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  1. On a small canal boat is it necessary to have a calorifier fitted? The boat has an Aldi heating unit. The engine is a single cylinder unit. Thanks
  2. Hi I've got a boat that was fitted out just over a year ago. I've got a calorifier with a 3 bar PRV but no non-return value or expansion tank. This is fed by a 30psi pump with an accumulator in line shortly after it. Everything has been working fine until now. We've just started noticing occasional vibrations when heating water in our calorifier. The whole immersion tank vibrates and triggers the PRV every 30ish minutes or when the pump runs (refilling the accumulator). I've got a non-return valve and expansion tank on order (Having read up on best practice) but I'm assuming that this wont fix the problem as it was working fine before. Any suggestions on next course of action? Thanks Andy
  3. Does anyone know the difference between a calorifier and a domestic indirect cylinder I've been told that the calorifier is made to withstand more pressure but I would have thought that the domestic one would have to deal with as much or more pressure than a narrowboat one. They both come fully insulated and also they can both come with twin coils
  4. Hello everyone, I'm hoping someone can help me with a calorifier problem i have. Let me start by saying we bought the boat (1993 50ft widebeam) from a third party who knew nothing about the boat and could only show us it running so this has all been a bit of a learning curve, overcoming problem by problem. The boat has a calorifier fitted approximately 1meter from the engine, but we only seem to have hot water when the engine has been running and the boat moving, and even this is only after 3+ hours. running the engine at idle moored up produces nothing. I have bled the air from the system by running the engine to hot and removing coolant filler cap as well as loosening the fittings for water into the calorifier from engine and return to the engine from calorifier whilst engine was running and hot which revealed there was some air in there. each of these actions were done in turn rather than all at once. coolant is approx 30% antifreeze. Because of the length of time it takes to warm up, I believe the water is heating through thermal conductivity of the water in the system as opposed to circulating round the system. The boat used to have a siren/alarm which screamed out from the instrument panel when the ignition was switched on, which we thought was normal until I had our alternator reconditioned as it wasnt producing any power for the batteries and then the alarm stopped and hasnt been back Additionally, on the instrument panel there is a "charge" "oil" and "water" light. Charge light goes out once engine is on and slight throttle applied as I presume it has now been excited. Oil light is never on, but the water light is always on, ignition on and engine on. there is also a single very thin electicial cable with a female spade elctrical connector on top of the engine, coming from the engine where the water/coolant leaves the engine to flow through the pipe to the calorifier. I have no idea where or what to connect to this cable. Can anyone advise what they think may be the problem or what my next course of action should be before contacting an engineer (and paying dearly for it). I will take photos shortly and try to upload within 24 hours. Could it be the thermostat? circulation pump? faulty electrical connection? Thanks for your help
  5. Let me tell you the problem I had with the hot water on my narrowboat. Undoubtedly, many people know the answer, but maybe newbies, like me, will have difficulties. Despite my research on the forum, I have not found. Perhaps because I have trouble reading English when words are too technical. And my owner's manual, yet documented, do not talk about this problem. Besides, I've realized that I do not have the user manual for my immersion heater (built by Thermtec Ldt). Therefore: After several weeks of sailing, we went back to our usual mooring place. A few days after our return, we had no hot water. We never had this problem before. The hot water is produced by the engine or by an "immersion heater". Upon arrival, as soon as we plugged into the electrical network, I turn on the immersion heater with a hidden switch under the rear stairs. But this time, although the switch was turned on, the water is not heated. After several days of research, I removed the wood panels to access the calorifier. On top of the calorifier, there is the head of the immersion heater. It is protected by a white plastic cover. Once the cover removed, I found two small blocks: one (n°2 on picture) adjusts the temperature of the hot water. The other(n°1 on picture) has a small button "reset". I pressed this button, there was a small "click" and a few minutes later, we had hot water again Well, if it can help someone ...
  6. Hello there, Sorry for starting a probably well thrashed-out and potentially very stupid post, but after reading this forum and googling in general for an embarrassingly long time without gaining an understanding of what will do the trick, I'm still scratching my head. I'm doing up a 45footer and I'm after a system that will provide hot water for bath/shower, taps, a couple of little radiators for chilly mornings. I've got a little multifuel stove for heating on really cold days, and I have a morco d61 which I haven't fitted yet because I've realised I won't be able to run any radiators off it (useless, I know). I'm hoping to get a combi boiler of some sort, but the only ones mentioned on here are Alde, which appear to be in the over-a-grand cost region, which is a bit of an issue....but could be managed with a bit of saving. Would any other kind of combi boiler do, would I need anything else with it, or would a tank > pump > boiler > taps/radiators setup be functional? I've read some of the really useful guides on boat heating and water systems and I'm really impressed, I know a lot more than I did but I'm still wondering if there's a reason why you can't just buy an lpg boiler like this: http://www.mrcentralheating.co.uk/Heatline-CaprizPlus-24KW-Combi-Boiler-and-Fernox-Installers-Pack?gclid=Cj0KEQjw6pGfBRD09M-TmYTBzqIBEiQAcRzH5xtPIk5-EU3__2QYKdILCB5vKBf-3YkP9BYH3YKQ08kaApF78P8HAQ& Many thanks for your help all, and sorry again for starting a new topic on this. Lucy ==
  7. From the album: Lister LPWS Calorifier

    This is the kit I bought but I have been told it is for a later engine
  8. From the album: Lister LPWS Calorifier

    Photo of water pump area on Jessica Sarah's 1992 4 cylinder lister
  9. Hi, I have recently purchased a boat and after moving on have discovered that there is no hot water coming out of the hot tap. The water does get hot just doesnt come out of the hot taps. (Cold tap has water ok) The boat is fitted with a brand new surecal 55ltr vertical calorifier with a drain valve at the bottom and the PRV and Mixer tap at the top. (Fitted by the previous owner but never comissioned) The cold water feed from the pump (at the front of the boat) feeds the taps and shower before reaching the calorifier in the engine bay. It then feeds into the bottom of the calorifier and also has a T-piece off the bottom of the feed that feeds into the mixer valve at the top. I did notice that if I turn the red cap on the TRV to the open position water comes rushing out of the hot tap but stops as soon as I release/close it. Does anyone have any ideas on what the issue might be as I dont want to keep the PRV permanently open just to get hot water. My install appears to mirror the connection instructions from surecal except on my calorifier the PRV is also on the top brass part with the mixer valve. (The bottom appears to just be a water feed inlet and a drain valve) Many thanks in advance. Sarah My Calorifer: Surecal Instructions:
  10. We have a boat that we have been on since October, new boat. We kept finding that the bilge, on one side had a good deal of water in it. Kept mopping it out and with all of the rain that we have had since October, just kept thinking that the water was running in from the deck so kept cleaning out the drain runners. Then we had a canopy fitted which meant that the deck was considerably drier however, the one side of the bilge kept filling up again. Further investigation showed that the overflow pipe from the hot water tank was dripping. We got the boat builder here to take a look and he cut the pipe and has run this to outside the boat through a small hole drilled in the side. Over three weeks, we mopped out 3 mop bucket loads of water. The water dripping out of this hole is visible all the time, whether the hot water is on or not, whether the tank water is hot or not. Would you expect this amount? The builder says that it is normal to have this overflow from the water tank due to pressure. The pump is not kicking in at all. It is just continually dripping.
  11. HI All, They're great boats, aren't they? The gift that just keeps on giving... and so, another year another set of issues... Over xmas hols i fitted new rads for a newly installed back boiler. I also finally sorted out our paloma plumbing, which was plumbed into the hot water system along with the calorifier (as one system, and therefore did not work properly, as the paloma would pump hot water into the calorifier!). But now both the rads and the hot water are not connected to the calorifier (i have put stop ends on both sets of pipes coming from it). When i ran the engine for three hours a coupe of days ago when I turned the engine off there was a hissing and quite a bit of steam coming from the engine well. When I opened it it seemed like it was coming from nearby one of the pipes going into or out of the calorifier. Am I being stupid? OK, I didn't drain the two systems that were previously plugged into it (but the rads have always been turned off at a tap new to the calorifier as they were blocked (hence new ones). But there appears to be also be a pipe going from the calorifier to a skin fitting in the engine compartment so I would have thought that if it was too hot then steam and hot water should be ejected from this? Could the hot water from the engine that heats up the calorifier element be getting too hot because there is no flow into and out of the calorifier to take the heat away? If the latter how can I block this off?? I might start using the calorifier again soon as I think I will connect up the rads again and have it feed in (with taps to turn off when engine not in use) to the back boiler-heated central heating system. Does any of that make sense?????
  12. I'm currently fitting out a 64ft narrowboat and have reached the point of fitting out the plumbing. I'm concentrating on the fresh water system, of which im adopting a very similar (if not identical) structure to C-Warm's schematic drawing...(see image link below) http://www.tnorrismarine.co.uk/images/cal1.JPG This system on paper looks pretty straight forward to me, I've sourced most of the parts yet connecting them together is a mystery to me. I'll be using push fit Hep2O which is relatively basic to fit, my concern lies more with installing the main components like the calorifier, water pump, accumulator tank, shower, valves etc... Has anyone installed a fresh water system and can guide me in the right direction? P.s - I'm very new to boating and unfamiliar with plumbing 'know how', hence theoretic or jargon related advice won't really help me, im much more apt at learning in a practical and visual method, I would be truly grateful if you could cater to that medium of information, regardless any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  13. without peeling off the insulation from around the tank can anyone tell me if what appears to be a small bung between the pipework is the entry point for an electric immersion element please? one end tother
  14. Hi all, We have recently completed our maiden trip in Delta Queen, bringing her from Ventnor Farm Marina to our home mooring on the Coventry Canal. Excellent trip, and apart from a heavy shower whilst descending the Hillmorton locks brilliant weather. On the trip we noticed that the radiators were getting hot, even though the Webasto heater was switched off. When we got to our home mooring I looked at the calorifier plumbing connections and think they are plumbed incorrectly. The calorifier is a "Surecal" and was replaced in January. It has 6 connections. Lets call them 1 to 6 starting with 1 at the top. The bottom one (6) is the cold feed in, the top one (1) the hot water out, and the other 4 are the twin coils for the engine cooling circuit and the Webasto heater circuit. I think that the two coils are connection 2 & 3 and 4 & 5. Currently the engine circuit is connected to 3 and 4, and the Webasto heater to 2 and 5. I think this connect the engine and the Webasto in series, hence the hot radiators when the engine is running. (The rads also get hot with the Webasto only on). I think the engine connections should be on 4 and 5 , and the Webasto heater on connections 2 and 3, as this will allow the engine to heat the hot water, but not the radiators. Am I correct? Once I have identified the correct connections, how easy is it to change them? I presume you have to drain the calorifier and also the engine and radiator circuits. If they are plumbed incorrectly, my first port of call will be to ask the company that installed the calorifier to sort it out free of charge. Thanks in advance for the help[. Alan
  15. Hi, Please can anyone help! We recently purchased a 70ft narrowboat (2007) with a Barrus Shire 45 engine. We have 4 ways in which we should get hot water from the boat which are listed as follows: 1. From the engine when running. 2. Eberspacher diesel system. 3. Log Burner and back boiler. 4. Immersion Heater Problem 1 We are new to boating and have only just bought the boat which was built in 2007. The engine is a Barrus Shire 45 and the coolant system is plumbed to a twin calorifier at the centre of the boat. Circulation is aided by a pump in the engine bay. When the engine is running, the hot water in the calorifier does not get hot. The expansion tank in the engine bay is also staying cool. Problem 2 The Eberspacher and Log burner are linked on one header tank separate to the engine header tank. When the eberspacher is running we get hot radiators ( 4 in total) but no hot water. The header tank is located in a wardrobe at the back of the boat which gets hot but with this system does not boil over. Problem 3 If we light the log burner a pump which is located at the back of the burner starts pumping that is controlled by a heat temp switch I think its called which senses the pipe getting hot and sends a signal for the pump to work and a light illuminates to show this is working. However the header tank which is shared with the eberspacher system does not get hot and pressure builds forcing the liquid out the small outlet pipe of the top of the tank. We get no hot radiators or no hot water. The pump starts to make a loud noise and we have had to put out the fire. We purchased the boat from a Marina who was acting as a brokerage for the vendor. We also paid over £800.00 for a full survey and this was not discovered. The Marina have just charged us £640.00 to relocate the old header tank from its location in the well deck to the wardrobe in the back of the boat as they said it was too low and have also replaced a pressure release valve and refilled with antifreeze and bled the system. This has failed to resolve the problem and the marina are now wanting over £2000 to re-pipe the whole boat! Summary We can only get hot water from the immersion heater. Eberspacher heats radiators but again no hot water - expansion tank gets hot but doesn't overflow Log burner does not heat water or radiators and header tank stays cold and the coolant is forced from top of bottle Engine doe not heat water and header tank bottle stays cold - Marina have replaced a relay on the engine pump but this has failed to resolve the problem Urgent Concern I need to move the boat this weekend to its new mooring (7 hrs cruising) and from the reading I have been doing I am wondering if it is possible that it is one of the engine thermostats that has failed. Ours has 2 thermostats, one at 71 degrees and a second at 88 - IF it is a thermostat and i move the boat - is there a chance that the engine will overheat and seize??? How can i eliminate this being a problem before I move the boat or is it worth replacing them to be sure and safe? Any help greatly appreciated - boat must move on Friday! We have had some helpful suggestions from Tony Brooks with regards to the first part of the email but the urgent concern bit only came to mind last night and made me worry a bit - Thanks in advance Joanne
  16. howdy, I have fitted an surecal calorifier (next to the engine house)and everything works well(after having to change the o ring in the immersion boss) apart from when i have a shower(mixer tap type), I get hot water untill the pump (situated next to the cold water tank) kicks in then i get luke warm water for about 1 min then hot then just luke warm. have I missed something or do i need to fiddle with some part or other. The whole system is driven by a jabsco auto pump par max1.9gpm (7lpm).Any advice is much appreciated ta ,rudefuss
  17. How much would you expect to pay to fit a calorifier to this boat at a boatyard and would it cost a great deal more to have it heating the radiators as well?....in ball park terms of course and trusting there were no skin tank size issues thrown up in a survey. Engine: BMC diesel 1.5 skin tank cooled inboard engine. http://narrowboats.apolloduck.co.uk/feature.phtml?id=307404
  18. I have a Surecal dual coil calorifer with one coil connected to my engine, and the other blanked off. I also have two radiators connected to the back boiler of my coalbrookdale duel fuel stove - this is gravity fed. My question is whether to use the spare coil and hook it up to the boiler feed, and if so how. I suspect gravity won't work its magic throug the calorifier... ...so I envisage taking a loop from the hot side of the last radiator through a pump through the calorifier and back to the cold side of the last radiator. Has anyone done anything like this - if so, what and how? Anyone got any comments on my scheme or better ideas? I don't mind the last radiator losing some heat when the pump is running, and I'll only run it when I want to heat up the calorifier anyway. But might there be any issues with the boiler when a pump is attached, as obviously this will increase the flow? Thanks, Mark
  19. Hello everyone, I've bought a 47ft Narrowboat and will be starting to live aboard very shortly. One of the things on the (ever growing!) list that I want to take a look at is the water heating. The boat is relatively young in years (2007) and hot water is coming from a calorifer fed from and heated by the boat engine. This has been working great whilst cruising however on a long term basis, when I'm moored up for a week or two at a time I don't want to keep starting the engine every day just to get a shower in and wash the dishes... I'm not going to have shore power available and having had a look and the option which keeps coming up are gas water heaters (Alde, Morco etc) However I was of the understanding that these could now not be installed under the new guidelines set out in the boat safety certificate? My certificate is due in on October, so I want to look in to an option that'll pass through no prob's... guess theres always a kettle and a bowl! Any advice would be greatly appreciated - and thanks for all the comments and posts on the forum to date, they've been so useful! Cheers, Andy
  20. Hi, My domestic hot water is lukewarm at best when my immersion heater turned on. I'm guessing the element is in need of changing and I think I understand how to change one (there's plenty of tutorials online which seem relatively straight forward to follow). However, I was wondering if anyone has done this themselves? Any pointers/advice? The only thing that I am unsure about is a gas canister which is connected to the system. I'm guessing this regulates the pressure to and from the hot water tank? See pic Thanks a lot, George
  21. Hi, i'm new to the forum, fitting out my own boat currently! My horizontal calorifier is fitted and fed by a webasto and the engine take off hoses for heat, twin coil, and connected to accumulator and expansion tank just after the hot water out pipe from the calorifier. I only get 2 litres or so of hot water before it becomes cold, checked and bled the coolant side of the circuit, all fine, adjusted the thermostatic mixer valve to make sure it's not all cold mixing in. Water does come through from the hot tank, just a very small amount, so unlikely to be a blockage as water is flowing from the tank...im at a loss, any ideas??
  22. Hi gang, Just trying to get an idea of what might be going on with my water system, so I can decide what to do next. We have a 36ft trad. The water tank is at the front under the bow, calorifier under the bed toward the back and overflow pipe into the bilge at the back. Problem is only happening when there is water in the water tank. There is a step up from the cabin to the bow. Sometimes we are finding a significant amount of water pooling around the step. Inside the step is dry, the back of the step is dry. I am not sure where the water is coming from, other than I have a hunch it's from the main tank. The water pump makes a whirring sound every 5 to 10 minutes. The overflow pipe into the bilge is continuously dripping and the bilge needs emptying every 2 days. I have, for now, emptied all the water from the tank and switched off the water pump. I've left it for a week and there is no water in the bilge. Any ideas/ experience would be gratefully received. Thanks, Gemma
  23. Good morning. On Legacy we have a twin coil calorifier, 55 ltr manufactured in about 2007. The second coil is not used & is blanked off as the central heating unit has been removed. I have fitted temperature sensors to the skin of the calorifier and, after a few hours cruising, get the results : top 60C mid level 40C and lowest level 30C. Not knowing the internal layout of the tank, I don't know if the two coils are at the same level. I believe in vertical calorifiers they are but have no knowledge of horizontal ones. I would like to generate more hot water and ask if it would be practical to connect the second coil (22mm) in line with the first coil (15mm) - with the usual adaptors. Questions : could the coils in a horizontal calorifier be at different vertical levels? I have been unable to find any diagrams of possible internal layout. Made more difficult by not knowing the manufacturer. Will the engine jacket water pump be powerful enough to push the water around a second coil? Calorifier is located under the bed with 3m of pipework to the engine. Thank you Dave R
  24. Help and advice please! Apologies in advance for being completely clueless, but I'm here to hopefully learn how not to be... This morning I turned on the hot water (Morco gas heater) to do the washing up.. Water didn't get hot so I went back to check and the pilot light had gone out. There were loud rattling/banging sounds coming from the calorifier. I turned off the water pump and the sounds continued for about 20 seconds. I've tried turning on the pump again and the sounds come back. I have realised that the coolant for the 2 litre expansion tank has run dry.. Is this the cause? How much damage has been done by allowing the coolant to run dry? I currently have no understanding of how the system is put together so don't know what connects to what, what feeds what, etc... All I know is that sound is NOT GOOD. Any help greatly appreciated. I appreciate the info I've given is a little convoluted: please be gentle, I've only had the boat for 6 days...
  25. Hello, I hope you can help. I have a single coil calorifier heated from the engine. I also have radiators heated by an eberspacher. They are on separate systems. Is it possible to connect the two systems so that the calorifier can be heated from both sources? As the eberspacher is mounted higher than the engine, would there be a problem with water from the radiators circuit causing the engine cooling circuit to overfow? Thanks!
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