The build and fit out of Julynian 2004

[Ex- Member]

Have a nice few days on the boat so cracking on with the remainder of work. Cleaned the engine room today, really dirty at it's mostly been used to store stuff whilst we're fitting out on dry land. What with all the dust and grime from works it was a mess. We steam cleaned the engine a cleaned down the rest of the engine compartment.

 

Engine room now ready for the battery bank to be fitted as discussed on the forum. Many thanks to smileypete and others for their help and advice, it's been invaluable and I'm pretty confident that the leisure bank of 8 x 6 volt 232 amp batteries will serve us well, especially as I'll be making sure regular maintenance will be strictly adhered to.

 

In the photo below there's a Grey battery box made from industrial grade polypropylene, 2 of these will house the 8 x 6 v batteries and fit side by side snugly under the stern. The batteries are actually a couple of inches higher than the grey box as originally they were bought for standard batteries. Fortunately I can get some shallow vented Poly P boxes to fit over the top to create a vented cover. The vented boxes (same material) will fit exactly on top as they are a standard footprint size. I just need to notch out where necessary for cabling and find a way of securing them.

 

 

Photo taken from back cabin.

 

Battery Box Cover

 

Above the battery box is some steel angle part of the boats structure. I plan to fit a small marine ply panel to this so that the positive and negative posts that accept the equal length cables from the batteries will be affixed to.

 

Batteries should be here end of the month, I'll update further when fitted.

 

I'm also planning a made up generator set which I intend to fit on the other side of the engine room. I'm thinking either an old Lister 3HP driving possibly a 90 amp alternator. Other option might be a more modern Yanmar 3.5 HP set up the same. This is a project that probably won't be completed by the time we want to be back on the water in June, so a portable generator will probably be used until a fixed unit made up and installed.

 

To Right of engine room from back cabin.

 

Some more engine room photo's

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most of the 12 volt and 240 volt electrics are behind the panelling on the same side as proposed battery box.

 

Engine room opposite side

 

If you look at the steel work you'll see the lugs that accept lengths of angle Iron which we then floored with 25mm thick decking that entirely covers the left hand side of the engine room. It all sectional and is easily removed for access to engine.

 

The three batteries currently in-situ and connected will be removed and the 2 best ones doubled up to create a big starter battery. 5 batteries have already been removed and they're being checked out if they're still usable and hold charge, if so I'll sell them off cheap but only locally in devises as postage probably wouldn't be worth it for used batteries.

 

The back cabin is basically finished just needs a tidy up and a bit of trim to finish off, should be done by the weekend so more photo's to follow shortly.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 29, 2012 by Julynian

[bargemast]

Nice job Julian, I'm glad to see that there is progress again, and hope that you'll be lucky enough to find the perfect small electric starting diesel engine, or a complete set to supply you with battery charging power shortly.

 

Peter.

[Ex- Member]

It's been a good weekend, lots sorted out and theback cabin basically finished. Just a door to fit, plug some holes and routersome trim. Later I'll be fitting a bench top shelf along the Oak cabin wall, itwill fold upwards and flat to the wall when unused, future project though,priority now is painting externally and shot blasting and blacking the Hullwith Jotun

 

The boat's now been cleared of anything that won't be on board with uson the water, so probably half a ton lighter well it felt like it anyway.

 

First photo entering the utility room from boat's cabin side. Door yetto be fitted here.

 

 

To the far left as you walk in is the large under bed trolley box Ibuilt for useful storage space. 7f/t long and 2f/t 6" wide on heavy duty castors. An Oak panel will be fitted to the trolley front so when closed it'll match the wall, possibly with cup handles or just finger slots cut out.

 

 

 

 

This is the sink unit, originally a free standing unit from IKEA allstainless steel. Quite a flimsy unit when free standing but fitted in it'ssolid as a rock. I used left over polypropylene curved around the waste and fitted each end to the frame and Oak rail I fitted to the back to accommodate. Imanaged to fit the full IKEA bottle trap system mainly because the sink is set3 inches higher than a standard kitchen sink, we did the same in the galley. As unitsset higher like this don't cause backache when washing up & preparing food (well for us anyway) The remaining gap is for the twin tub washing machine and other cleaningequipment.

 

 

View from engine room door to boat cabins.

 

 

The engine rooms 4mm steel bulkhead has been lined with 6mmpolypropylene sheet fitted to 15mm MDF board screwed to 2" thick battensfilled with Rockwool insulation. Good sound insulating wall to cut down enginenoise. The engine room door is marine ply 30mm thick with mortise lock coveredwith 5mm thick Brass plate. The door edge is trimmed with mm thick Redwood.

 

 

The Blue mouldings are solid Nylon-plastic moulding 15mm thick by 40mmwide, bevelled at each top face edge. I bought a job lot of this stuff for 12quid around 45 metres of it. All fitted with top grade stainless Steel screws.

Next up painting the boat roof weather permitting.

 

 

Edited April 1, 2012 by Julynian

[lewisericeric]

Julian - wow what can one say?! Your fit out is amazing and testament to your hard work over 7 years. How your patience and love has gone into that for 7 years. I bought this place 7 months ago and some days think I've had it with fitting out although its starting to look pretty good now too.

 

Just painted my boat roof - good luck with it. I changed ours from the red to a cream for a more elegant look and to help with keeping cool. Not sure i've succeeded in either area though as there's shit loads of flies that were sticking to it when I was painting! Still I think most will most will come off with a brush without affecting the finish too much!

[bargemast]

Great to see these photo's of your progress, it looks as if the job is almost done.

 

Good luck with the last stages.

 

Peter.

[Ex- Member]

Cheers Peter & Lewis

 

It's been a long haul that's for sure The next month will be slow progress as I have a funeral and wedding in Scotland to attend in April and some other family commitments so it'll be late June at the earliest. Plus I have to arrange the shot blaster who can be quite busy and sometimes needs a few weeks notice.

 

Our boat roof will be Cream also for the same reason you,ve chosen Lewis. The key is picking the right time to paint. No wind No sun not too hot or cold. Those type days are few and far between, so we'll prepare the roof and just wait for the right day to paint. The internal finishing off we have to do can be done on rainy days so we should be on course.

 

Anyway keep at it Lewis, it does get daunting sometimes and some jobs are tedious like plugging hundreds of Oak holes

 

More updates coming soon.

[Ex- Member]

Well the past 2 months have been quite hectic but we're getting there.

 

The battery bank is now fully fitted and running. 6 x US2200 v 232 amp paired up to 12 volts 696 amps. The installation took a lot longer than expected mainly due to changing plans and getting some good advice from some really good advice from forum members nicknorman - smileypete & by'eck amongst others, their help has been invaluable and enabled and urged me to do a good job.

 

 

 

 

In conjunction with the battery bank is the solar array. 2 x 250 watt solar panels framed together to make a single array measuring 6f/t x 6f/t 6" Much of the work with this has been posted on the forum along with the battery bank.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The array will sit on a 14 inch diameter ball which is basically a buoy. This sits on a box with a stainless steel bowl that accepts the ball and enables full rotation and partial tilt of the array at every degree.

 

Link to battery cabling http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=46977&st=0

Link to Solar panel fitting http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=46249&st=0

[Ex- Member]

Further to this, all the major work on the interior is completely finished. There's odd jobs to do some varnishing and finishing off but basically we're there. We will post photo's of the finished internal cabins soon.

 

The past 2 weeks have been dedicated to painting the exterior of the boat, a job I've put off on far too many occasions. However the boat is going on the water and it has to be done. Fortunately a very good friend of mine is a painter, although I myself trained as a painter this was 30 years ago and I'm a little out of practice. My mate Dave though got me in to the swing of things, he works so fast and efficiently I could hardly keep up Anyway 3 good days last week and we made good progress. Fortunately the Red primer has held out really well, rust was minimal and 95% removed with an 80 grit DA sander, just a couple of bad bits in the cratch need a small 40 grit grinder to eliminate the worst and get it treated.

The centre of the roof is coated in Hammerite Cream, a full 13 litres was used giving 4 good thick spray coats and managing a nice orange peel effect to reduce the shine. Either side was double under coated on Red primer with 10 year International Gloss recommended undercoat followed with 2 coats of gloss the mix in grit used on the final coat. I found the grit to be a bit too harsh so have ordered another 2.5 litres to give an additional coat.

 

The bordering to the sides is again Hammerite Cream, 5 spray coats this time but a smoother finish. All the panels have been undercoated and will be dark Green 10Y Int Gloss minimum 2 coats with possibly a Black outline.

 

Stern is undercoated and most the cratch again a mixture of Cream & Green with the cant ib Black and some colour on the tiller arm. The gunwale to the rubbing strake will also be Hammerite Black, this won't be painted until the shot blasting is done sometime in early July though.

 

Progress so far looks like this

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Weather looks quite good the rest of this week so should get a lot more done. Will post again when finished.

[Ex- Member]

Well as posted on the forum, with my mate Daves' expert help, we've managed to get he sides finished, basically just the panels need bordering and the handrail pained.

 

 

Forunately Dave's Purdy's did the job ok. The Craftmaster went on well, you do have to be quick with this paint though, I can understand why it states on he tin professional use only. Fortunately with 2 of us on the job there were no drying on any edges, so a nice consistent coat all over, on side one just 2 small flies go through the net, side 2 though no flies at all, what a result. I have to say this Craftmaster paint does dry back really nice, you can't mess around with it though, roll on lay and off a 2 f/t span within a minuet and all will be well. We didn't thin or use Owatrol on the sides, but the cratch and stern areas we did which we think gave a bit more leeway with the paint.

 

At the end of the day all looks good and we're well happy with he result. The worst of the painting is now over, the rest I can handle myself at leisure, happy days, we might be on the water end July after all. Last big job is the hull shot blasting & painting.

 

 

Over the next couple of weeks the painting on the top side should be complete, then just the shot blasting and Blacking with Jotun. The boat needs to be raised a couple of feet to aid the shot blasting that can't be done until after the 9h July but hopefully soon after so we can get back on the water full time.

[Ex- Member]

Well Now we're getting somewhere, Next week the boat is being raised inreadiness for shot blasting, this will be done on Monday weather permitting.The shot blaster is booked in for Thursday or Friday, again weather permitting. I have my good friend Dave to help paint the hull.We're using Jotun 2 part epoxy. 1 coat Jotun barrier recommended forshotblasted surfaces, then 1 coats of Jomastic 87 followed by 2 coats ofHardtop AS Best part of 400 quid but should give some good 5 years protection ifnot more. This is the last big job, the bow stern & gunwale still needpainting but when done then the exterior if finished.

 

We've also been undertaking thefinishing touches internally. Lots of small jobs not quite completed forvarious reasons over the build. All systems are up and running except for thegenerator and fitting of solar panels which will be done nearer going on thewater in March. So it's mainly decorative and snagging work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Blue glass splashback has also beenfitted permanently and all the fixing holes plugged and Glass sealed into theOak with Neoprene strip.

 

 

Now deciding to stay on dry land foranother 6 months means the boat will be completely finished so when on thewater we can hopefully relax, although I'm sure some teething problems willarise.

 

Will be posting more photo's soon,especially the shot blasting and repainting of hull.

 

 

Edited September 23, 2012 by Julynian

[Ex- Member]

It's been a hard week, we had to ge the boat raised for the shoblaster and to gain access to the base plate. Stared lifting Tuesday morning with a 35Tjack, took all day and a couple more hours Wednesday. Soft ground held upprogress and having to dig out below he bow to get he jack in.

 

 

 

 

 

Also go hold of some good steps for access.

 

 

It's now up high enough and all ready for the shot blaster tomorrow. Mymate Dave will be assisting with the painting, we should have the first Jotunbarrier coat applied by the end of tomorrow even if it means working late,weathers forecast to not pretty good so will hopefully finish early.

 

 

 

The shot blaster will assess weather he can do the base plate when heretomorrow, fortunately only light rust is apparrent, most the millscale hasfallen away and what remains flakes off easily. I've rigged up some board toshield off the shotblaster whilst we're painting the opposite end, hopefullyi'll be enough to reduce the dust.

 

How the base plate looks after a quick wire brushing.

 

 

Other areas checked and nopitting anywhere so well pleased.

 

Also found time to fit the frontt headlights.

 

 

Definitely light at the end of the tunnel.

 

More shot blasting photo's tomorrow, weather permitting

Edited September 27, 2012 by Julynian

[Gibbo]

Has it really taken 8 years?

[Ex- Member]

Has it really taken 8 years?

 

Yeah I know, originally a 3 year planned fit out. We did have 18 months on the water following line out in mid 2005 but only managed partial fitting out before running short of space, that also combined with major changes in my business affairs, so we thought it sensible to put her on dry land and add another 2 years to the plan.

 

Unfortunately several family problems illnesses and bereavements ensued over that period with Lynns family and this last year up to as recently as 2 monhs ago witth my family having lost both my parents this year following debilitating illnesses. It's just made us more determined now, as mum and dad were so supportive of our plans and Dad used to look after the boat when we were back in Dorset which was a great help and gave us peace of mind, we're nearly finished now though, shot blasting and Blacking is the last big job, the rest of the work is basically finishing touches some exterior painting, snagging and a few small projects, we did want to get on the water this summer, but have decided to use the winter period to completely finish everything on the boat and get on the water early next year and enjoy the boat without having to worry about finishing this that and the other and hopefully have some clemant weather.

 

Ours is certainly a cautionary tale for people embarking on a similar project, and it's not as if the project has been held up by lack of funds either, although the recession affected my business in such a way that we couldn't get to the boat regularily, having to concentrate fully on keeping the business afloat. I'm sure many projects finish in a good time scale, but such as life Sh1t happens and all he best plans in the world can go up in smoke.

 

Through it all though building this boat from a steel shell has given us a lot of pleasure and satisfaction as well as gaining a lot of knowledge. There's of course been lots of frustration along the way but little of it to do with this lovely boat.

 

 

 

[Gibbo]

Respect to you for carrying on. I think many people would have given up after having gone through that lot.

[Ex- Member]

What a day,

 

Boat's now been shotblasted and coated with a coat of Juton barrier primer. The shotblaster took just 6 hours and that included the base plate, I was amazed he could do it only having a 2 f/t clearance, he didn't get it as clean as the rest of the boat but clean enough to get a coat of primer on it thanks to my mate Dave.

 

9am Shoblaster arrives, a Polish chap called Peter. He's been doing the job for 7 years and loves it Just don't ask my why, it's a hell of a job IMO.

 

 

 

I liked the fact he started off with the difficult bits like the stern and chines.

 

 

Was amazed how quick the stern was completely stripped, about 15 minutes.

 

Within an hour he startted on the sides.

 

 

 

By 12 noon all the sides including chines and bow were completed.

 

 

The next couple of hours he concentrated on the base plate, and by 2.30 pm was finished.

 

Me and Dave hen cracked on with paintting after wiping the whole lott down with 5 litres of white spirit

 

 

Finished first coat at around 6pm including base plate. Many thanks to Dave for braving this under the boat.

 

 

 

Remaining 2 hours enabled us to get a coat of Jotamastis to the sides, all done 8pm.

 

Phew

[blackrose]

 

Me and Dave hen cracked on with paintting after wiping the whole lott down with 5 litres of white spirit

 

 

Really if you're goint to spirit wipe the surface you should use the thinners recommended for the paint system. In this case I think it's Jotun Thinners 17. I'm sure it will be ok, but residue from the white spirit could react with the paint.

 

 

 

 

Remaining 2 hours enabled us to get a coat of Jotamastis to the sides, all done 8pm.

 

Phew

 

This is an epoxy primer you're using? Your mate Dave doesn't believe in protective equipment does he.

 

I always used latex gloves when I was painting with Jotun two-part epoxy.

Edited September 29, 2012 by blackrose

[Ex- Member]

Really if you're goint to spirit wipe the surface you should use the thinners recommended for the paint system. In this case I think it's Jotun Thinners 17. I'm sure it will be ok, but residue from the white spirit could react with the paint.

 

 

 

 

 

This is an epoxy primer you're using? Your mate Dave doesn't believe in protective equipment does he.

 

I always used latex gloves when I was painting with Jotun two-part epoxy.

 

White spirit is a universal degreaser complies with Jottun's preparation requirement for Joun Barrier. "The surface should be assessed and treated in

accordance with ISO 8504"

 

Barrier cream.

 

 

 

 

[Ex- Member]

We managed to get a second coat of Jotamastic 87 on the hull sides, the rest of the boat now has at least one coat of barrier and Jota 87.

 

This paint is very easy to use, you get a good 2 hours before it goes off, and we haven't wasted a drop so far. What with the base plate being shot blasted as well we had to order more paint, total cost for paint now has hit £600 which includes thinners 17. We now have enough paint for an additional coat of jotamastic 87 all over, so the base plate will end up with 1 x barrier and 2 x 87. We also have 10 litres of hard top, I'll not be putting this on the baseplate though. We'll get one full coat to sides chine and stern, then there should be enough left for the sides only, so they'll end up with 6 coas in total, the chines and stern 5 coats and base plate 3 coats. A bit over the top, but the shotblasting only cost £400 inc vat, an absolute bargain for what we had done, so why not invest in extra protection as we had budgeted a grand anyway. I don't think we'll be out the water for quite some time. According to Jotun it's 14 years protection, although I'll be checking out the hull well before then

 

 

I would recommend this paint though, it really is thick and can be applied thickly and has a very solid finish when dry. My mate dave used to paint steelwork gantrys and cranes etc using 2 pack paints, he said he had never come across 2 pack this thick and easy to apply, likened it more to fibreglass resin

 

The barrier primer is much thinner but has much more coverage, when applied you understand why Jotun recommend this for blast cleanes surfaces. It seems to suck into the surface which initially feels like 100 grit sandpaper but when dry the abrasiveness of the steel mostly disappears, on close inspection we couldn't find anywhere where the barrier primer didn't cover fully, we did apply by roller and brush but were consious to brush all rollered paint in. The light grey in colour also ensures you fully cover when you second coat with the 87 if a darker colour of course.

 

I'm tempted to spray the hard top, mainly for speed of application but will procuce a smoother finish, all depends on how good a finish we get with the the last coat of 87. We actually prefer the roller finish as the brush strokes tend to be quite visible with the paint being so thick.

 

A tip for anyong using this paint, the Jotun No.17 thinners is ok for cleaning but sandard cellulose thinners is much better and quicker. So if you're intending to brush and roll you don't really need to thin the paint, cellulose thinners is less than half the price of Jottun 17.

 

Will post more photo's when finished.

[blackrose]

White spirit is a universal degreaser complies with Jottun's preparation requirement for Joun Barrier. "The surface should be assessed and treated in

accordance with ISO 8504"

 

I didn't know that. I think I would still have used the thinner they specify.

 

I would recommend this paint though, it really is thick and can be applied thickly and has a very solid finish when dry. My mate dave used to paint steelwork gantrys and cranes etc using 2 pack paints, he said he had never come across 2 pack this thick and easy to apply, likened it more to fibreglass resin

 

I've used Jotun 87 and as you say, it really is good stuff. We put the first (10% thinned) coat straight onto the bare steel though, and didn't use Barrier Primer.

 

Is this the stuff you used?

 

http://www.jotun.com/jotun/paints/20020020.nsf/wvwProductDatabase/823EEA15E44EAC07C12568FE002F1C0D/$file/TDS%20-%20Barrier%2077%20-%20English%20%28uk%29%20-%20Issued.05.10.2011.pdf

Edited September 30, 2012 by blackrose

[Ex- Member]

I didn't know that. I think I would still have used the thinner they specify.

 

 

 

I've used Jotun 87 and as you say, it really is good stuff. We put the first (10% thinned) coat straight onto the bare steel though, and didn't use Barrier Primer.

 

Is this the stuff you used?

 

http://www.jotun.com....05.10.2011.pdf

 

Hi br

 

Yeah that's the stuff has a high zinc content, it's 80 quid + a tin but has twice the coverage of J87 it comes in a 4 litre tin though. I had to buy another tin what with the base plate being done as well and as luck would have it, it was exactly the amount required to get a full coat on the entire hull and base plate which I calculated @ 100 sq M so the manufacturers rating of 12 to 13 sq M per Litre is pretty much spot on.

 

I think you're dead right to thin on first coat on steel J87, a definite thinning for application to shotblasted steel though as I don't believe it would cover 100% without excessive brushing. I would certainly recommend the barrier for shot blasted steel though and taking the coverage into consideration it's no more expensive than J 87.

 

I'm so pleased I went this route, you just know when applying this stuff that it's going to do what is say's on the tin. I've been applying it quite liberally and not a single run or sag anywhere. With some common sense planning and a bit of confidence any one could apply this stuff and make a decent job of it. Your suggestion of gloves is a good one though, it's a bugger to get off even when wearing barrier cream. I dripped some on my face too and it did sting a bit so would advise users to use proper protection. Cellulose thinners as mentioned though is better for cleaning up. I'm the sort of person that hates gloves and all that protective malarky, the new disposable overals I bought for this job are still in their packages Dave's the same unless he's on site

 

I'm having a day off as I'm completely knackered, a shame as the sun's just come out too. I have all next week to get the final coats on, I'm on my own now though so might do half mixes for the J87 as I could run out of tima and waste paint and can take my time with the finishing coats.

Edited September 30, 2012 by Julynian

[blackrose]

I reckon your paintjob will be good for at least 10 years. I don't remember if you mentioned it, but who did you use for the gritblasting and how much did it cost?

[Ex- Member]

I reckon your paintjob will be good for at least 10 years. I don't remember if you mentioned it, but who did you use for the gritblasting and how much did it cost?

 

Thanks for reminding me, I meant to do this in the first post.

 

The company is based in Swindon Paul Booth & Son

 

http://www.boothandson-swindon.co.uk/

 

I did like the fact they were using quality equipment, very impressive compressor and blast equipment. The shotblasterm man was Peter a Polish chap very polite and very helpful and loves his job.

 

The original quote was £300 + v.a.t for our 10/6 x 60f widebeam, a 60 f/t Nb would be much the same I would imagine.

 

The next cheapest quote we had was £550 + vat

 

I would highly recommend them.

 

 

 

 

[Ex- Member]

I's like painting the forth bridge. Well with just me a brush and a roller I seems like It

 

Managed to get the first coat of Joun Hardtop on today @ 13 s/m to a litre I just managed to get a full coat all over. This hardop paint is lovely to work with, much thinner that the Jotun 87 and very easy to paint with. I've used a roller finish as the hardtop is a Gloss finish and I prefer a more satin look which you ge wih the roller. The other good point is there's a 4 hour life to the hardtop, to fully coat with 5 litres took me just under he 4 hours painting at a leisurly pace.

 

Although this paint is expensive I'm in no doubt It's a far superior product to bitumen. I've worked with many different paints over the years from general decorating to auto finishing. This paint covers really well and applies a very good hickness each coat especially the Jotun 87, 5 coats have now been applied to the hull including chines and under the stern, also a barrier primer and 2 coats of 87 on the base plate. Total cost is just under £600 for the paint, but I'm confident this will give us up to 10 years protection, Jotun says 14 years life based on previous performance from Joun 87.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Weather's looking good tomorrow so should get the final coat on.

 

Will be glad to get this finished, alhough we have to jack the boat up again to move the sleepers so we can get those areas covered as well, have held back some Jomastic 87 for the job.

Edited October 8, 2012 by Julynian

[Ex- Member]

Last coat went on yesterday, lovely weather helped things along, finish looks good today so well pleased. Just have to raise tthe boat a bit to move and do under where the sleepers are, bit of a pain but has to be done.

 

Hopefully all external painting will be finished by the end of the month, just the bow locker, stern and gumwales to do along wih some touching up, bring on some nice weather.

[Ex- Member]

Well back to it. Nice day today so I've at last got out and started on all the remaining jobs that need doing.

 

This particular one was an idea I had a long time ago. Basically a Stainless steel tube fitted to the gas locker that can either be used for a sun brolly or whirley gig drier. Seems to have worked a treat, sun brolly swivels and has a handy tilt function. The other bonus was the airer fits inside the gas locker when folded.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That should stop the sun burn on me baldy bit

Edited March 2, 2013 by Julynian