Andy Beckl

Hi Guys thanks for the info. That makes sense, the dummy injector. I've only ever done them on petrol engines before :-) The back story is as follows: I bought the boat last year from an owner who had clearly mollycoddled it. It's got a JP2M driving a 20" prop through an original mechanical reverser, but _no_ reduction. He went ballistic at me for turning the throttle (speed wheel) by 1/2 a turn, and didn't have a clue what revs he was using. I got lumps of soot out the chimney first time I revved it in reverse! The handbook gives 450rpm for idle speed and a max of 1200rpm. Turns out he was protecting the gearbox, which was slipping quite badly, especially in reverse. So, I've fixed that, ie adjusted it properly so there's now negligible slip in either gear. I reckon a fast cruise on canals is doing around 400rpm. I can pull a reasonable wave and running steady the exhaust is as clean as I'd expect a 1950s diesel to be. No visible smoke. But it won't rev beyond - lets say 500rpm - in gear. The shaft turns by hand okay, the prop is clear, no inlet blockage etc. More throttle just gives gradually more black smoke with little increase in revs. I've had this on hire craft before, but usually at the upper end of the rev range. I know diesels do smoke as they're accelerating, which mine is clearly trying to do. I realise the boat won't go a fat lot faster on canals, but I am a bit concerned about taking it out on rivers. So I am thinking it is probably a tad overpropped. Crowther's and Axiom both say I should be running 20 x 14. I made a rough measurement and reckon the current prop is 20 x 18. The diameter is correct, the pitch a calculated estimate. Before I get Crowther's to attempt to bend my prop a bit flatter, I want to be sure that the engine is giving it's proper power. I could convince myself that it (hand) starts better flipping the rear pot off decompression first, but it's a nuance and I could be deluding myself. So I thought, what's a good health check? Compression test, I thought. Yes I could dismantle and decoke, just in case, but I'd rather not! Fitting a speed reducer is an option, as is getting rid of the blackstone box and installing a PRM, but these are quite expensive options and degrade the vintage appeal. Anyway I quite like chugging along at below-idle RPM, just could use a bit more oomph for maneuvering! I'm up for any intelligent comment - fire away! Andy PS Richard, you are near enough to me (currently Hinkley) for a visit. If you decide you need a JP adapter perhaps you'd like to quote for a test & brief report? PPS I do have a couple of spare injectors so perhaps I'll just swap them in and see if anything changes.

Anyone performed a compression test on a lister JP. How did you do it and what results did you expect / did you get? If you have the kit could you come check mine in Hinkley?

Hi folks I have a 1947 JP2M in a Narrowboat. This is fitted with an original mechanical gearbox which I believe were made by Blackstone. At the moment the only thing limiting the gear lever travel in the reverse direction is the lever hitting the inside of the 'box casing. Not good. When I look at the user's / spares manual I see a simple little adjustable stop - looks like it fastens to the casing screws. Question - where could I beg/steal/buy the bits for one of these (items 118/119/121/122) in the diagram linked here. Thanks for any assistance. I'm also interested in wear parts and adjusters, would consider buying a scrap/complete gearbox, eg with cracked casing or whatever. cheers Andy

Fabulous guide, Tim, thanks. Looks a bit daunting for someone who finds the Severn scary! I think if I am to do it I should look to join a flotilla - do you / does anyone know if these are a regular thing? The St Pancras site implies thay might be. Andy

Hi A new job in Kent means I'm wondering about moving a Narrowboat onto the Medway via the tidal Thames. Internet searches indicate that it can be done - with caution - but the Thames authority advise that a buddy boat is a good idea. Anyone either done it solo or fancy getting together a group of boats? Grateful for any advice/opinion/ bigotry as ever Ta Andy

This scared me a bit as it says our local river navigation (the Calder & Hebble) is quotes to have a max length of just 54ft 9in - and I have just made an offer on a 57footer! But the current BW C&H boater's guide says 57ft 6in. The doc referred to originally carries the text "should this be a note Eugene, Narrowboats can navigate but diagonally" and is dated 2004 which leads me to think it may be not entirely authoritative. Anyone confirm C&H at 57ft from experience? Andy

But the Nene is a River under the control of the Environment Agency (at the moment) so the owner of the adjoining land (the riparian owner to use the jargon) may allow mooring anywhere he/she likes. I am led to believe that the landowner actually owns the river bed too, up to the centre line of the river! There is at least one field in your area where mooring is permitted for the 'price' of a bottle of whiskey to the farmer. Nevertheless I'd recommend contacting EA. In my opinion it'd be far better to create a small basin on the land so that mooring, flow and the provision of services would be far better. That's the way to make it a proper business. Cheers Andy

To those of you that have composting toilets, please can you tell me what type you're using (I have seen AirHead from USA at Whilton and Separett from Denmark (IIRC). They agree that separating No1 from No2 is the key to it all - I'm clear on how the Danish unit does this - basically there are two holes - but the American data is rather more coy. Air Head has a separate Pee tank whereas Separatt seems mostly to assume a nearby drain. Maybe the Nene will do for the latter but perhaps it'd be a bit less social on a canal (although I've always used towpath bushes for my own standing convenience, eg on the way back from pubs). So what's yours and how does it separate? Thanks in anticipation Andy