-the-excellent-stainless-steel-/251564459712?pt=UK_Gadgets&var=&hash=item3a926906c0

 

I might give this cheaper model from Ireland a go though.

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The thread hole size is confusing me though. I believe the current 240v heater element is a 2. 1/4"

 

These 12v elements are 1 inch and the German versions 1.5 inch. Are there adaptors for these elements?

 

Also we have a vertical tank so the longer the element the better, the German option at 405mm might be a better option.

Edited by Julynian
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The thread hole size is confusing me though. I believe the current 240v heater element is a 2. 1/4"

 

These 12v elements are 1 inch and the German versions 1.5 inch. Are there adaptors for these elements?

I think MtB would be the man for that one.

 

The Element in the EBay link you posted does seam to be a Variable output from 100-900w. That could be good !.

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I think MtB would be the man for that one.

 

The Element in the EBay link you posted does seam to be a Variable output from 100-900w. That could be good !.

 

Yeah MTB would be the man.

 

I spotted the variation as well, up to 300w for the 12v version if I read it correctly 100 - 200 0r 300w

 

I wonder what would be the most effective. Assuming batteries are full, with 740w of solar available, might it need to higher than 300, I'm not sure, we need some elasticricians too LOl

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The output is not variable.

 

It changes with the voltage chosen.

 

12v 300w DC Water Heater Elements

    • 1. Material: SUS304

    • 2. Tube diameter: 8mm

    • 3. Tube length: 200mm

    • 4. Flange: 1" sus304

    • 5. Power and volt: 12v,300w
    • 6.Thread :1" BSP
    • Each heating rod is basically 100watt. You can achieve 12v 100w by connecting one element, and 12v 200w by connecting two elements,12v 300w by connecting all three elements!

       

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Hi Julynian,

I spent most of my youth working as a pipefitter welder/plumber.

I can't recall ever seeing a two and a quarter inch by one inch BSP bush.

If there is one maybe BSS may stock, or you could have one made I suppose at a reputable engineers.

 

Baz

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Hi Julynian,

I spent most of my youth working as a pipefitter welder/plumber.

I can't recall ever seeing a two and a quarter inch by one inch BSP bush.

If there is one maybe BSS may stock, or you could have one made I suppose at a reputable engineers.

 

Baz

 

Sorry Baz

 

I meant 2.5 inch I think lol

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Hi Julynian,

I spent most of my youth working as a pipefitter welder/plumber.

I can't recall ever seeing a two and a quarter inch by one inch BSP bush.

If there is one maybe BSS may stock, or you could have one made I suppose at a reputable engineers.

 

Baz

 

I was also wondering if I could get a 1" Npt thread tapped through the blank. I do have the original blank somewhere. Is that a possibility?

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Assorted reducing bushes here

 

(I take it you are aware that BSP diameter measurement is a bit odd, being based on pipe measurement, rather than tube measurement, i.e for a 1" BSP thread a tapping drill is over 11/16", and a 2" BSP nut has a hole about 21/4" diameter through it?)

 

Iain

 

Hi lain Yeah I do know all measurements are bigger than stated, it is confusing. There's no reducer I can find that will reduce from 2.5 inch to 1 inch though. I think these 12v elements are designed to go through the side of immersion heaters which do usually have 1" bsp connections I believe.

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