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Hi, I'm trying to identify the correct engine oil for a Vetus m4.17. The manual says CC or CD grade 15w - 40 mineral oil. Could anyone confirm if the part synthetic from Halfords would will be ok? If not hopefully the status car care E7 mineral is correct? Cheers https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/engine-oil/halfords-15w40-part-synthetic-oil-2---5-litres-285286.html https://shop.statuscarcare.com/product/status-car-care-15w40-e7-super-mineral-engine-oil-e7-5l-5-litre/

Good Evening, I hope you can help me,​ I'm having some trouble with a fast oil leak on my gearbox (prm delta) its needs topping off every couple of weeks or more. Theres a picture below ​showing you the leak where the pan is placed just below. The leak is on the bottom right, possibly that's the lowest point? or maybe that gives a clue to the problem? Also the oil (sae 30) is going in clear and coming out black​ so it must be mixing somewhere. The engine oil level is fine, never needed topping up. Does anyone know if the gearbox can be removed still in the water with this setup? Any help appreciated. Thanks!​ p.s. apologies for the state of the engine! After this and some other issues are sorted it'll get a good clean!

A tip that someone else might find useful.... I was changing the oil yesterday and the extractor pump (one of those brass mini-stirrup pump things) didn't work. First time in 20 years. Took it to bits. The valve in the plunger was working OK, added a bit of grease around the plunger as it was a bit dry. Reassembled, still didn't work. So decided the problem must be with the bottom valve being stuck, probably open - this is rather more inaccessible. Put a length of (garden) hose on the outlet, and blew into it while operating the pump handle up and down. After a few seconds something went pop, and all worked fine again. PS a plastic quality street container is just great for putting under the engine to catch the oil when the filter is removed. Unfortunately you have to eat all the chocolates first.

Hello everyone once again Right on my oil pressure gauge it goose from 0-80 psi. When my engine is running it is on the high end of 70 and when I rev the engine it nearly goes of the scale. Unfortunately I am away from the boat till late Sunday so any theories can not be tested till then. Thank you for the help.

Hello! Warning: If you are a seasoned boater who knows their way around an engine, you may find your eyes rolling at my ineptitude. All I can say is I'm trying and want to know more, before you say google it... I did but I'm struggling to make heads or tails of it. Background: diesel, Vetus M3.10 engine, 37ft boat, looks like the engine had it's first 50 running hours 1987. Myself: Had the boat 6 months, never touched an engine before her, currently racking up my call outs with RCR. I've managed to get the RCR mechanic to go through a service with me and he's going to talk me through how to do it myself, go through the whole maintenance schedule! Brilliant. Problem, he said he can supply the oil but he's saying he's got 15w40 that he puts in. The original manual that I've found is stating the following: Engine Oil SAE 10w30, Mil-L-2104 C, CC-CD Not sure what 'Mil-L-2104 C, CC-CD' means but not sure that parts important. Please correct me and inform if it is very much important. It's given a list of examples, which are the following: Shell Rimula CT 10W30 Gulf Veritas SD 10W30 Esso Essolube D 3 10W30 Mobil Delvac 13 10W30 Chevron Delo Super 10W30 Every single one of those oils have been discontinued. I've gone onto Vetus' website and even they don't sell 10W30 for inboard apparently it's for 4 stroke 'outboard' engines, then again they have discontinued the M3.10 engine. Now possibly, it says in the manual 10W30 because other oils weren't really around. Maybe today we have a better oil for this type of engine, something that wasn't available 30-odd years ago. I'm very worried because she's an old engine and I really want to do the BEST for her, whatever it takes. Don't want to buy the cheapest alternative, want the best alternative.... also something I can get my hands on for this weekend 9/5/2020. I know! Perfect time to try and do an oil change but my alternator broke and so it's getting refurbed and the mechanic says he can talk me through a service at the same time he fixes my alternator... As I'm probably 50 running hours over the recommended running time before it needed another service (going off the manuals guide).... Whoops! Any suggestions? What type of oil? where can I get it? Somewhere online? If you can give me a bit of background info on why you suggest the oil, that would be really nice to know! Thanks for your help, advice or any offerings you can make!

Good day, Reading the instruction manual for the generator has me confused and an internet search has not cleared things up. I need some guidance please. The manual states to use a high "detergent" oil. OK, High detergent to me means that there are additives in the oil to keep any debris/particles in suspension in the oil so that the filter can clear them out. Only the generator doesn't have a filter in the oil system. So to me I should use a low/nil detergent oil to allow any debris to fall to the bottom of the crank case and be removed at the oil change. The manual at one point states to use 10W-30 for 0 degrees to +30, then in later pages gives 10W-40 for -5 degrees to + 20 degrees and 15W-40 for +20 degrees. My question is, what grade of oil should I be using for routine operation in our unpredictable summers? Should it be fully synthetic or a semi-synthetic or pure mineral oil? If my statement above, about the function of the "detergent" in oil is correct how do I choose an oil which is low or non-detergent? Thanks Dave R

Hi My first post. When checking the oil level in up Lister ST3 should the dip stick be pushed fully home or with the handle buying testing on dip stick tube. Thanks

Dear Forum, First post! We are fitting out our boat and want to replace the solid fuel stove for a diesel heater. Lockgate/Morso Squirrel and Kabola Old dutch seem to be our favourites in terms of design and I hear they are both reasonably reliable. Problem: I can't find a single chandlery, place, person who sells them. Lockgate is not responding Kabola.nl doesn't list them kuranda marine - kabola's distributor in UK - only list the OD7 which seems a bit much for our 40ft as it has 7kw. Could anyone advise where to get either of the above? I am leaning towards the Old Dutch 4. So I would be super happy if someone could point me in a directin. Thank you Forum. Phelan

Dear fellow boaters, I am fairly new to this forum and hope you can help me with your knowledge. Recently my oil feed pipe leaked so I dismantled it, sent it to the RN Diesel Engine Company who kindly fixed it and put it all back together yesterday. When I am turning the ignition it starts up running but as soon as I close the top and let geo of the key, the engine stops. I have bleed the fuel pipe at the diesel filter and the piston, so do not assume the problem is there (or is it?). What I have noticed though is the oil pressure is not going higher than 20 lb/inch while in ignition but I used to go way higher, Could this mean there is still air in the oil pipes? If so, how would I fix this? I have not seen any possibility to drain it. Any advice is highly appreciated. Thank you, Max of Baildon

I seem to have trouble sourcing basic engine service parts - typically ordering at Chandlers with lengthy delays and high prices. Can anyone advise either for an online place or good local (I'm in Rickmansworth at the moment) supplier? Should I try to source parts from motor factors or places such as local car shops/halfords? I'm never quite sure about oil, often being offered oils slightly different in spec to what the book recommends. I feel like I haven't nailed a good steady supply of correct items, it must be simple surely? thanks

Hi all I need to top up my engine oil on a BMC 1.5, I've been told use 15/40 mineral is that correct? Thanks in advance Markymark

Hi all. Today I have taken my narrowboat out for the first time in a year. I'm currently moored on the canal and am stranded. Today when on the water there was some loud clunks when shifting into gear. The boat then stuck in gear and I ended up crashing into a lock. Traumatic experience... I have just discovered I have no oil in the PRM 120D2 gearbox. Can anyone advise my next step to fixing this issue please? Is it as simple as adding more oil? Many thanks, Jason