Mooring

[Naughty Cal]

Following much discussion on previous threads about boats being moved excessively by passing boats im interested as to how you lot THINK your boats should be moored up. Im sure there will be many variations on this however interest has got the better of me.

 

I shall go first as i have started. Here goes.

 

We always make sure we are tied off in at least 3 places, preferably front, rear and mid. By that i mean we have used two ropes, one from bow to a suitable anchoring point/mooring ring just in front of the boat, this rope is tied off then passed back to the mid cleat and secured. The stern rope is then secured to a mooring point adjacent to the rear cleat (to aid easy access onto the boat) before being either passed back onto the mooring point and then secured to the middle cleat or if avaliable secured to a mooring point midway along the boat.

 

If that sounds a little complicated here is a pic to help.

 

 

Using this technique we have never had an uncomfortable time be it with passing boats, weather, changing tides etc. The ropes do their work and keep the boat in the right position without putting too much strain on the ropes or the cleats.

[Strads]

Tadge simplistic ?

 

Assumes you have suitable rings / bollards..

 

The most preferable is to put a loop through a ring and then tie off to your cleat etc using a suitable knot - that can be undone relatively easily after being tighten by tensioned by the pull of passing boats etc..

by tieing off on your boat you probably put of 90% of the toe-rags that might untie you on their way home from the pub.. as they might think twice about clambering around on a boat trying to untie you

 

(dosent stop the b@ggers cutting your rope though)

 

 

However I would think the bigger problem with mooring is when people use stakes - almost universally most people have placed them vertically into the ground - the best mechanical advantage is to have the stake at 90o to the mooring rope line when its positioned an tensioned. (in the vertical plane)

You then need to tie or loop your rope about the stake at ground level. that reduces any countering leverage -

 

The metal d rings on some are only worth using if they are very close to the ground...

 

I generally try and get a bow and stern rope at approx 45 degrees to the bank or less - 90degress leaves little room for movement if there is any "flow". but otherwise between these angle where the ground seems most suitable

 

 

We rarely use a middle rope unless we feel that the ground (and by that the stake placement) is not 100% sound. and

have that as "insurance".. in case one end gives up...

 

 

We have had the "ARMCO" hooks lift out a couple of times when given a good passing wash but overall they are ok, but find that using a chain with a large O-ring though which a smaller O ring fits the best as when tied off cant come out from behind the armco/railing etc..

[Naughty Cal]

So two ropes at between 90 and 45 degrees from bow and stern. OK.

[FadeToScarlet]

Depending on the situation, but generally two ropes, one from the tee stud and one from a mooring dolly at the stern. Angles vary depending on rings, bollards etc., but generally between 90 degrees and 45 degrees from the centreline of the boat.

 

If there's lots of rowing traffic then I'll put springs out too, and occasionally breast ropes. Doesn't stop the boat pitching up then down about 6 inches, and moving too and fro for a few feet whenever a sufficiently powerful Eight comes along.

 

I think that a lot of the "Slow Down!" crowd would change their tune about what levels of boat movement are normal and acceptable if they spent one of the forthcoming mornings here on the Cam...

[Heffalump]

One line each bow and stern, each line to have a bight on the end. Bight over tee stud. FROM boat, AROUND post/pin or THROUGH ring and BACK to boat. Round turn (stem of tee) figure eight (or add a twist to make it into a clove hitch) and another round turn. that will hold the earth.

[Naughty Cal]

Tis all becoming clear why so many moan about their boat moving when others pass.

[mayalld]

Tis all becoming clear why so many moan about their boat moving when others pass.

 

Yes, we know about spring lines.

 

The problem is that setting them can be tricky.

[paulcatchpole]

Following much discussion on previous threads about boats being moved excessively by passing boats im interested as to how you lot THINK your boats should be moored up. Im sure there will be many variations on this however interest has got the better of me.

 

I'll happily admit that ours is moored "with ropes, sometimes stakes, sometimes piling hooks and with little skill". Mind you, I'm definitely not bothered if someone waterskis past and I have to paddle to shore again...!

 

Must try and re-learn some of these sorts of skills - I get by at the moment by being a little too laissez faire!

 

Despite my slightly flippant post, it's a top idea for a thread, Phylis - I might even learn from it!

 

PC

[Naughty Cal]

Yes, we know about spring lines.

 

The problem is that setting them can be tricky.

 

Why is setting a spring tricky. It takes a little longer than throwing two lines out and hoping for the best, but surely ensuring you have a comfortable evening and your boat is safely moored is a better option.

 

Plus most youth cant be arsed to untie the ropes from four places.

[Athy]

Mr. Lump's method sounds similar to what we do. When possible we use those safety-pin-shaped things which slot behind the armco, which leads me to ask: what are they called. We have always known them as "grommets" but Mrs. Athy has lately taken to calling them "sproggets", both of which are pleasant names but doubtless totally inaccurate.

[mayalld]

Mr. Lump's method sounds similar to what we do. When possible we use those safety-pin-shaped things which slot behind the armco, which leads me to ask: what are they called. We have always known them as "grommets" but Mrs. Athy has lately taken to calling them "sproggets", both of which are pleasant names but doubtless totally inaccurate.

 

Mrs M calls them paperclips

[Heffalump]

Mr. Lump's method sounds similar to what we do. When possible we use those safety-pin-shaped things which slot behind the armco, which leads me to ask: what are they called. We have always known them as "grommets" but Mrs. Athy has lately taken to calling them "sproggets", both of which are pleasant names but doubtless totally inaccurate.

 

Them's called piling hooks (pile-ing) cos thems are hooks wot slide behind the piling

[Naughty Cal]

Them's called piling hooks (pile-ing) cos thems are hooks wot slide behind the piling

 

Clever. That name will never catch on. Far too simplistic.

[Heffalump]

Clever. That name will never catch on. Far too simplistic.

 

Or was that merely the way I said it what?

[journeyperson]

Them's called piling hooks (pile-ing) cos thems are hooks wot slide behind the piling

 

I've seen them advertised as armco hooks. I use them when possible if rings are not available. They clank a bit when the boat moves on the mooring but that's quite a good reminder to the passing boat that maybe he is going a bit fast. I know when I set them clanking I slow down a bit more.

 

I sometimes think that most threads could be merged into one!

[Naughty Cal]

I sometimes think that most threads could be merged into one!

 

Well i did try and seperate them

[carlt]

Well i did try and seperate them

A bucket of ice cold water usually does the trick.

 

Just two ropes, to 3' pins, if it's just an overnight stop but springs if I'm moored for any length of time.

 

If I'm boating, however, I accept that everyone I pass may be on their first trip out, so I slow down, assuming they are not as experienced with ropes, as me.

Edited September 10, 2009 by carlt

[mykaskin]

They clank a bit when the boat moves on the mooring but that's quite a good reminder to the passing boat that maybe he is going a bit fast.

 

If they clang, then your ropes are too loose! On a canal which you don't expect to change in water level then the ropes should be as tight as you can make them. There will then be no movement (perhaps a little drop and/or roll as the boat passes), and there will be no snatching of the ropes to pull out pins (when in use) or bumping of the boat.

 

I nearly always only use two lines (two springs effectively), either going outwards from the boat or going inwards if the location of fixing points are such. So long as both are tight there hasn't been any real problems. Sometimes ropes will stretch, and if onboard just retighten the lines as needed until they stretch no more!

 

Of course you can add many more ropes, and mooring on moving water (tidal) requires a different strategy.

 

<edit>Learn to use a canalman's (lighterman, tugman's) hitch - it's about the only safe way to tie a boat</edit>

 

Cheers,

 

Mike

Edited September 10, 2009 by mykaskin

[Naughty Cal]

Tying boats too tight can also be detrimental to the "ride" when boats go past. There is a fine line between tight and too tight, hence why springs are the most effective way of reducing movement. The ropes work together to limit the movement.

[journeyperson]

If they clang, then your ropes are too loose!

 

 

They clang because the hook moves about in the armco, nothing to do with loose ropes, I wouldn't want them any tighter.

[Lesd]

I generally use just two ropes also but as a rule I like them a little longer than most people seem to set them and go for shallower angle along the bank away from the boat, a bit like a spring but running in the opposite direction, seems to work well. The angle is much less than 45 degrees (when standing by the pin and measuring between rope and bank).

 

Also we use quite large air filled fenders between boat and bank, any fast passing boats that do move us around cant really be felt as the fenders absorb the sharp bumps you can get without them. Its amazing how many times you only notice your moving by looking out of the window and seeing it, you cant feel a thing (this is a ten foot wide boat so rocking isn't an issue).

 

edit to say, I generally bang in pins at a slight angle so that the rope is coming off them at 90 degrees to the pin shaft, also always bang a second pin through the eye of the first pin, makes a huge difference and its never been pulled free since I started doing that even of softish ground.

Edited September 10, 2009 by Lesd

[Hieronymus Bosh]

Hi all.. still new, and reading like mad.. a very short answer would suffice please? rather than being told to go search? ummm... what are "springs" please?

[carlt]

Hi all.. still new, and reading like mad.. a very short answer would suffice please? rather than being told to go search? ummm... what are "springs" please?

 

The red lines are springs.

[Naughty Cal]

Hi all.. still new, and reading like mad.. a very short answer would suffice please? rather than being told to go search? ummm... what are "springs" please?

 

Additional ropes added to reduce the movement of the boat or provide extra security on flowing waters. They are a great aid to not getting p*ssed off every time another boat goes past A good one to learn.

[carlt]

Additional ropes added to reduce the movement of the boat or provide extra security on flowing waters.

Though they are no use at reducing the rapid change in water depth, as a boat speeds past. Their principal function being to stop forward/backward motion, whilst allowing the boat to rise and fall with the tide, which is why they are not often used, on the canals.