Stern gear, standard stuffing box or greaseless?

[charles123]

I am about to fit the rearmost stern shaft to my boat build. it has the standard stern gear in place with the stuffing box. In previous boats I have gone the conventional way with stuffing box and greaser, so daily would wind the greaser down to stop the drips. However I understand there are alternatives that do not have to be greased daily and presumably don't drip. Is this a Water lubricated Cutlass bearing. From Vetus web site is says "Polyurethane-rubber lining. Outer bushings made of brass" What else if anything do I need to complete the installation?

 

Anyone recommend these?

 

Or are there others?

 

Appreciate thoughts please

 

Charles

[nb Innisfree]

Probably not much good to you if you have decided to go this route but a properly installed conventional stern greaser shouldn't drip any way, turning the greaser lubricates the shaft, it's not really there to stop drips, the stuffing gland does that. Our gland doesn't drip at all though I think this is helped by the fact we have a Python Drive which stops any lateral movement of the shaft. Having said all that a small amount of grease does find it's way to the stuffing gland and, I think, helps with the seal.

[Ark Right]

I am about to fit the rearmost stern shaft to my boat build. it has the standard stern gear in place with the stuffing box. In previous boats I have gone the conventional way with stuffing box and greaser, so daily would wind the greaser down to stop the drips. However I understand there are alternatives that do not have to be greased daily and presumably don't drip. Is this a Water lubricated Cutlass bearing. From Vetus web site is says "Polyurethane-rubber lining. Outer bushings made of brass" What else if anything do I need to complete the installation?

 

Anyone recommend these?

 

Or are there others?

 

Appreciate thoughts please

 

Charles

 

Volvo Deep Sea seal is another, very reliable I believe. The main downfall with this type of water lubricated bearing and seal assembly is fishing line, apparently it can play havoc with bearing.

I know of one quality boat building company who has used the grease- less types for over 10 years, swears by em.

[steelaway]

I am about to fit the rearmost stern shaft to my boat build. it has the standard stern gear in place with the stuffing box. In previous boats I have gone the conventional way with stuffing box and greaser, so daily would wind the greaser down to stop the drips. However I understand there are alternatives that do not have to be greased daily and presumably don't drip. Is this a Water lubricated Cutlass bearing. From Vetus web site is says "Polyurethane-rubber lining. Outer bushings made of brass" What else if anything do I need to complete the installation?

 

Anyone recommend these?

 

Or are there others?

 

Appreciate thoughts please

 

Charles

 

 

Hi

 

I thought about one of these Vetus water lubed stern glands but didn't like the idea of the mud and grit going through it. Ok for the sae and lakes but not the canals?

 

Alex

[Guest]

Hi

 

I thought about one of these Vetus water lubed stern glands but didn't like the idea of the mud and grit going through it. Ok for the sae and lakes but not the canals?

 

Alex

Edit: Sorry quoted wrong post

 

Hi Charles

 

I have the Vetus "greaserless" unit (it does require a little SILICON grease once in a while,I do it at engine oil change time so that I remember, easily applied with a syringe, takes 5 mins. Can be done afloat no probs.in my experience.)

 

I have found the Vetus unit to be very reliable and watertight, except for a little drop when reversing for long distances. I never get a single drop over winter. Good engine alignment is essential as they can drip if it goes out (my Vetus engine mount shook loose, and it was a drip from the seal that gave the game away; of course this was not the seal to blame.)

 

Only slight snag to report is that I got a piece of nylon rope around the shaft about three years ago and it burned the first two or three mm of the rubber bearing away. this made no difference to the bearing, and at last drydock the situation was no worse. See pic.

 

When things need replacing on this stern gear it is more expensive than conventional gear, although I have needed to replace nothing yet. I am told that the inner seal can be replaced afloat, and is over £120. Mine is 7 years old now and about 2000 hrs on the clock.

 

I wasn't too sure about this stern gear when I first bought the shell, but must say it has grown on me.

 

Hope this is of some help.

 

 

 

My setup is controversial as it has an R and D flexible coupling; some say it shouldn't have:

 

Even though Vetus show one in their catalogue!

Edited March 21, 2011 by Guest

[steelaway]

Edit: Sorry quoted wrong post

 

Hi Charles

 

I have the Vetus "greaserless" unit (it does require a little SILICON grease once in a while,I do it at engine oil change time so that I remember, easily applied with a syringe, takes 5 mins. Can be done afloat no probs.in my experience.)

 

I have found the Vetus unit to be very reliable and watertight, except for a little drop when reversing for long distances. I never get a single drop over winter. Good engine alignment is essential as they can drip if it goes out (my Vetus engine mount shook loose, and it was a drip from the seal that gave the game away; of course this was not the seal to blame.)

 

Only slight snag to report is that I got a piece of nylon rope around the shaft about three years ago and it burned the first two or three mm of the rubber bearing away. this made no difference to the bearing, and at last drydock the situation was no worse. See pic.

 

When things need replacing on this stern gear it is more expensive than conventional gear, although I have needed to replace nothing yet. I am told that the inner seal can be replaced afloat, and is over £120. Mine is 7 years old now and about 2000 hrs on the clock.

 

I wasn't too sure about this stern gear when I first bought the shell, but must say it has grown on me.

 

Hope this is of some help.

 

 

 

My setup is controversial as it has an R and D flexible coupling; some say it shouldn't have:

 

Even though Vetus show one in their catalogue!

 

 

 

 

Seems like I was worried unduly - 7 years is a good recomendation - and think of the money in grease you have saved.

 

Alex

[bargemast]

Seems like I was worried unduly - 7 years is a good recomendation - and think of the money in grease you have saved.

 

Alex

 

 

And the grease that didn't end up in the canal.

 

Peter.

[Guest]

Seems like I was worried unduly - 7 years is a good recomendation - and think of the money in grease you have saved.

 

Alex

The previous boat had a conventional setup and TBH I didn't mind that at all. One thing with the Vetus and similar setups is that they prevent grease from finding its way into the cut.

 

I think there are pros and cons with both methods. I have heard fears of the vetus seal failing, and water gushing into the boat, which the bilge pump may not be able to cope with. A one time forum member undid the seal on his Vetus unit whilst afloat, and reported that about 1 litre per minute came into the boat, but that was with the seal removed, not damaged, so I assume the intake would be less.

 

I understand that a greased rag will stop water intake whilst the seal is changed afloat, but have never done this (yet.)

 

And the grease that didn't end up in the canal.

 

Peter.

Agreed, you beat me to it

[david and julie]

We have the Volvo seal, its 6 years old and has been OK so far.

 

Maintenance is limited to a blob of Volvo grease once a year and "burping" - the term Volvo use for expelling any air from the seal after dry docking.

 

http://www.volvopent...Box%20(Eng).pdf

[Woollymishka]

We have a PSS greaseless system with aquadrive

No problems and needs a silicone blob once a year (if that?) highly recommended.

[pearley]

We have the Volvo seal, its 6 years old and has been OK so far.

 

Maintenance is limited to a blob of Volvo grease once a year and "burping" - the term Volvo use for expelling any air from the seal after dry docking.

 

http://www.volvopent...Box%20(Eng).pdf

How do you get the grease into the rubber sleeve. I find it very difficult to squeeze the sleeve at the same time as trying to squeeze the tube of grease. I've only managed it once in 4 years.

 

Regards

Pete

[david and julie]

How do you get the grease into the rubber sleeve. I find it very difficult to squeeze the sleeve at the same time as trying to squeeze the tube of grease. I've only managed it once in 4 years.

 

Regards

Pete

 

Not easy is it Peter.

 

I use a plastic drinking straw - put some grease in the straw then flatten the end - put some grease on the flattened end - gently slip the flattened ended between the shaft and the seal - lay the rest of the straw along shaft - run finger along straw and it will force some grease in.

 

Not the best description really but hopefully you get the idea.

 

I've been told you can also use a syringe.

Edited March 22, 2011 by david and julie