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Leaking radiator pipe. how to fix it without draining system.HELP??


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We have a leaking rad pipe.Usually I woulde freeze the system/pipe undo and apply ptfe tape.

But the system is full of anti freeze any ideas.

I do not fancy draining the system.

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Hi, if this is a vented system, you can seal the header tank lid with clingfilm or similar, put a jug or tray under the joint to repair, then open it up slowly, you'll get a bit out but it will create a suction and hold the water back.

once you've repaired the joint, just pour the antifreeze back in to the header tank (obviously you'd want the system cold and turned off first, it,s a good idea to shut the valve at the other end of the rad first.

if it's the gland on the radiator spindle, try just tightening the gland nut a bit first, you can also repack these with twisted ptfe to reseal.

hth

paul

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Hi Guys thank you for your methods..

The nut is tight and it still leaks.

I will try the freeze pack first and then ptfe tape. Tighten up and see if that cures it.

 

Any other ideas.


Fernox LS-X
looks good too.

thanks

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Any other ideas.

 

Does the system go into an unheated space like the engine room where you actually need a 30% or 50% mix of water & antifreeze?

 

Although it still shouldn't leak, antifreeze actually reduces the viscosity of the water to the extent that it will find any leaks that water alone wouldn't. Try draining a bit of the coolant out and refilling with water at the same time to weaken the concentration. If you do it carefully you won't even need to bleed the system. Circulate the system as you fill it and you might find it stops leaking by itself.

Edited by blackrose
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What exactly is it leaking from?

Usually, there is a BSP taper thread into the radiator, a cone connection to the valve, and "normal" compression or solder joints thereafter. PTFE tape is useful on the first one, but won't help the rest, which don't ( or shouldn't!) seal on the thread.

A smear of jointing compound or plumber's mate on the cone or olive might help, but shouldn't be necessary, unless it's a compression olive joint that has been over tightened, distorting the pipe too much.

 

Iain

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The leak is from the pipe and the rad connector.

We are planning to retop up the system.

Yes the system goes into the engine bay.

Do the job properly to a good standard like you would in a house or other building. If not you will be forever worrying about it.

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unfortunately we subcontracted the plumbing to a boat builder of many years.

But he ended up being a gobby cow boy.

The system is now resealed and fiited properly.

PTFE On every joint.

Job now done properly.Thanks for your ideas.

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