Broughton 2

Thanks Dennis. I'll get in touch with Mike. Alan

I've trawled the site search engine results for information on where I might obtain a perforated stainless steel flue guard, no joy! I have this fear someone may reach out in an unsteady moment and burn themselves on the stove flue. Certain I've seen a boat with such flue but so far can't find helpful chandler. Can any of you guys help me locate? Thanks

Can anyone reccomend/ suggest a decent quality portable FM radio with MP3 facility that will run both off 12V (boat leisure batteries) and 230v mains, cost no more than say £150? Alternatively, is there any particular radio(s) to avoid? We are not a liveaboard so a portable radio rather than fixed (such as car radio or somesuch) would be overall more useful between boat and home. MP3 so that we can conveniently take lots of music aboard. 'Though I would not baulk if DAB were an option I'm advised it's difficult for reception in lots of areas whereas FM is more reliable and therefore a must have. Thanks

There may be something in this oil thing! I've noticed after cleaning up a diesel spill on paintwork that it does seem to shine a bit better. Also, I recollect many years ago being advised to put a spoonful to parrafin (I think it was) in the bucket of water when washing a car.

I've used MER for many years on car paintwork and rate it highly. Unless someone votes against it, or offers better, I'll take your advice to use it on gloss paintwork but not on the non-slip areas. The bio-degradable Halfords product sounds just the job for non-slip surfaces. Thanks.

Shall be grateful for advice on best methods and materials for cleaning and protecting paintwork above waterline on a steel hull NB not going anywhere near salt water, in particular with an eye on the effect any cleaning or polishing agents may have on future work required when repaint becomes necessary. For example, some cleaning agents (Fairy liquied?) may not be good for long term protection of paintwork and I believe using some of the silicone based polishes may present problems for future repainting work (difficult to remove the silicone?). Advice on cleaning and protecting non-slip paint on cabin roofs, such as 'Interdeck' paint, would be especially welcome. Alan

OK, forget it. I apologise for not paying attention! Looking back to post 16 I now see the CIN on a boat without transom (NB) shall be within 300mm of the stern and that's where we must look. Alan

Thanks Carl for the photo. So, on a narrowboat, just where is this "transom" upon which we are supposed to stamp the CIN number? It might help buyers and other curious types to know just where to look. Alan

A bit off-topic but, be kind to a beginner and say exactly where the transom is on a narrowboat? Jim Shead definition:- "A flat, often D-shaped panel forming the stem of certain types of wooden craft." Is it the bulkhead immediately forward of the swim? I have manufacturer markings on forward wall of the weed hatch and also on the skin cooler. Alan

Get onto Compass mailing list to receive time-to-time discount offers. At same time I bought the Charger I also bought a Stirling 160 Amp Alternator to Battery Charger, AB12160, for £202 (thank god I'm nearing the end of the major fitting-out costs). I was in error about the postage though, they charged £6.50 for both (not each). Link to the 40 Amp charger:- http://www.compass24.com/watersports/abnet...pl?ARTNR=986212 Current price can be had with 10% discount, I believe. Alan

You might want to try Compass Watersports at www.compass24.com, I recently bought a Sterling 1240 charger for £224 inc post.

OK Chris you've sold it to me. All I have to do now is find a way of positioning the heater loom so that the loom fuses are conveniently accessable from inside the cabin rather than having to lift engine/battery decking each time for access. At first sight it won't be easy.

Do's and Don't's advice for Webasto installation says we should "not take power for the heater from or through a switch panel and never via a seperate switch." We are invited to connect the heater direct to battery terminals. Shall be grateful for comments on this advice. Firstly, it is said that if the heater is turned off from the main supply damage can occur to the heat exchanger. I suppose this is ref to "never via a seperate switch" and I'm Ok with that as I see the need to allow the heater to go through its run down cycle. Nonetheless, if I'm careful not to to use such switch to turn off the heater until it is at rest then I think a seperate switch is OK. Anyone disagree? Secondly, it is said "switch panel supplies are unreliable and can cause surges or spikes from other equipment which will cause the heater to trip out." What do we think of this advice for a boat electrical system running only straightforward 12V componentry such as lights, water pumps, TV, radio and no inverter (not a livaboard and I prefer to power everything from 12V)? For tidiness of wiring (not keen on extra cables hanging off battery terminals) and a preference for the option of being able to switch the heater circuit on/off conveniently I would rather connect through a trip in my 12V switch panel. Why not? Alan

If it's a new build I would ensure any inaccessible walls are sprayfoamed before installation then rust will be no more of an issue than elsewhere. The tank may at times gather condensation and whilst it won't harm it you may not want condensate dripping into the hull, in which case think about insulating the tank itself. Bugs and dwarfs? It's not a proper boat without them!

If we are offered distilled/ ionised water cheaply, for batteries, how can we test to ensure it's not tap water?

If you're talking of a Centaflex-M the alignment is same as for Centaflex-AM where max misalignment is specified as 2 degrees. Data and instructions for alignment are on the Centa web site but not easy to locate. I e-mailed them (post@centa-uk.co.uk) and they returned a link to the PDF files, good service! Alan

My advice would be to hold back, view more boats (some with moorings perhaps, but others too). Remember it's not like housebuying - you can buy a boat almost anywhere and cruise it / crane it / get someone else to cruise it, down to London for you. At best it might make your money go farther and at worst you'll have a lot more choice in layout / style / age and condition of boat. Take your time and let this one go if need be, is my advice. Agreed! Act in haste, repent at leisure.

Condensation in summer isn't a problem but in winter, when water is cold, it appears even when engine hasn't run for days! Engine bay ventilation is typical (two good sized vents). I suspect the semi-trad stern with it's canopy may be retaining heat in the engine bay (even in winter the dark green steel hull can get quite warm when the sun does shine). Don't other folks have same problem, is it just me? Thanks for the idea of Kingspan with ply, sounds OK.

Semi-trad.

Open to suggestions as to fixing. Possibly glue or maybe the sides could be painted with engine bay/bilge paint and the insulation material then applied before the paint dries?

Shall be grateful for suggestions for hull lining materials to counter condensation in an engine bay. Must be reasonably durable against knocks and bruises and also fireproof. Cork has been suggested but I'n not sure whether or not it can be made fireproof to suit safety needs.

If you were at the BW moorings on the Fossdyke near Lincoln the City Council would most certainly be after you and that's for sure! I do know of other moorings however where liveaboards do not pay Council tax but I suspect those folks have not registered their address with the Local Authority and will not be on the electoral role.

Look on German eBay. I bought new Webasto kit there and saved hundreds. Alan

I note on the Willdo site they offer 'Hydraulic drive 360' which, if suitable for a narrowboat, offers I suppose the prospect of better reverse steering. 'Though it wouldn't please some I say bring it on!