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What Length of Ropes and is there a best type


DandGNWales

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I should have made myself a bit clearer. I was thinking of buying a drum of braid and making my own lines. I would need to form eyes and terminate the loose ends. I know I'd be crap at any sort of traditional methods. I thought there may be a crimping system similar to wire rope methods.

Steve P

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I should have made myself a bit clearer. I was thinking of buying a drum of braid and making my own lines. I would need to form eyes and terminate the loose ends. I know I'd be crap at any sort of traditional methods. I thought there may be a crimping system similar to wire rope methods.

Steve P

Crimping would damage the fibres, have a play with a short bit of cable lay, its supprisingly easy and strangely enjoyable

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  • 3 weeks later...

Best thing is play with some cheap bits of rope till your happy then buy a short bit of the rope your actually going to use and play with it try different lengths of splice and diffrent ways of tieing off the loose ends then go and buy your rope. Once youve done a few youll soon get the hang of it. I did it this way they might not be 100% neat but there still going strong 2-3 years on. Even started making fenders.

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  • 11 months later...
7 hours ago, Irob said:

Get it as soft as possible so it doesn,t burn the first mate's hands or mark the back on flogging day ! Why are pirates called pirates ? Because they Aahharrrrrr !!!

What is the point in flogging if you can't see where you have been?

  • Greenie 1
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 30/09/2013 at 23:04, grahame r said:

I like nice thick soft ropes so would go for 14 or 16mm nylon.

As to length, I like to keep the centre lines just too short to reach the prop. in our case with a 57ft boat 30ft centre ropes are safe. Stern ropes are always going to be a danger so keep them maneageable to store on the counter, say 20ft. I'd go for a nice long bow line which is handy if sturdy mooring points are few and far between.

I have to disagree here. on all counts.

I like a very long centre line (about 60 feet) so that in the case of a high wind off the mooring I can strap myself on to the mooring.  For the same reason I like a heavy one so that it can be thrown up wind without being blown back in your face.  Never had a problem with getting it wrapped around the prop.  I store it coiled on the cabin slide and never had it blow off.

Nick

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 01/10/2013 at 08:17, Neil2 said:

Most ropes are three strand nylon these days, 12-14mm should be ok for your boat.

Is there an easy guide for thickness to boat type/length/weight ratio.

For a 60 steel hull narrowboat 12-14mm or 14-16mm recommended?

like the advice on length of line required .....keep it long, as am planning on being a solo runner, longer seems a better solution....just got to keep them tidy.

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3 minutes ago, The Grumpy Triker said:

Is there an easy guide for thickness to boat type/length/weight ratio.

For a 60 steel hull narrowboat 12-14mm or 14-16mm recommended?

like the advice on length of line required .....keep it long, as am planning on being a solo runner, longer seems a better solution....just got to keep them tidy.

Size is a personal thing as the strength of even the skinny 12 mil is enough for narrowboat needs. I personaly prefer thicker rope as I find it easier to handle on the hands. For instance if winter boating with freezing wet ropes thin stuff hurts and needs a tighter grip and cuts into hands more readily. The drawbacks the thicker you go can be weight ( depending on rope type ) and space on deckgear. 18 mil is great but the wife doesnt like it so at moment I dont use it :mellow:

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5 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

Size is a personal thing as the strength of even the skinny 12 mil is enough for narrowboat needs. I personaly prefer thicker rope as I find it easier to handle on the hands. For instance if winter boating with freezing wet ropes thin stuff hurts and needs a tighter grip and cuts into hands more readily. The drawbacks the thicker you go can be weight ( depending on rope type ) and space on deckgear. 18 mil is great but the wife doesnt like it so at moment I dont use it :mellow:

Hey there Mrsmelly 

That's a good point, I have large plates for hands, hadn't thought about the feel in the hand other than not wanting hard cheap nylon feel.

So much info around these threads...start getting dizzy with some of it. A lot of good feedback as well.

Is it worth fitting a central eye to the middle of the boat & middle of roof for a central line? Was going use a rope either side and tie it to a roof rail....need to get one of those fitted as well, realised that the boat I'm looking at doesn't have one. I am so clumsy am bound to fall in too often without one

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7 minutes ago, The Grumpy Triker said:

Hey there Mrsmelly 

That's a good point, I have large plates for hands, hadn't thought about the feel in the hand other than not wanting hard cheap nylon feel.

So much info around these threads...start getting dizzy with some of it. A lot of good feedback as well.

Is it worth fitting a central eye to the middle of the boat & middle of roof for a central line? Was going use a rope either side and tie it to a roof rail....need to get one of those fitted as well, realised that the boat I'm looking at doesn't have one. I am so clumsy am bound to fall in too often without one

Centre lines are of great help. I have one either side as I always found with one that I had left it were I couldnt get hold of it easily so now one on each side. If roof mounted handrails are strong enough then its fine to tie to them but far from ideal.

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On 11/04/2016 at 08:39, fudd said:

Maybe I'll give it a go. Can't be too hard can it!!!!!!

A tip when splicing, especially if, like mine, they are not as neat as you would like.   After finishing your splice, roll it backwards and forwards under your foot on a hard surface.  It's remarkable how it can make a dodgy splice look quite neat.

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5 hours ago, mrsmelly said:

Centre lines are of great help. I have one either side as I always found with one that I had left it were I couldnt get hold of it easily so now one on each side. If roof mounted handrails are strong enough then its fine to tie to them but far from ideal.

Didn't even consider that roof mounted handrails might not be strong enough...

...shouldn't they be connected with gripper, glue, mountaineer's spikes and 24" nails and screws every 6"?

 

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6 hours ago, The Grumpy Triker said:

Is there an easy guide for thickness to boat type/length/weight ratio.

For a 60 steel hull narrowboat 12-14mm or 14-16mm recommended?

like the advice on length of line required .....keep it long, as am planning on being a solo runner, longer seems a better solution....just got to keep them tidy.

One of the joys of boating is having lots of lovely rope to play with.  You can't have too many ropes. I used to say a rope is never too long only too short but I've changed my view on that since getting the centre line round the prop.  

You see a lot more braided rope on narrowboats these days but I still think it's too stretchy and you can't do much with it, 3 strand nylon is still the best compromise IMO.

Just don't hang it over your tiller pin.    

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44 minutes ago, WotEver said:

But it looks so pretty...

Or leave it where you can kick it over the side. Aft mooring ropes need to be removed from dollies etc and put somewhere like the roof when cruising, it takes seconds to reattach them to the boat when needed.

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26 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

Or leave it where you can kick it over the side. Aft mooring ropes need to be removed from dollies etc and put somewhere like the roof when cruising, it takes seconds to reattach them to the boat when needed.

Had to laugh as was at a marina pub just now and the guy said - hang it by the tiller...I would worry about that but equally I'd need it set in one place so I know where to find it.....

.....Real hemp rope or synthetic Hemp is the choice I now have - will get 220 metres and can sell the balance, just need to decide.:wacko:

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2 minutes ago, The Grumpy Triker said:

Had to laugh as was at a marina pub just now and the guy said - hang it by the tiller...I would worry about that but equally I'd need it set in one place so I know where to find it.....

.....Real hemp rope or synthetic Hemp is the choice I now have - will get 220 metres and can sell the balance, just need to decide.:wacko:

Hanging your mooring line on the tiller is the easiest way to say I Am A Wally to the outside world.  So called synthetic hemp is polypropylene the only good reason to use it is if you want a line that floats other than that it's inferior to nylon, or polyester come to that, but maybe cheaper.  Polyprop is good for fake rope fenders but it isn't as nice to handle as nylon.  

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3 minutes ago, Neil2 said:

Hanging your mooring line on the tiller is the easiest way to say I Am A Wally to the outside world.  So called synthetic hemp is polypropylene the only good reason to use it is if you want a line that floats other than that it's inferior to nylon, or polyester come to that, but maybe cheaper.  Polyprop is good for fake rope fenders but it isn't as nice to handle as nylon.  

Yep would worry about that

as for type - was thinking real hemp or synthetic - can't stand the feel of nylon, but then maybe I am talking the hard cheap plastic stuff, is there a soft rope alternative.....would 18mm synthetic still float? I have big hands and 14mm felt too small, 16mm at a push...can't even decide on a ruddy rope type :huh:

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43 minutes ago, The Grumpy Triker said:

Yep would worry about that

as for type - was thinking real hemp or synthetic - can't stand the feel of nylon, but then maybe I am talking the hard cheap plastic stuff, is there a soft rope alternative.....would 18mm synthetic still float? I have big hands and 14mm felt too small, 16mm at a push...can't even decide on a ruddy rope type :huh:

I honestly think many people confuse nylon with polypropylene as both are often just labelled "synthetic" but they are very different.  The type of nylon used in rope is very soft to the touch, polyprop is much harsher even when wet.  All polyprop rope will float and some see that as enough of a reason to use it.    

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13 minutes ago, Neil2 said:

I honestly think many people confuse nylon with polypropylene as both are often just labelled "synthetic" but they are very different.  The type of nylon used in rope is very soft to the touch, polyprop is much harsher even when wet.  All polyprop rope will float and some see that as enough of a reason to use it.    

That's probably me then :huh:

have to admit, am not so fussed about rope floating ....today, that may change, so nylon v hemp? I would have expected synthetic hemp to be soft as well, but sounds like it may not be a perfect replacement for all.

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Polyester rope is the stronger, soft to touch, and more expensive synthetic ropes. Very common in the sailing world.

Staple spun Polypropylene is a nice to handle light weight rope which will float, and is what most 'synthetic hemp' boat ropes are made from.
Split film Polyprop. on the other hand is the cheap blue or orange sheeting/farming grade rope core as per baler band and the line.

Nylon rope is very springy, soft to the touch, but also slippy and will not hold all knots well and and such I am not a fan, but at the end of the day its your call.

 

Daniel

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21 hours ago, DHutch said:

Polyester rope is the stronger, soft to touch, and more expensive synthetic ropes. Very common in the sailing world.

Staple spun Polypropylene is a nice to handle light weight rope which will float, and is what most 'synthetic hemp' boat ropes are made from.
Split film Polyprop. on the other hand is the cheap blue or orange sheeting/farming grade rope core as per baler band and the line.

Nylon rope is very springy, soft to the touch, but also slippy and will not hold all knots well and and such I am not a fan, but at the end of the day its your call.

 

Daniel

Think I need to find somewhere to go and get my hands on some and have a good feel, but given that I am as I am I'll settle for trying out different types of rope at some location or other :D

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