Canal World

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more!

This message will be removed once you have signed in.

  • Announcements

    • RichM

      Changes to our Site Chat   05/04/17

      Invision Power Services Inc, the developers of our forum & chat software will be retiring the existing Chat functionality of the site as of May this year. (You may read more about this here) As such, we are in the position of finding an alternative solution given we believe that our chat functionality still has a place on Canal World. We're currently trialing out new "Chatbox" software on the site which you may view both via the bottom of the main page or by clicking "Chatbox" at the top right of the page. We appreciate the design & functionality is different though we welcome your feedback. 

Mike Jordan

Member
  • Content count

    416
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About Mike Jordan

  • Birthday 29/02/44

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Derby
  • Interests
    Ive been a waterways enthusiast for more than 40 years and a boat owner/builder for about 35. In that time Ive built and fitted a number of shells and fitted out others made by various fabricators. Although Ive fitted ready built engines I much prefer the financial and quality advantages of marinising my own, I have always had a liking for the leyland 1.8 diesel. (2013 Update)Author of - "Narrow Boat & Dutch Barge Joinery Designs for Boat Fitters" ISBN - 978- 0-9576824-0-5
    (And still making the occasional cratch board)

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Woodworker/Writer

Recent Profile Visitors

6,240 profile views
  1. There is a simple rule to remember with conventional staircase locks - first one in your favour and all the rest against you.
  2. As a tradesman with a father who is capable of sheet metalwork you should be well placed to build your own shell.I have a similar background but had no family members who could do metalworkers but Have build several shells in past years. Fabrication is easier than woodworking, no joints are involved, you just run welds .where the plates join. Visit a few boat builders and look at the products. They are simple constructions and £10,000 buys a lot of new steel but not much in terms of ready made boats.
  3. Hi Daniel Thanks for the help, Ive got it sorted now. Mike
  4. I have managed to find nine of the photos from my gallery, are the others lost or awaiting discovery somewhere?
  5. Haven't done it personally but I have seen it done quickly and easily with a large gas torch and a scraper. Obviously not an inside job and one requiring some care to avoid damage to paintwork.
  6. They will normally fit diagonally through the front doorway. It's much better and easier to make a template of the required shape and cut them outside of the boat. It's catch 22 ! If you are using the shell as your storage area. You need to buy in bulk to get the cost down but moving the sheets around inside the boat as you work burns up time and energy and slows progress. It's better to buy as required and install the sheets before buying the next batch. Cutting four foot wide sheets in a six foot wide area is one of the great joys of fitting out. Best of luck with the project. Mike.
  7. Doc1.doc If I have this right you should be able to see a sketch of my suggested method. Mike.
  8. I think the best method is a rebated strip of timber screwed to the bulkhead with a strip of timber under the top tread engaging with it. No bolts or other fittings are required an nothing is fitted to nor are holes drilled into the floor. Removal is just a matter of lifting the steps about 25mm.
  9. There was a excellent article on this in the Waterways World some time ago, written by A fine young chap called Mike Jordan. Look it up in the back issues, the foam sandwich panels are not worth having compared to sound proofing the engine space for a few pounds.
  10. For each 12 foot of length of the real thing you will get 1 inch of length in the model. The Vulcan is about 97 feet long so your model will be 8 inches long by my reckoning. My wife sent for some plastic flowers some time back when they arrived they would have looked good displayed in a thimble.
  11. Am I right in thinking that Alde formerly sold finned pipe with a copper pipe through the middle? I wouldn't dispute the corrosion claims but I feel sure that I have used the copper type in the past.
  12. The ideal answer is a camera trap, sometimes called a trail camera. I used one to sort a neighbours "badger" nocturnal visitor, that turned out to be a rat, which he found much less attractive! The camera provided a short video lit by infa red light and triggered by movement. Well worth the cost to find out what a variety of wild life is visiting my garden after dark.
  13. There is always some risk of uneven support distorting the hull when a boat is taken out of the water, whether using a dry dock where the bostocks may not be level or the boat may have a slight curve, or using a trailer. By far the easiest way to damage it is to lift without a spreader frame, some crane operators will say "don't worry mate we will use a long set of lifting chains or cables" this no doubt reduces the squeeze to some extent but it's a stupid idea to lift anyone's pride and joy this way. In my experience the only real motive is to save the operator the job of rigging the spreaders or lifting frame, a job that takes about 15 minutes.
  14. While walking back to the boat one night on the staffs and Worcester we stopped to talk to a fisherman who had a net full of them, my wife was unimpressed by the idea of any sort of fish with teeth like that.
  15. I had a similar problem with a 1.8 a few years back, it took some time to find the cause of the problem but it turned out that I had caused it myself. I had previously taken the head off and lapped in the valves, on reassembly I had put valve stem seals on both inlet and exhaust valve stems (they were included in a set of pattern parts which included the head gasket and all other parts for the job) the engine didn't originally have seals on the exhaust valve stems. It turned out that the heat of the exhaust valves had welded the rubber seals to the stems after a few hours of use, this turned them into superb little pumps which went up and down with the valves, forcing a small amount of oil down the stem with each stroke. I managed to shine a torch through the valve spring to spot the problem and then found that it's possible to put the Pistons on TDC and remove the valve collets using an ad hoc compressor without removing the head again! It was not difficult to do but I needed a third hand when replacing the collets. I considered myself fortunate that the oil oozing through a joint in the exhaust system and contaminating the obligatory lagging hadn't started a fire. It may be that this is not the cause of your problems but it must be worth a look! Mike.