Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'floor'.
-
Hello, I'm looking for advice. I'm laying a new floor throughout my 57 ft NB. I’ve just ripped up all my floor so I can lay a new one, I’m down to my subfloor which looks in pretty good condition. I’m going for an engineered, tongue and groove, parquet in a herringbone pattern (sample in pic). The manufacturer recommends gluing it down with a flexible glue. I don’t want to glue it directly onto my subfloor because if it ever needs ripping up for an emergency or otherwise, that would mean destroying both the finished floor AND the subfloor and that’s would be a real nightmare. So, I’m thinking to put down a second subfloor - a thinner layer of marine ply to glue my finished floor onto. Should I put a layer of insulation or something between the 2 subfloors? If so what? When I ripped up my floor there was insulation between the layers and I noticed there was moisture trapped between so I’m unsure it’s a good idea. The floor I ripped up had out of use underfloor heating + t&g + insulation + laminate on top though so it was a bit of mess. Maybe just a thin layer of insulation would be good? Tia
- 17 replies
-
Can I ask for advice on what top coat paint people would recommend for a wet bathroom floor? Rust had come through the previous one, which I’ve sanded back and treated and now primed ready for painting. It doesn’t need to be particularly slip resistant though that would be beneficial.
-
We have 20mm marine ply flooring in our boat, and would like to replace it with a solid wood or engineered wood floor at around the same thickness. Reasons for not laying on top of the ply are that it is not 100% level (some needs replacing) and it has patches of vinyl covering it which are incredibly hard to remove. (in turn not making it 100% level) I'm also curious to see what's down there . . .. Can i remove it without gutting the whole boat? reason being that the ply extends underneath the wall panels (10-15mm ply) and is screwed on to the floor bearers behind the wall panels. So, in order to unscrew the floor for removal we would need to also remove all the wall panels. With things like back boiler attached to these and tiling for the stove, that's not ideal. What about using a circular saw set to 20mm depth and removing the floor by getting as close to the sides as possible, then trimming the sides by hand or with some other tool, to get a flush cut? Thought i'd ask here as there may be others that have done this a little more elegantly than i'm planning!
-
I recently discovered a slow leak, from a water pipe on the flow from the pump, up the sharp end. I've fixed the leak but it's plainly been happening over a sustained period as there has been a significant amount of water under the floor. I'm pumping this out every day through a hole near the rear bulkhead. I have drilled 70mm holes in the floor: up by the water tank, by the rear bulkhead and also behind the fridge to encourage air-flow. The brick ballast is saturated throughout. The bricks are packed in tightly and inhibiting the flow of water from the front to the lower back. What would be the best way to dry this all out? Thanks in advance to my helpful heroes...
- 10 replies
-
- floor
- underfloor
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hi I moved onto my first boat a month ago, and today noticed water stains on some of the floor boards. The stains are above the area I think the water tank must be, so I think they are probably related. As I am pretty new to this I am now panicking with no idea what to do next - all advice gratefully received!
- 33 replies
-
- stained floorboards
- leak
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hi guys! New to boating and just got our first narrowboat - a 65footer. It had quite shabby pink fitted carpets which I had pulled out to see that we have a thick 7 ply floor under. This is really destroyed too because of carpets being glued to it but I think structurally sound. I am thinking of putting a solid wood floor on it and I have few questions. First and foremost whether I can just rip the old floor down and have a antidamp layer below and wooden floor (18 or 21mm) on top and use it without plywood underneath. Do you think it would be durable enough on its own? I don't see why not as it would be strong solid wood (oak or acacia) and same thickness as the ply currently is. My husband is concerned however therefore the question. He is also concerned about taking off this primary ply floor as it might be structurally important? Is it? Another question is whether you usually have solid wood floors on boats? Mostly it seems that people are putting engineered floors on boats and laminates but I have seen some with solid wood and it looks gorgeous. Would it not be too humid though? Especially for a tropical tree such as acacia (which I am currently thinking about). I need to say here that I don't want to put the solid wood floor on top of ply as it will take additional 2cm from the height of the boat and as I am 6'1" I am already touching the ceiling and I would not want to need to bend down all the time. Would really appreciate your help and expertise! P.S. I am writing a second post now about a possibility of lowering the ceiling?
-
Just thinking ahead to the next couple of jobs - one is to maybe decorate up to the gunnels (inside) so could be paint, wallpaper, (with or without that polystyrene stuff under it), or carpet. Flooring I had thought laminate, but I've been hearing a lot about vinyl/lino lately. Wondering what others have and especially pro's and cons regarding damp/moisture etc. For example, would carpet keep the walls warm and mould free or would it be like a sponge? Would it make any real difference to the boats thermal efficiency? Would something like vinyl flooring stop the underside from breathing perhaps? I'm all about the practicality, as all these various coverings come in a wide range of colours and styles anyway.
-
currently have carpet down in the NB but as there is now a dog so thinking of changing to a wood type flooring. We have been recommended Karndean which is a strong vinyl type but this seems expensive at £50 per metre fitted. They have to put ply down first. Can anyone recommend any alternative or any views re Karndean, is it slippery when wet, clean easily, durable?http://www.karndean.com/en-gb/floors/look/wood
- 16 replies
-
- floor
- wooden floor
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with: