adrianh

I suggest you visit the K.A before you spend a lot of money moving your boat. The google maps image is many years out of date and the number of boats is many times more in the bath area to the point that only a few visitor moorings are occasionally free.

Ask at Sally Boats Bradford on Avon for a hiab launch. Otherwise cranage at Keynsham and Bristol. Unless you have a mooring you will need a functioning boat to meet the CART movement criteria. Very few places to moor due to the large number of Ccmers in the vicinity of Bath

Check if your mains powered booster runs via a small external power supply. If so look at the power supply output voltage, if it is 12volt you can feed from the boat power via a 1 amp fuse, if it is 5 volt (as mine is) then you can power from a usb source such as tv or round adapter as used in a vehicle or dedicated 5v usb power socket from your 12 volt system

Assuming that you are connecting a DC load, then fit a DC fuse (automotive type) at the beginning of the supply cable, to match the connected device current. This must be lower than the theoretical maximum cable current which will depend on the size, type and length and location of the feed and return cable. The best cable to use is Tri rated as it has the best insulation and temperature rating. If you are connecting 240 volt AC then consult the 17th wiring regulations but do not use solid drawn conductors ( twin and earth type cable), either use tri-rated or flexible cables.

If it is quieter when removed from the mounting board try using soft grade rubber mount bobbins to isolate the vibration. You need to know the weight and divide equally between the mounts. Exhaust mounts are possibly the easiest to buy or search anti vibration mounts.

Passage down river and into Bristol is interesting. The river is winding and often tree lined with 5 larger locks by wiers. Nothing to difficult. Pub at Saltford , vm moorings before is good, also older of the pubs at Hanham. Plenty to see and do in Bristol.. You can moor in the centre part, a bit noisy or opposte SS Great Britain or further down just past the boat yard. Water taxis available in the day time. Mooring about 20 pounds per night for 40 ft boat

Try to fit this as 1 full length without joints. It is not good to change to larger sizes mid stream as this drastically reduces flow allowing a build up of sediment. Check that the hose fitting on the out going end has chamfered edge on the bore to give a good flow. I suggest you plug both ends of the old pipe and wear disposable gloves and clothing, I used to do work at sewage works and it takes a long time to build up resistance to the bacteria present even in old parts. Diluted jeyes fluid is good to disinfect parts and tools. Also expect to increase hole sizes as the OD of tube changes depending on the quality and manufacturer.

Mooring is now slightly better on visitor moorings Semington to Bath due to efforts of Cart, mooring on the river at Bath is now much reduced as building work is taking place and the moorings near the weir have been removed ( forever). Just returned from Bristol at the end of last week and found no moorings on pontoon at Hanham lock ( full of CMers), new visitor moorings on the bank side above Saltford lock mostly empty, almost full VM on pontoon at Keynsham lock ( CMers), Bath 50% full, K & A not to bad even with a large number of hire boats out. Travelling on the river is good but check levels and access to/from Neatham lock in advance - ring lock keeper for the best advice - number on the Bristol Harbour Site. It is almost impossible to stop along the length of the river so plan as a 1 day trip. Water/ pump out at Newbridge Bath (restricted hours). Water on a pontoon near Bitton, Water at Netham lock, full services in Bristol Harbour on the new area opposite SS Great Britain and other points. Also pump out at Bath Narrowboats above top lock on K & A.

You could try Semington dock, K & A if you want professional help, would meet your 4 hour travel limit easily.

Old school like you. I don't know of software that will give you a simple old type view. Look at Nanocad or Draftsight for good Cad free soft ware in 2D. What you are asking for is 3D and usually cost several thousand to purchase. They all take a while to learn. Solidworks seems to be a favorite

It is not possible to know this without actually looking at the reference marked on the element that is fitted. The number on the outside of the holder only gives you the style. The UCMX 1518 range is 10 micron - this is the norm for hydraulics and gives better filtration than a normal 20 micron vehicle filter. An oversize filter relative to the oil flow through it gives a much longer operating life.

Just remembered, the reference for the modern spin on filter is UC - MX 1518 or similar. I think the number for the complete unit with the aluminium head is UCC QA628101L although this may be the American ref with NPT threads - you need BSP. This has a choice of no sensor, pressure gauge or pressure switch and has a built in blockage bypass to prevent over pressure so check my ref if ordering. There are numerous suppliers on line if you search. The correct number might be UC - MXA8511424.

This is a medium pressure return line filter used on Hydraulic systems industrially and vehicles. UCC is now part of Parker Hydraulics and this number will have been changed. I buy filter elements for Parker from Hydraulic Equipment Supermarkets, Innsworth Gloucester. This is a very old style unit but elements should be available, but will be quiet pricey ( probably £50 - £60 plus carriage). If this is on the return line from the cooler back to the gearbox then it may be cheaper to buy a more modern unit with a spin on canister filter. This looks like a 1/2" bsp unit , assuming that the hoses are 3/8" ( marked 06 somewhere on the hose) so as you only have low flows and little or no pressure surges any similar filter will do the job. If you want me to check for you and give any alternatives, PM with the full gearbox details/ oil flow rate etc Added - unless the element is just a fine wire gauze then it cannot be properly cleaned by washing in solvent and like a vehicle filter should be changed regularly. The green filter shows if it is blocked but will not tell the full story on low flow rates that you probably have.

If you have windows with the tilt back top glass then check that you do not have water seeping in through the locking swivel catch spindle hole. One of mine leaked on the spindle at this point and allowed water to drip just outside the line of the aluminium channel. The original seal washer had perished away.

I may be able to help you with some proper Tufnol insulation board, better than wood as it does not matter if it gets damp and cannot burn easily. If you are on the K & A or can travel below Devizes and interested PM me. Also have plenty of bolts and some large heat shrink sleeving.