spindle

Thank you Tony and Blizzard. I've moved the cable trunnion to the inner hole on the control end. There is now 1.2mm clearance from the stop each way which according to PRM is adequate. I wasn't happy once the RCR engineer changed the cable, and the two subsequent RCR engineers couldn't resolve the problem either. Happy to have it sorted now.

That's what concerns me.

I have a PRM150 gearbox controlled by a Teleflex 700SS. Having had a gear cable break and replaced, the gear level arm is now very hard up against the stops. The workshop manual states: With 38mm travel on the Teleflex control this is impossible to achieve, it hits the stops, and did knock it out once. Calculations suggest that the 31mm travel setting at the Teleflex end would not give enough travel. Has anyone got a similar set up and which holes are used on the control lever and gearbox operating lever? Any advice would be appreciated.

Tim, did you manage to retrofit these gauges in the end? I've got a Barrus Shire 40 Yanmar 4TNV88D engine with standard panel. I'd like to add temperature and oil pressure senders and gauges in a similar manner to how you describe. There is a spare hole for the additional temperature sender but not for the oil pressure sender; the latter I intend to fit with a y-connector. From the Barrus Shire manual (below), the parts necessary are: Oil pressure 1/8 - 27 NPTF 5 Bar Sender 1/8 x 1/8 x 1/8 BSP F/F/F Y Connector 1/8 BSP Male/Female Water temperature Water Temperature Sensor (3/8 BSP) I am a little confused because the above oil pressure arrangement mixes NPTF and BSP, which are not compatible. Barrus say the water temperature sensor is a VDO 3/8 BSP but VDO say they do not make a BSP version. I also can't find out whether the engine block is tapped NPT or BSP. Yanmar manuals indicate PT which could be either. I'd be pleased if anyone has any useful suggestions on how to proceed?

I based my choice on the pipe sizing chart from Calor Marine Shop. I have a pipe run of approximately 30 feet. The cooker is rated at 12.9 KW. As far as I can see from the chart, 3/8" pipe will only deliver 8.43 KW, and 1/2" pipe 24.18 KW at this length. I would like to be proven wrong on this as it would be much easier in 3/8" pipe!

I asked the same question of Hotpoint by email and received the following less than helpful response: Being somewhat disappointed at this I managed to elict a slightly better response following a few cross phone calls: As for the technical reasons, I'm still none the wiser. For the benefit of anyone thinking of fitting this cooker, another problem I seem to have found is the fact that the 12.9 KW rating, on calculation, necessitates 1/2 inch supply tube and that 1/2 inch fittings seem extremely difficult to come by particularly when trying to keep joints down to a minimum.

Thanks ChrisPy. My sentiments exactly. I tried the supplier, he had no idea and didn't offer to enquire. I shall persevere with Hotpoint, oops I mean Indesit, oops I mean Glen Dimplex. Hopefully someone online may have actually installed the same model (correctly) and can clarify. It is my intention to have the installation certified on completion.

Thanks wonderdust, but the cooker is an LPG model only. The problem I have is which side do I connect the LPG hose to and I would like to know the reasoning behind the requirement.

I am trying to install a Hotpoint HW170LIW Free Standing Gas Cooker. The manual indicated to make the LPG connection to the left hand side. Having now cut the pipe to fit the connection on the left-hand side looking from the front, I am having second thoughts about the wording in the manual. It states the following: "Gas connection The cooker should be connected to the gas-supply by a corgi registered installer. During installation of this product it is essential to fit an approved gas tap to isolate the supply from the appliance for the convenience of any subsequent removal or servicing. Connection of the appliance to the gas mains or liquid gas must be carried out according to the prescribed regulation in force, and only after it is ascertained that it is adaptable to the type of gas to be used. If not, follow the instructions indicated in the paragraph headed “Adaptation to different gas types”. On some models the gas supply can be connected on the left or on the right, as necessary; to change the connection, reverse the position of the hose holder with that of the cap and replace the gasket (supplied with the appliance). In the case of connection to liquid gas, by tank, use pressure regulators that conform to the regulation in force. The gas supply must be connected to the left of the appliance. Be sure that the hose does not pass through the rear of the cooker touching hot parts." I have contacted the manufacturer but they will only offer an opinion on the wording of the manual (which they believe implies left, from the rear) rather than explain the reasoning behind the technical requirement. 1. By 'left of the appliance', do they mean port or starboard? 2. Why does it matter for LPG, but not for other gas? 3. Has anyone else fitted a similar cooker, and which way round have you done it? Thanks in anticipation of any advice.

Thanks for the interest & comments. The future addition of a cratch cover was of concern. The new photo should clarify things and shows one of the two locker vents. the upstand to the cabin doors is a couple of inches with ventilation louvres in the doors 3 or 4 inches above that. I am looking at installing 2 x 3.9kg cylinders, regulator, valve plus bubble tester below the lip of the cranked lid.

Thanks son

Its the starboard bow of the boat outside the front of the cabin built into the gunnel.

Hi, Im looking for advice/views on the problem I may/may not have caused myself. The plan was as per photo to locate 2 small gas bottles in the housing as shown. I am about to install the gas system to a cooker only. (to be checked by CORGI). Whilst I am sure that I can comply with the BSS (the bottles etc. will be below the the opening) I note that BS EN ISO10239 says that "cylinder lockers when closed will be vapour tight to the craft interior openable only from outside the craft". The housing has two external bottom vents. Should by some means gas escape over the lid then no doubt it would drain out through the cockpit vents. The photo is an old one, I am now on the water so am loath to alter my original design. The housing lid and raised water tank lid were intended to, and do, provide ideal access steps for my elderly mother. Whilst not keen on gas, I was happy with the safety aspect of my intended cylinder location, however ISO10239 has put doubt in my mind. Other views would be appreciated.

Casually watching from my narrowboat the local angling club electro-stunning pike presumably to remove them from the canal, I enquired as to what power was being used and was somewhat surprised with the answer 10A at 110V in very close proximity to my boat. It crossed my mind as to what effect, if any, this would have on my galvanic isolator.

When I fitted my Morso back boiler I seem to remember that there was a baffle plate and a smoke hood (a bulbous piece of metal) both of which interferred with the location of the boiler. I queried it with the very helpful chap at Morso who advised removal of both items. I recall that I was given the impression that the smoke hood was a new innovation by the manufacturers. The Morso chap also sent me fitting instructions for the boiler - a series of photographs which were very helpful. As I wouldn't like to try and reinstall everything I hope you are advised the same.