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Batavia

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    Consulting Engineer

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  1. If you are serious about obtaining an excellent seal, then use a cable transit system, such as this: https://www.powerandcables.com/product/product-category/roxtec-crl-cable-transit-frame/ Sit down before you start looking at prices! Edited to add: For single cables, just use plastic stuffing glands - cheap (in small sizes) and effective.
  2. Not so much guessing if you use a Fuller's calculator - the scale is 500 inches long!
  3. Selway Fisher have a design for a narrowboat (and a wide beam!)- and have produced other designs in the past. https://www.selway-fisher.com/Mcover30.htm#AVONCLIFF NARROW
  4. I normally use rigid uPVC conduit. For 12 volt circuits I have just drilled holes into the conduit, fitted them with grommets and brought the wires out directly to fittings that are close. For 230 volt circuits, I use normally use singles and proper conduit fittings throughout.
  5. 16mm LDPE pipe is widely used for irrigation systems and compression fittings (in addition to useless barbed ones) for it are readily available. No idea how its wall thickness compares with the boat piping.
  6. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  7. No, I am Chris! Frank has kept his various boats there for decades too.
  8. Correct! You get the paved area fronting the canal and a microscopic garden round the back. Your recollection is correct! We moored our boats (2 x Daedalus + Batavia) there, on and off, for 40 years.
  9. No, its the house which was built next door about 11 years ago, on the site of the old boat shed (which was partially burnt down by a local juvenile arsonist after the boat hire business closed).
  10. A little place for sale on the GU in Berkhamsted. https://www.rightmove.co.uk/properties/137692502#/?channel=RES_BUY
  11. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  12. We had one like this many years ago and the previous occupier had managed to break off the head of the bleed screw flush with the radiator, with the result that it was more or less invisible.
  13. Another vote for them being a crap design! Apart from the "staying open" problem, the screw which secures the bottom end of the stay only had about 1 1/2 turns of thread engaged in the tapped block on the frame. One of ours fell out with a stripped thread. After that I removed the stays and adopted the wooden block approach.
  14. Also there are times when you might want to throw the angle grinder into the water! I was using one with a flap wheel when a clump of flaps flew off and the wheel was then so out of balance that the angle grinder started vibrating so violently that I could barely hold onto it. As I tried to switch it off, the only other way of stopping it seemed to be to throw it into the water and hope that the RCD worked. A fraction of a second before I did this, I managed to switch it off. Two lessons: First, flapwheels aren't necessarily as safe as one might think and second, only use an angle grinder with a very easy-to-operate On/Off switch. I once owned a Hitachi angle grinder which required two hands to operate the miniscule switch. Never again.
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