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About Eeyore

  • Birthday 22/05/56

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  • Location
    Great Haywood
  • Interests
    Canals, boats and boat electrics, Preserved Railways, model railways.

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  • Occupation
    Senior work avoidance technician at Retired
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    Done Doing
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  1. Spot on! Two tops and the centre part (with the elongated port) from a series 2/3. The standard sleeved bypass valve thermostat has a slightly higher temperature setting, but probably ok.
  2. I knew I shouldn't have said "manual" valve! Just confused things. I suspect most vintage engine owners would tweak a manual bypass valve to maintain a steady engine temperature, a thermostatic one would do it for you. In effect this blends bypass coolant with coolant returning from the skin tank to maintain engine temperature. Thinking of its original radiator, what do you image the temperature of the bottom hose would be? Not cold, thats for sure. Its all about complicated things like thermal cycling, thermal shock etc about which I do not have detailed knowledge. That said, the vehicle industry has been paying out to have this system fitted to there engines for at least 60 years to improve warm up times and extend engine life.
  3. So you currently have two routes for the coolant, swim tank or hot water tank; both of which will cool the engine. A bypass can be plumbed (tee connection) from the output of the pump to the return hose, effectively a "short circuit" (or third route) that allows the coolant to recirculate around the engine. Vehicle engines would then use a thermostat to divert the hot coolant to the radiator; the main difference with vehicle engines is that most of the "plumbing" is internal to the engine. In normal use the coolant will take the course of least resistance through the bypass during warm up. A valve (manual or thermostatic) placed in the bypass can be closed to send the coolant to the swim tank or hot water tank when the engine is up to temperature.
  4. The usual way to control temperature is a combination of thermostat and bypass arrangement. The bypass allows coolant to circulate around the engine, moving heat from hot to cooler parts of the engine to ensure the engine heats up evenly. I don't think suddenly introducing cold coolant to hot parts of the engine by switching the pump is the best way to go. I can't see the pump or cooler in any of your other postings, do you have a bypass plumbed after the pump? Have you concidered running the pump at a lower speed during warm up? There are electric pumps and controllers available on the motor sports market, perhaps just a controller with your existing pump?
  5. A systems book is always a good idea, you've spend ages crawling around, it can save you money if you can tell tradesmen where things are. Best not connect them together, it will just bypass the keel cooler. Whilst at Toolstation buy the proper tool to cut the plastic pipes, leaks are often cased by ragged cuts or incorrect length of insertion. Tap connectors can be used to connect to the pump, you may need to trim the end to allow the rubber seal to seat on the pump. Avoid reusing fittings; but definitely don't mix parts between manufacturers.
  6. Thanks for the photos. Looks a bit untidy/poorly installed, but as a system it has the parts you would expect. Photo one, (pipes numbered from the top in the order you mentioned them). The fitting on pipes 2 and 4 looks like bleed valves, maybe automatic types? The red handled valve is on a redundant branch, hence no effect. You could certainly rationalise the number 6 pipework. Photo three and four, interestingly the "white" pipes are connected to the main flow and return to the skin tank (keel cooler). Not wrong, but more commonly the flow is taken from below the engine thermostat; same as heater connections on a vehicle. Some boatyards won't use push fit plumbing connected to the engine cooling system; the fitting are apparently rated for the pressure, but they have seen failures.
  7. Sorry its just a fault I have encountered - other faults are available
  8. Just take the broken one along, pick one that's a little bigger/robust. It's just a general purpose cheapie.
  9. Resistors usually sit across the back of the alternator warning lamps, they allow the alternator to function if the bulb fails - often left off the diagrams. The diodes are usually in a plastic sleeve or piece of heat shrink tube. The mechanical fixing of the wiring to the diodes is a bit poor, and can break the diode leads. A quick trip to Maplins and a few minutes to solder some flexible leads to the diodes should fix it. Steve (Eeyore)
  10. Further to Wotevers post: PRV (aka "the sticky out bit") has a passing resemblance to a small radiator valve, either screwed directly into the top of the rank or on a "tee" piece in the pipe from the top connection. They can be left with an open connection or a short open pipe going into the bilge. They often have a black or red plastic cap for adjustment; make a note of its position and then wind it a bit in either direction to see if that clears the internal seat. Steve (Eeyore) Ah you posted whilst I was typing!
  11. So you know an auto electrician with experience of working with 300 volt variable frequency 3 phase electrics; all in the same box as 230 volt 50Hz single phase? Really should be talking to Cox.
  12. The external indicator is useful, but it's not usual to have an internal bypass valve on a fuel system ( the red bit in the second photo ). Regular servicing (filter changes) would mitigate the likelihood of the bypass opening; but would you want to risk unfiltered fuel reaching the injection pump?
  13. Some Barrus engines have a small relay hanging off the harness part way between the engine and the control panel. The relay switches the supply to the shut down solenoid; you should be able to feel and hear it operating when the stop button is pressed. If you are lucky it's just corrosion on the socket and external parts of the relay which can be cleaned up after you unplug it. If you need to renew the relay be sure to get one with the same pin (blade) numbering; as there are two different types dispite them being physically indentical!! Shows the difference, about half way down the page. You can also use the 5 pin version as long as terminals 30 and 86 are the right way round; the extra pin is not connected to anything in the socket.
  14. Interesting that there has been no mention low smoke zero halogen LSZH (sometimes called low smoke halogen free LSHF) cable types. Thought the boat safety scheme would have something on the subject; or have I missed it (again).
  15. Extinguishers with an indicator are usual "stored pressue" types. Unscrewing the top will release the pressure rendering the extinguisher unservicable. There is also the risk of personal injury, and one hell of a mess to clear up. Compacted power can be prevented by regularly removing the extinguisher from its clip and giving it a good shake whilst holding it upside down. Failing that hold it upside down and tap the base with a rubber mallet.