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aread2

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Buckingham
  • Occupation
    IT
  • Boat Name
    Syncopation
  • Boat Location
    Blisworth

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  1. I'm voting for a second skin fitting. But if you still have to use a single one it might work if the T fitting is at the skin fitting level with the two pipes joining it from above so they both can drain without water flowing down to the other pump.
  2. We use Ikea stainless on our induction hob. It's a magnetic grade, probably 18/0.
  3. On mine all hoses and cables run through the bottom panel. I'm sure the enclosure would support some clips/light brackets but I'd be hesitant to attach stuff to the outside of it because it would all have to be dismounted to get the sides of the enclosure off, which you'd need to do when servicing. The rear panel of mine is bolted to the bottom tray. I've never taken it off because the exhaust and prop shaft pass though it. The front panel is bolted to the front of the bottom tray. The top panel rests on the tops of the side panels and is held down with quick release clips. It has two pins that locate in the end panels. There is a hatch for access to the dipstick and coolant cap. The side panels and are not fixed and rest on a lip on the bottom tray. They are held in by the top panel's quick release clips. Typically when servicing I will need to remove all but the back panel for access to the sides and front of the engine. Here's the a picture of the setup of mine from the side. As you can see all the hoses and cables come out below the left side panel.
  4. I drain the plumbing to the taps and shower as I have had both the shower valve and the basin mixer cracked by freezing in the past.
  5. Most 12v equipment (e.g. lamps, pumps) will keep working even if the batteries are flat, just becoming dimmer/slower. More sophisticated devices like fridges and inverters will stop working when the voltage falls below a set level e.g. 11v. either to prevent damage to the batteries or to themselves.
  6. It's pretty effective. Reduces the noise at least as well as well-fitted deck boards. Then there are deck boards over it. Make sure you have a large silencer too.
  7. If it's a vacuum toilet you need to replace the carbon filter regularly or pipe the output from the vacuum pump overboard to avoid smells inside. I originally specified a skin fitting for the vacuum output pipe on our boat but ended up with an open outlet under the bed utilising the supplied carbon filter. This sealed cartridge filter lasted a few months and I replaced it with an ice cream carton that I refill with activated carbon that I buy by the kilogram from aquarium suppliers.
  8. Central London ULEZ will expand to cover everything inside the North and South circular in October 2021. While it only covers road vehicles I wonder if it's a factor in this development.
  9. Have you seen Mr Jefferson's parlour doors? https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/mr-jeffersons-parlor-doors-177268/
  10. All but the pipe blockage with scale occurred when friends had the boat. The family are well trained in what not to put down the loo.
  11. Sounds like a Vertus macerator, not a Dometic Vacuflush. But for what it's worth our Vacuflush has bocked in three different places during its 15 year life: 1. At the bottom of the pan. Under the ball valve there's a one inch hole where all the solids are broken up by being sucked through. Wipes don't break up and so block the hole. Solution is to hold the valve open with the flush lever and either retrieve the blocking wipe or poke the blocked through with a screwdriver. 2. In the pipe from the toilet to the vacuum/cassette unit. Solution was to replace the pipe as the blockage was limescale. Be sure to leave the pipe filled with vinegar occasionally to dissolve limescale to prevent this happening. Flexible pipe should be replaced every now and then anyway as it becomes porous over time and lets smells out. 3. At the spigot that joins the cassette to the docking station there is a 90 degree bend. Solution is to remove the cassette, pull back the spring loaded sleeve and clear the hole in the bottom of the pipe. The cassette in this instance was difficult to remove as the blockage prevented the spigot from sliding out of the cassette. You can get at the other side of the blockage by removing the end of the pipe from the toilet and poking at the other end of the blockage.
  12. I bought 10m braided 14mm polypropylene rope from Aldi. Disappointed to find the core is made of something like j-cloths, not braided. Impossible to splice so pretty useless.
  13. Somebody else's old mooring rope, still attached to the bank. As I left the mooring the boat came to an abrupt halt. The propshaft had been pulled out of the centaflex coupling. Everything came to rest with the prop jammed up against the leading edge of the rudder. Fortunately there was no major ingress of water and it was easy to reassemble.
  14. Ours is a domestic induction hob. We have a 5.5 kVA Travelpower to run it. So we need the engine running to cook or to have shore power plugged in. As the largest ring is 3kW and the other three at least 1kW each I wouldn't dare turn them all up to max at once. In fact it's pretty unusual to use more than two rings at a time anyway. There's no connection between the hob and the batteries. We have a very small electric kettle for evening use. Each pot of tea sets us back at least 5% of capacity.
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