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W+T

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W+T last won the day on June 29 2013

W+T had the most liked content!

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About W+T

  • Birthday 23/06/74

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lancs
  • Interests
    Boats, DIY, fishing, cars.

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    driver
  • Boat Name
    ???????????
  • Boat Location
    United Kingdom

Recent Profile Visitors

5,275 profile views
  1. AsPaulC says really, i wouldnt worrk on distortion on welding a plate in the old hole. Just a matter of doing a small run at a time every 90deg. to big s run will mess it right up. It all depends how handy you are and what time you have. Myself i cant see it being that hard if you have the gear and a little time. But then i would just do it. I am like that, dont ask just do.
  2. i think the issue there was to give the cars to folk who didnt do a random service on them lol.
  3. My choice would be and is going to be a LWB Mitsi Shogun. MK2 are better as bullet proof but are getting old now The MK3 + are more for the modern comforts and well priced but still dam good cars.
  4. that was a real 4x4, unlike poncy modern 4x4`s.
  5. Seals direct http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/
  6. Hey and all then fresh Mackerel for the BBQ when your on the Scotland trip, not gealous one bit Now i got a bit done done this weekend. As it has been nice i thought i would get the repairs done to the cabin top. Just a matter of using some Creeping Carck, bit of a waste though as i couldnt get all the water out the laminate but it did get through as it strated to drip into the cabin. very watery. That was another reason i didnt want to bother with resin as i knew there would be little chance of drying it out enough for resin. Besides that i fitted the deck drains at last. Just a matter of slitting the fitting to take an angle grinder spanner so i can tighten them up. To seal them again i used Sikaflex 291i, just a bead around the recess then fit the drain. I forgot to get pics of the underside but you get the jist. Just a lock nut and then the compression fitting with a few inch of copper pipe. Job number two was the anchor locker hatch. I wanted a risen edge around the hatch opening, just to try and let as little water in as possible. It will get wet enough with the wet anchor and chain. To do this i just laiminated 4 x 650grm combo to get around 8mm thick edge. This is where i finished the job with last year, by eck that long ago. Some block were fitted to hold the section that was cut out Next i taped down Tinfoil around the cut. Tinfoil is great stuff for if you dont have or want to use a release agent like PVA Blue. It will just peal off the finished laminate. Alos it will stop resin running in between the gap and into the locker. You can see the opening edge where i needed to laminate over to get what i need. Then just a matter of laminating over Once set i could see the edge i need to cut back to and marked then used an anlge grinder and slitting disc. Just leaving a little more on thug as i can sand back to get a better fit once it is in place. Trimmed back to the width i wanted and then tapered the outer edge ready to be filled and made good. Still a bit go as you can see, plenty of filling and sanding but it should be ok when finished. I was wanting to get the hatch finished and the rear locker seat hatch laminated but today i had to go out with T and her kids for mothers day ( see Rach we all have to sacrifice on some things lol ) I think was all for this weekend Not much to look at but i am happy enough of finding and fixing the leak. I am in the process of a shopping list for the week of i have in a few week. In the men time i hope to have finished the insulation, not a great deal to do, and lined out. Run the hot water pipe and deck filler fitted. Then on my week off i can get on with making the cabin hatch and finish the frame work for the berths/seating and more i hope.
  7. Hi there. I am just in the process of fitting out a cabin cruiser. I have near insulated it and lined it with ply. I will be using a carpet type covering for the hull sides and cabin top but for the galley i will be using Formic sheets which can be glued on with contact adhesive . Head swill be the PVC cladding, i cant see why you cant try that to do certain cabin areas. You best to get the stringer type, with more cavities to get the better strength as if hit hard it can crack. There are loads of shades/colours in Formica to choose from and it cuts real easy.Also cheap. I have gone with carpet for most of the boat as it is better at reducing condensation. Wolly :)
  8. just the valve with a few inch left around the base and then glued over the hole will work, no need for any reservoir. Today i finished the job and from the outside ( as now i know where the hole is ) i used a ring of 6-8mm thick Blue Tac around the hole and pressed it in place and then pushed the air line fitting i used bolted to the original pressure plate into it and it took 5psi easy, i reckon it could of took more.
  9. As not many look at my build blog then i thought it would be better to have its own thread.
  10. Thats easy solved then, dont put a match to it.
  11. 1 I would just cut the boards to fit to the wiring, then use expanding foam around the wires. Or fit he wires before hand in conduit then fill the cavity with foam. 2 just remove them 3 fine to celotex around the sockets. oh and cut the mushroom when the celotex is in place
  12. A few folk have seen this idea I had have been asking about it more so I thought I would share it here. For a good while on my GRP boat refurb I found a slow drip on the inside when it rained hard or for long periods. I was finding if difficult to find though where it was getting in. GRP leaks work on a capillary action so where the leak is on the inside it could be getting in many feet away. There are a few ways to find leaks like this, one using a smoke bomb in the cabin, but that needs a clear route out so if water is in the laminate then how does the smoke get out, and then there is spotting the smoke from the outside. Well my idea was that if water can get in air can get out. I made a pressure plate as here using a 1/4BSP male air line fitting and i cut down a brass fitting to make a lock nut to suit as i was having difficulty in getting a lock/half nut to fit. Plenty of PTFE was used aswell. 3mm spacer was sealed down with sikalfex and then the fitting and nut sealed in. The pressure plate would of been flat but where the water was getting in is on a corner. The plate was held in place with sikaflex to make a seal and left for 6 days to set. It can take this time due to so much being used. Once set i just pushed on the air line and set the air regulator to 0 and bit by bit raised the pressure, when it got to 5psi i heard air hissing from somewhere. I got a soap solution and dapped it first around the rail fittings and over here and there, where ever i thought it would be coming from. I found it was about 2-3 foot from where the internal leak was coming in. Here we have the pin hole that was causing so much hassle, What i have done up to now is blow air through for a while to get as much water out as possible then made a dam around the hole with Blue Tac and used Creeping Crack to seal it a little, there was no need to as it will be filled properly asap by counter sinking and resin filler used. I was going to try and pump resin into it but going to far i think. I hope this helps out others if they find the same situation which is real hard work to find the leak. Wolly
  13. well i have had a look for an oven wiht les height than the Voyager 4500 and only found this one http://www.norfolkmarine.co.uk/shop-online/baby-cooker-with-grill-with-p-6725.html How about raising the oven higher to keep as much space below as possible. Aslong as you have the space as needed above the stove it will be ok i reckon. Hey hang the pans on the back wall even, just trying to think of idea for you. I know how you liek to cook
  14. Sacrifices hey, is your galley small then ? How much space you have, maybe a separate oven ?