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casper ghost

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casper ghost last won the day on February 5 2011

casper ghost had the most liked content!

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About casper ghost

  • Birthday 05/07/82

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Shropshire
  • Interests
    Vintage stuff....

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Student..
  • Boat Name
    Casper
  • Boat Location
    Llangollen/Shroppie canals

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    0
  • Website URL
    http://

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I wonder if I could get an old Landy thermostat and housing and somehow fit it into the cooling pipe, but also have a bypass/ shortcut so there is always some circulation. It's probably just that my swim tank is too big, but it's all guess-work..
  2. Wouldn't that give the same result; cold water being pumped into the engine once it's reached temp. The only difference being that some watet is circulating during warm up.
  3. Isn't what I'm considering doing exactly the same as how car engines are cooled, with a thermostat allowing cold water in at a certain point? My pump is an inline 12v pump which are used in cars as an auxiliary pump, it just circulates water through the engine and the swim tank, though it can be diverted from swim tank to the hot water tank. I plumbed the cooling system and don't know what you mean by a bypass. The pump does pump a lot of water, this engine is meant to be cooled through a gravity fed radiator, so my system is currently cooling it too well..
  4. There's a Renault 5 Turbo one that switches on at 78 c and then turns off at 68 c. So would that mean the coolant would average out somewhere between the 2 figures? or do people think the 78 c is too high? Casp'
  5. http://www.ebay.de/itm/Behr-Thermot-tronik-8-121-05-325-Temperaturschalter-Kuhlerlufter-fur-MAN-Merc/121916940572?_trksid=p2045573.c100507.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D43785%26meid%3Dddf62758ca8044e7b6367752d97c120f%26pid%3D100507%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26 This one is the right temp, but rather pricey. It doesn't state what model of car it is for, else I could just search for one nearer home..
  6. They are certainly very cheap, if they work well..
  7. The outlet hose exits at the highest point so it should get the hottest water. The hose is rubber so I guess I can't put an external one onto it. The outlet connectors are thick cast iron so not sure they will give a fair temp reading either. The ones that just have a probe to gain the temperature; how could I seal those? The digital ones look a bit fancy and cheap, so I wonder how reliable they would be. I like the simple, car type, screw in ones, but I can't find one.
  8. The Ruston manual states the cooling water outlet should be at 71 degrees C and should not exceed a max of 81. The cooling is done using a 12v Bosch car auxiliary pump, which comes on with the ignition. This means the engine takes ages to reach operation temperature. I aim to fit a thermo radiator fan switch into the outlet pipe which will then turn on the pump when the engine reaches temperature, but I've been scouring the net and car ones all seem to be set too high, I know you can get capillary ones that are adjustable, but I can't see how they can be sealed, so ideally I would like a standard threaded type. Anyone know a good source for me? Regards Casp'
  9. I was chatting with a boat painter only yesterday, he raves about the stuff. He says it dries very hard and it's no good putting your brushes in water as they go hard anyway. Rubbing strakes are there to take the knocks so any paint on them tends to get scraped off. Time will tell, I guess, though our family tend to think anything below the water is purely cosmetic anyway and bare steel would last just ad well. I am also in dock putting this stuff on right now... So we shall see, it certainly goes on easily.. casp'
  10. in dry dock now, swapped propeller for one the same diameter but a smaller pitch. Noticed some water on the edge of the head gasket, the previous owner used it as a vintage show engine and he had recently had the head off, hopefully it just needs the nuts torqueing down. Oil is fine and it isn't using water. I do have a new head gasket that I got by chance as a handy spare..
  11. It went better today as some reeds came out the back as I set off.. I'll try the smaller propeller and see how it goes. This vsh is limited to 1000 rpm which makes 7.5hp.. I haven't totally given up on it yet, but I'm not against keeping an eye out for something more suitable to boating..
  12. I set off behind them but I got delayed as my Dad's boat was firmly stuck in its mooring as the water level was low.. I went passed them when they stopped for lunch, then they went passed me when I stopped at Welshampton, where I still am..
  13. Chugged for about 3 hours today.. The boat is really slow, the engine isn't revving much with this big propeller, and my chain throttle link isn't working; the chain is still coming off and then slipping..more work needed to sort it. The silencer I made, which makes the engine sound lovely at low revs, sounds deafening when the engine is working in gear so I think I will swap it for the Fordson Major silencer I had with the previous engine. Fitting a smaller propeller this week so I'll see how it goes with that, but probably won't be faster, just more smooth.. To gain more speed I may end up changing the governor weights so it revs to 1500 rpm, like the marine version did. It's all a bit trial and error, it'll either end up working or I'll end up fitting an HA2 instead...though I quite fancy an FR2...
  14. Finished the engine room floor, did a bit of painting, boxed in all the cables and mess in the back cabin and lagged the exhaust..