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real_vibes

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I am currenty looking at a 21 Yo mike Haywood with a new 6m base plate and a healthy survey. The boat has new 12v throughout, new gas, oven, plumbing, lots of oak and brass, new bathroom with great shower if a little small, casset loo, oak flooring, lister engine (mid engine room) very clean and tidy and a quick starter.

 

Am I mad to be considering 27k for it or does that seem fairly average?

Edited by real_vibes
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I am currenty looking at a 27 Yo mike Haywood with a new 6m base plate and a healthy survey. The boat has new 12v throughout, new gas, oven, plumbing, lots of oak and brass, new bathroom with great shower if a little small, casset loo, oak flooring, lister engine (mid engine room) very clean and tidy and a quick starter.

 

Am I mad to be considering 27k for it or does that seem fairly average?

 

Difficult to say without having any idea about length. Link perhaps?

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You may not have noticed. It's in the title as a 45 footer.

 

Martyn

Beat me to it.

 

Derrrr!

 

I'd best go back to painting back cabins then.

 

Do you like the boat? Will it do what you want it to do? The price seems a bit over to me but it is difficult to say. What did the survey suggest?

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The boats suits my needs very well and has been finished to a very high standard. Survey suggests less than 10% loss on the sides since creation and where the base plate had suffered it has had a brand new 6m sheet welded on + 4 new anodes and a fresh blacking all in mid 09

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Personally I don't think it's far off the mark price wise.

 

Once again without seeing it....

 

If you like it and it 'turns yer prop', then the old calculation of it's worth what you want to pay.

 

It is certainly not extortionate, in my 'I know nowt' bracket.

 

Martyn

 

Did you see what I did there, a disclaimer.

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The boats suits my needs very well and has been finished to a very high standard. Survey suggests less than 10% loss on the sides since creation and where the base plate had suffered it has had a brand new 6m sheet welded on + 4 new anodes and a fresh blacking all in mid 09

 

Is this survey one you commissioned?

 

Richard

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It sounds well over the top to me for a boat of that length and age, but the detail you have given is frankly so scant that it is impossible for anyone to give a reliable opinion.

 

It's not usually the base-plates of steel narrow-boats that go first - often the hull sides thin heavily at waterline long before a reasonable thickness baseplate would rust though.

 

So what's the story ?

 

Old bottom cut off, and replaced, or 6mm of new baseplate welded over original ?

 

If it has needed that, does it have overplating on the sides too, and if not, why has the bottom required it, but not the bits that come into contact with more oxygen ?

 

EDITED:

 

To acknowledge that you have added some more information whilst I was writing this....

Edited by alan_fincher
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No the survey is not mine it was his and was provided with reciept for the work carried out post survey (mid 09).

 

Entire base plate replaced so new sacrificial edge etc.

 

 

I beleave it was welded on top. What is more preferable? I shalll have to check that.

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No the survey is not mine it was his and was provided with reciept for the work carried out post survey (mid 09).

 

Entire base plate replaced so new sacrificial edge etc.

 

Wow, are you sure? It's usual to just weld a set of shoes - a strip of metal perhaps 6" wide - to the bottom of the edge of the hull. A complete re bottoming would be a huge job and quite uncommon, I think.

 

You know, you really need your own survey here to give you the information and advice you need.

 

Richard

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If the survey is actually telling the truth that the maximum steel lost from the sides in 27 years is only 10% of the thickness, I really can't imagine why a whole new baseplate could have been required.

 

This story would worry me!

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If the survey is actually telling the truth that the maximum steel lost from the sides in 27 years is only 10% of the thickness, I really can't imagine why a whole new baseplate could have been required.

 

This story would worry me!

We had a new baseplate on our narrowboat, 3 years ago, not because of corrosion, because the chine? (part of the baseplate that overhangs he sides) was worn away and almost flush with the sides.

 

The boat is an exhire boat so had more wear in this area the surveyor suggested.

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On my 5% rule the boat would have a present day build cost of about 95000 - is it that standard?

On the amended rule that boats don't lose any more after 20 years it is equivalent to a present day 75000 boat.

Caveat - the rules are probably wrong :lol:

 

John

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We had a new baseplate on our narrowboat, 3 years ago, not because of corrosion, because the chine? (part of the baseplate that overhangs he sides) was worn away and almost flush with the sides.

 

The boat is an exhire boat so had more wear in this area the surveyor suggested.

As Richard has indicated, the normal remedy to this is "shoes" - namely ove-rplating just along the chine areas.

 

Most of the bottom should not be much thinned, so, on the face of it, over-plating the whole of it sounds an over-engineered solution to the problem,

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As Richard has indicated, the normal remedy to this is "shoes" - namely ove-rplating just along the chine areas.

 

Most of the bottom should not be much thinned, so, on the face of it, over-plating the whole of it sounds an over-engineered solution to the problem,

Maybe it needed more ballast :lol:

 

Tony

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£27k seems too much for a 21 year old 45ft Mike Heywood boat. I know they are pretty boats and have their fans, but given the blokes reputation for cutting corners on construction, I would have a full hull survey undertaken by a Surveyor.

 

I suspect that it has not had a new bottom but had new shoe plates added, If it has had a new bottom, I would want a lot more information and evidence of who did what work before proceeding.

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What if the boat was well blacked and looked after but.....

 

Poor access resulted in water inside the hill causing corrosion?

 

I have been emailed the reciept and it states new 6mm plate and is from a reputable builder.

 

Well, if the boat was unprotected on the inside and continuously full of water, the hull would rot through. But you'd also have a wrecked interior from the condensation.

 

A hull survey will tell you what the state of the hull is.

 

Richard

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Well, if the boat was unprotected on the inside and continuously full of water, the hull would rot through. But you'd also have a wrecked interior from the condensation.

 

A hull survey will tell you what the state of the hull is.

 

Richard

 

 

As I'm in the process of stripping my boat back to the metal, to check the insides for rust etc, and to paint them again with red oxide, I have found out that it is all to easy for water to get inside, and that is what does the damage. Luckily my boat was pretty well painted on the inside, but there are still a few places where the hull has been affected.

 

A hull survey will tell you what state the bits of the hull that the surveyor can see are in. The surveyor will not look behind/under anything that is fixed, or heavier than a plastic bag (an empty one..). The survey will also state that 'not all the hull was accessible', and therefore the condition could not be fully ascertained... I believe that is called a 'get out of jail free card'.

If you are commissioning a survey, try to be there yourself, and try to check the boat before it is presented. It is quite frankly astonishing how poorly presented (I'm tempering my language here..) some vendors will take a boat for a survey... you'd think they don't really want to sell their boat...

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