Building in bulkheads/walls

[Frankieboy]

I will soon b putting in an internal wall round the bathroom and was wondering what options there are for doing it.

It will be aply wall and was planning on building a frame and screwing the ply to it. The problem is, if I put a baton across the floor to screw the bottom of the ply to, how do I hide it?

Also, how do I make the rest of the frame invisible, short of building a "double wall"?

Not sure I want to get thick ply and just screw it edge to edge, would rather have a solid frame to work off.

[Nose Miner]

Is there a particular reason you don't want a double wall? I always use a stud frame with 25mm timber and screw 18mm sheets either side - ends up being 61mm thick, but at least it doesn't wobble as a thinner wall probably will!. Also you can run any cabling insdie the wall.

Edited June 12, 2011 by Nose Miner

[Ryeland]

Use 18mm ply or blockboard. The joints to cabin side and ceiling can be secured with beading which will be needed anyway to cover the joint. On the floor, use small metal angle brackets recessed into the ply and floor, then covered with the skirting board and flooring. If you are having a 'walk in' bathroom with a corridor, the joint of the two walls will be very rigid.

 

Bear in mind that as the side of the boat warms up in the sun, it will bow outwards slightly, so attach the beadings ONLY to the cabin side, so they slide on the bulkhead wall. Otherwise it just pulls apart.

 

Can't profess to be an expert, but this has worked well on my fit out.

 

Richard

[Frankieboy]

Interesting, 2 different methods. I dont want twin walls as its twice as much ply, and uses a little more space.

The angle brackets make sense as they're more discrete. I have a load of 1.5" square batons I was going to use but these would be much ore obtrusive.

[Chalky]

I used 18mm ply for the bulkheads. I drilled the tops and used an insert with a spike in it to mark the ceiling when I fitted the bulkhead. I then drilled the ceiling and fitted dowels in the holes. At the bottom I fitted a batton on the floor which I then screwed the bulkhead to. The battens were hidden in bed bases or cupboards. If it could be hidden in a cupboard I fitted a batten at the top instead of using dowels.

I then attached pine T&G to the bulkhead and fitted a U shaped capping routered out of 44mm * 25mm timber. Very solid, but with 3 children it needs to be.

[NBMike]

I used 25x18 pine with 9mm ply both sides. It makes a very rigid wall and allowed me to conceal show feeds within cavity.

Mike

[brev]

24mm x 40mm timber is cheap to buy.

Build an external frame and then infill with crossing, half lapped braces. This ensures you have the exact profile of the floor, walls and ceiling. Remove the frame from it's location and lay flat on the floor. Draw round the frame onto the back of your chosen ply wood wall material. Cut out the shape and fix to the frame with no nails, clamps and weights. Repeat for the other side.

I've used this to build 5 bulkheads in my boat. They are strong, slim and cheap.

[nb Innisfree]

I used 18mm WBP ply, fixed it like this, a section of ply underneath lets you screw floor down either side of bulkhead, secures bulkhead in place and allows floor on one side to be lifted without disturbing bulkhead.

 

[Steve Goddard]

You can always use pockethole screws. Jigs from Kreg Kreg or from Trend. You can even get plugs to totally hide the screws Plugs and the real benefit is that you can demount the whole thing if you ever need to. They are also incredibly useful for carcassing

 

 

Steve