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frank lloyd wright

water lubricated stern gland

65 posts in this topic

Like Martin I would like to know how (assuming the shaft was extended by about an inch - the thickness of the R&D coupling), what effect pushing the prop back by an inch would have? I can't see myself chopping an inch off the prop shaft with an angle grinder in the engine hole. Can you imagine the mess?

 

For those who've fitted an R&D coupling on their boats, how did pushing back the prop affect the performance?

 

I'll have to look at my existing (non-flexible) prop shaft coupling. Perhaps the prop shaft can go further into it?

It's a while since I dismantled the R&D, but on ours I am 99% certain that the shaft was level with the face of the shaft coupling. Yours of course may be different.

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hope in got this right as its my first time. I have change the seals on my propshaft which seemed easy. slacked the 4 clamp bolts on the coupling and slid the shaft back and removed the 3 screws holding the oil seal housing, removed housing from shaft removed both oil seal,replaced both seal in housing and relaced. the oil seals I purchased from local bearing specialist for 2 pound each. silicone grease from plumbers merchant and the paper gasket was replaced with gasket compound, all done with the boat in the water.

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hope in got this right as its my first time. I have change the seals on my propshaft which seemed easy. slacked the 4 clamp bolts on the coupling and slid the shaft back and removed the 3 screws holding the oil seal housing, removed housing from shaft removed both oil seal,replaced both seal in housing and relaced. the oil seals I purchased from local bearing specialist for 2 pound each. silicone grease from plumbers merchant and the paper gasket was replaced with gasket compound, all done with the boat in the water.

 

What make of water-lubricated gland was that? At £2 a seal it can't have been Vetus unless there are cheaper seals available?

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What make of water-lubricated gland was that? At £2 a seal it can't have been Vetus unless there are cheaper seals available?

Would be interesting to know. I have pondered as to whether Vetus just use a standard oil seal, and stick it in an orange coloured package, along with a "profit margin."

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it is a Vetus but I took the seals to a local bearing supplier who said they were a standard oil seal

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it is a Vetus but I took the seals to a local bearing supplier who said they were a standard oil seal

 

Thanks, that's worth knowing.

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it is a Vetus but I took the seals to a local bearing supplier who said they were a standard oil seal

Brilliant :) Don't suppose you know the seal number?

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My prop shaft does not pass through the coupling, but am unsure if it could owing to the failsafe strap. I think the shaft might be able to pass into the coupling a little, but wouldn't like to guess how much. If notI suppose the alternatives are to either push the shaft back a little, or cut a bit off the shaft with a large angle grinder. IIRC the shaft shouldn't protrude out of the tube (prop side) by more than 1.5 times the dia of the shaft. No doubt somebody will be along to correct me ;)

Thats correct.And no less than an inch either, or in fore gear the prop boss is liable to rub on the outboard bearing,due to the flexibility of the engine mounts and coupling.Also would make it difficult to remove string,fishing line ect from it.bizzard

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I am going to the boat tomorrow and will get the numbrs, bought two spares just in case, these have done 120 hours up to now and no leaks

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I am going to the boat tomorrow and will get the numbrs, bought two spares just in case, these have done 120 hours up to now and no leaks

Superb :)

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Information on oil seals is TC 30 47 7 TTO D 724 I take it 30 to be shaft dia 47 outside dia and 7 width the rest i have no idea

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Information on oil seals is TC 30 47 7 TTO D 724 I take it 30 to be shaft dia 47 outside dia and 7 width the rest i have no idea

 

Brlliant, thank you.

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I too have a water cooled/lubricated stern tube, but not sure of its make. Engine is Barras Shire in a 57' East-West hull. In general I think the arrangement is much better than the traditional gear and for over 500hours there was never a drop of water in the bilge. However, last year on the Rochdale I picked up a load of fishing line and plastic sheet, first sign was squealing from the shaft so I stopped right away. Cleared it but since then the seal has leaked about half a litre every 4-6hours (depending on revs). Last week we had a four & half hour slog up the tidal Trent at 2000rpm and now she's letting in about 3-litres an hour. 1000 hours on the boat now, from other correspondence this seems a bit low for these seals - any thoughts? Also, I'm certain that the water enters through the strern tube, and returns to the weed hatch, not the other way round. Only way I can see of changing the seal is to take the shaft out.

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I too have a water cooled/lubricated stern tube, but not sure of its make. Engine is Barras Shire in a 57' East-West hull. In general I think the arrangement is much better than the traditional gear and for over 500hours there was never a drop of water in the bilge. However, last year on the Rochdale I picked up a load of fishing line and plastic sheet, first sign was squealing from the shaft so I stopped right away. Cleared it but since then the seal has leaked about half a litre every 4-6hours (depending on revs). Last week we had a four & half hour slog up the tidal Trent at 2000rpm and now she's letting in about 3-litres an hour. 1000 hours on the boat now, from other correspondence this seems a bit low for these seals - any thoughts? Also, I'm certain that the water enters through the strern tube, and returns to the weed hatch, not the other way round. Only way I can see of changing the seal is to take the shaft out.

 

 

I believe that the way you change these seals involves removing the propshaft half-coupling, and slipping the seals over the inboard end on the shaft.

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I believe that the way you change these seals involves removing the propshaft half-coupling, and slipping the seals over the inboard end on the shaft.

That is how I understand it. I wonder if the cutlass bearing might have copped it too under these circumstances? The first few mm of mine is absent after an argument with a piece of nylon rope.

 

S4022037.jpg

Edited by catweasel
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