SR2 smoking

[LesR]

No Les I have not tried the old one back as I think it was leaking into the sump as for the tappet thing I have no idea what you are refering to.

 

Even if the old one is leaking it will tell you if the problem is the pump.

 

The tappet is the small metal rod that fits in the engine block between the lift pump and the camshaft. You can see it when the pump is removed. This is what makes the lift pump work. If it was missed out when the new pump was fitted, the pump can not function.

Edited January 19, 2012 by LesR

[claudia]

Got you Les when its back together I will do what Bizzard said to see if thats pumping.

[Albion]

Even if the old one is leaking it will tell you if the problem is the pump.

 

The tappet is the small metal rod that fits in the engine block between the lift pump and the camshaft. You can see it when the pump is removed. This is what makes the lift pump work. If it was missed out when the new pump was fitted, the pump can not function.

 

If it is any help in the checks I will say that once, during my 25+ years running my garage business, we found a push rod for a fuel pump that had worn down and hence the pump wasn't getting operated in the correct part of its stroke and failing, therefore, to deliver full supply. The rod will still get full stroke from the cam but doesn't push the pump in the main part of its stroke. This though was a VERY rare occurrence; just the once IIRC.

Roger

[Proper Job]

I had the lift pump actuation arm break on a Petter PH2W. I was transiting from Limehouse to Teddington at the time.

 

That took a while to suss out the problem and then the rest of the trip with someone operating the manual primer

[Springer Skipper]

Cant beat gravity feeds,swhy a daytank is such a GOOD idea

There are also little screws in SOME pumps inside the valve

part,if one of them sits on the top it limits the pump travel and hence the flow rate.

pull it all apart.

Robin

 

edited for spellings

Edited January 20, 2012 by Springer Skipper

[claudia]

Think I will go for a new lift pump just to be sure, anybody wish to make a stab at which one to go for I won't hold it against you.

[bizzard]

Think I will go for a new lift pump just to be sure, anybody wish to make a stab at which one to go for I won't hold it against you.

I would test your old one as described first,follow its outlet pipe to the fuel filter unit,undo it and crank the engine over on the starter,there should be quite powerful gushes of fuel. Have you tried altering that governor stop device yet as described.?

[Albion]

I would test your old one as described first,follow its outlet pipe to the fuel filter unit,undo it and crank the engine over on the starter,there should be quite powerful gushes of fuel. Have you tried altering that governor stop device yet as described.?

 

I agree entirely. Testing by replacing parts is simply wasting money. Do diagnosis such as Bizzard describes and you may not (probably won't) need a new lift pump. Imagine if a garage did diagnosis of problems on your car by just replacing more and more parts until they just happened to replace the faulty one; does that seem a sensible route?

Roger

[Proper Job]

I absolutely agree with the above.

 

When my actuator arm sheared off, it was simple to test by cracking a union on the pipe between the lift pump and the injector pumps.

 

In my instance nothing came through when turning the engine over, but it did when manually operating on the manual priming lever.

 

Check the operation of the lift pump before you go through the expense of buying a replacement.

[claudia]

I always do as I am told.