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Showing results for tags 'central heating'.
Found 14 results
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Bit of a weird one this... I've got an Alde Compact 3010 central heating system and everything was fine until a few days ago. Suddenly the 240V icon isn't showing on the panel, so it's running off 12v and not heating. Eventually, I managed to find the power for the 3010 unit and power it off and on. Voila! The 240v icon reappeared and I thought all was good. Nope. Tried the central heating and initially it worked fine and I could feel the radiators heating up. After a while the 240v icon went out and the central heating radiators of course went cold. Ah, I'll just power it off an on again. Nope. No 240v icon this time. Checked the two fuses in the top panel of the unit and they're fine. Even unplugged and plugged the panel just to reboot it. Still no 240v icon. Any ideas for what else I could check? The unit is definitely getting 240v. Checked the cable with a non-contact meter and it's definitely live.
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This has possibly been covered before but if so I can't find it. I am intending to add an oilfired boiler to an existing solid fuel system using a Rayburn Royal The system is already partly pumped and partly convection so although plumbing changes will be needed the basic piping can be re-used. The main question I have is over what do I use to join the two systems together. The alternatives seem to be 1) Plate heat exchanger 2) Systemzone mixer 3) Esse combiner As far as I can work out the plate heat exchanger and Esse unit keep the boiler water supplies completely isolated whereas the System zone mixes the water flows but is there an advantage to separation? or is it more efficient if they are joined? Something that non of the suppliers seem to list is the relative effectiveness of the units, has anyone experience of these units? There is a price range between them but compared to the overall costs it is minor so I really want to know which one works the best and gives the least long term hassle Cheers JohnV
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Had to find a pub to warm my fingers... I have an Ellis Heatmaster on my nb and has worked fine since I fired up for winter, until now. I had the heating on for a an hour or so the other evening and noticed it had started to chill off despite the boiler still burning. So for an hour the radiators had been working as normal, but then suddenly just stopped. As if blocked, which I suppose may be the problem. I wanted to drain the system, but have two questions. Firstly, is this the best thing to do? is it sludge or something in the system that is most likely? and secondly, how do I refill it? there is a small open topped box above the boiler with three pipes. The first is connected to the fresh water and on the left of the box, and has a valve on it which when opened pumps water into this little box. The second, at the bottom of the box, is connected to the top of the boiler and top of calorifier, and its behaviour suggests the whole box is like an expansion box (?). The third acts as an overflow, and the water drains into the engine bilge. I just would like to understand this system a bit more, and most importantly fix the problem that means I can heat water but not the radiators... Any help much appreciated, thanks! Andrew
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Hello All, I have just bought a 60' narrowboat fitted with an eberspacher unit (d4 or 5). It currently supplies the calorifier, bathroom towel radiator and two electric fan heaters. Unfortunately during its transport the pipes to a fan heater fractured (I think they had been kinked to breaking point previously) and the system is now drained down. I have no experience of using fan heaters and before I go and buy a replacement I just wondered whether to replace it with a radiator. Anybody any experience of both so as to make a comparison? FYI there is a solid fuel stove also. Thanks, Andy
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Hi All, Our 63 foot NB has a decent multi-fuel burner that is at present our one and only way of heating the boat. It is great, EXCEPT the heat doesn't make it's way down the length of the boat to the bathroom and bedroom at the stern (burner is near the bow). This is a common issue I understand. We have decided to go for a cheap Eberspacher copy (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171155028516?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649) that an acquaintance of mine has fitted and says is very good. We only want to use it for maybe an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening, just to take the damp and chill off the bedroom and bathroom, continuing to use the burner as our main source of heat. We already have rads installed that used to be connected to a calorifier, but which is now connected to our hot water supply. I know this is likely to open up a can of worms, as different folks have different experiences, but generally speaking does this sound like a good route to go down? Is there another option? Someone mentioned a combo-boiler to me, but these are expensive so it seems (> £1.3k) and usually need 230v elec (we are CC'ers by the way, although we do have an inverter, but would rather save our batteries). Our burner does not have a back boiler, although we want to be able to have a blast of central heating in the morning, so this would not really be an option. This is our first winter onboard, so open to advice! Cheers for now!!! ps, can we get hot water from the diesel heater too, in combination with our existing calorifier?? -
hi I like a boat but capped off fin radiators suggest they weren’t working well so in addition to the solid fuel stove . I’m thinking of adding back boiler to stove if possible connected to radiators and a diesel heating system too. Would anyone have rough idea of possible cost as a retrofit. Thanks
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Hi everyone, My partner and I live on a tidal part of the Thames on a little wooden boat. We're in the process of building out new dream home - a steel Dutch barge, and we're looking into the best ways to heat it. At the moment we're strongly considering a pellet stove boiler, linked up to a thermal heating store. We could also link up a solar heat panel to the thermal heating store too, to give us a bit of leeway in the summer months. One major concern for us that this point is that boats move! We wanted to see if anyone has any insight or opinion on the impact this could have on the plumbing, and specifically the thermal store. We're unclear on how robust the various pipes leading in and out of it are, the connections between the pipes and the store, as well as it's internal mechanisms. Is it something that could break if it moves around too much...? We could keep it as secure as possible so it isn't bumped, but we certainly can't prevent the boat rocking when faster boats whizz by, as they often do! Any and all insight really welcome! Big thanks in advance, Gabs
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HI, can anyone help!!?? We have an Alde boiler the system is 2928433. We had to remove one of our radiators but we do not know where the refill / top up is. Our plumber is not familiar with the boat (a pinder 58ft) Any advice or suggestions? Thanks
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Our Optimus central heating boiler needs a new controller block which will cost about £400. So I'm considering alternatives. The Optimus has a balanced flue which exits through the roof and its installed in a "cupobard" to one side of the central door at the back of our boat. Ideally something that fits into the same space and possibly using the existing hole in the roof would be ideal. Anyone got any suggestions? Steve
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Hi I have a Morso 1430 + thermostat + waterpump + 3 radiators + header tank set up on my 65 ft narrowboat, and in the last 3 weeks i was having issues with it. It feels like that it keeps loosing water and no amount of bleeding can sort it out. It works for 2-3 days after bleeding it, then it starts to play up again, making the pump struggle slightly, sloshing noises in the radiator, banging noise in the pipes. I looked around and fixed one minor leak at radiator tap but the problem still persists. Has anyone got an idea how to fix it? Many thanks Zsolt
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Hi All, Long story short, I've got a Webasto Thermotop c in place and I'm just about to do the plumbing (pressurised), a couple of questions.......... 1. Is this a pressure relief valve? http://www.screwfix.com/p/prv-with-gauge-15-x-22mm/41943it says "pressure reducing valve" and I was expecting it to have a third outlet for water to come out of if need be, I can't see where the water would escape from on this one 2. Any advice on connecting plastic pipes directly into metal fittings (such as ball valves, or auto air vents) with an olive in? 3. I'm planning to use 22mm ID radiator hose from the Webasto to the 22mm plastic spine about 1.5m away, I've (unreliably) been told this can just be clamped to the plastic pipe with jubilee clips, or is there a better way of connecting the 2? Thanks Steve (i know that was 3 questions, I just got caught up in the moment) :-)
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And yet another conundrum - assuming a 62ft nb with 80l calorifier, I'm aiming for 4 rads plus a large towel rad. I know the Webasto likes to be fully loaded and is 5kw. I'm thinking 4x600w rads (2 in saloon, one in bedroom, one in stern cabin, plus towel rad in bathroom) look about right to me - otherwise next size up is 770w. What have you guys got?
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We have been looking at boats now for about a year but with the sale of a property now looking much more definite we are getting a bit more serious. We have been looking at ten to fifteen year old boats in the 40 - 50k range. Ideally 50 to 58 foot. Today we viewed a 50 foot cruiser stern boat built in 1993 and we were perfectly happy with the amount of living space. The builder was Jim Prescott who I can't find any reference to on here and the fit out was by the owner. It has never changed hands from new. Our concern is the amount of work that we might be getting into. There is no central heating and hot water is from a morco gas boiler. There is a solid fuel stove at the front end of the boat. The quality of the fitout seems OK and obviously we would have a survey before proceeding to check out the hull in particular. The boat was repainted and blacked with 2 pack epoxy five years ago. It also has a feeble 350w inverter. The boat is modestly priced so we would be able to afford to spend money on it but I'm just wondering about the practicalities and cost of retro fitting central heating (we will be living on board all year round), upgrading the electrics and inverter and updating the interior with new flooring and maybe ripping out the old fashioned dinette. I should add that whilst my basic DIY skills are OK I'm not a plumber or electrician so we would need a fair bit of professional help. We wouldn't need to live on board while the work was being done. Piece of string question I know but any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Hello! We are looking at purchasing our second Narrowboat, one vessel that we have viewed has Hurricane Diesel Hot Water Central Heating System. When tested it was quite noisy, does anyone have experience with this type of system?
