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Strads

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About Strads

  • Birthday 18/01/1956

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southern GU
  • Interests
    Many and varied - Married to Mary.We like to travel, walking, mountaineering, sun bathing, Music (live) Banters, the odd glass of beer and several bottle of wine, wood fires / bar b qs RN engines DM2 good DM3 Better !We have a 70 Ft Northwich trader "Lincoln" and the fit out continues in fact it goes on and on but we can see the progress and we have restocked the red wine lockers..
  • Occupation
    Logistics
  • Boat Name
    Lincoln No 2
  • Boat Location
    GU south - ish

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  1. A RHD drive hand start!... Ive seen a pair of DM3 (on the same day) with opposing set up's, one left hand drive and one right, "Paths" round the engine room also varied to avoid it being an "issue"... both engines had different gearboxes. but having seen 12 different dm3 installations ive only seen 3 with the same gearbox... also the photo's showing the decompression levers are different from most RN's ive seen/used.
  2. Tony, you like me are able to read, note, comment according to how you find/see things,,, that is what I did, without being rude, I except that my experience may not be as wide as some, but also certain individuals claim to been there and sorted it when they havnt.. either,,,
  3. Tony,, it may appear that way to you, but having owned one for 17 years and seen quite a few.. (probably 40 plus in engine holes and knowing the Dave at RN no one has had an engine powered bilge pump. Thanks,, just show's there is a variant out there,,, they do look like non original pumps etc, but may well be from as new in time my oil pump (RN ) is in that approx location..
  4. what a load of bolleaux.. rather depends on how weird your boat and its equipment actually is. as in what RN fitting are you twatting on about?? bilge pump is just that, they dont generally use the engine,,,,,,
  5. Ummh, A big question as to why you would strip out the hand start just because it makes some noise.. To remove the chain in the hand start arm is piece of work,,, not sure I'd rush and do it,,, On my engine the decompression lever means you turn the engine over - by hand using the fly wheel is relatively easy, maybe an initial knack but I have also started mine by rotating the engine flywheel... once she is turning close the decomp levers and on the next compression she runs.... Mines a DM3 - but all the bits notes apply to a dm2,,,,
  6. Again Ive been absent for a few weeks, but having discussed with several well known RN engineers and dave at the "factory"... when cold getting 60-80 il/sq in is norm but as it warms it drops to the 15psi (give or take) and runs like that when warm all day... As important is too use a good sae 30 oil,, and check the oil level every morning before starting ad top up sump if required... most weeks when on trips, i spend a couple of mimutes checking oil pipes are all tight and secure..
  7. A DM3 will also start and run on one cyl,, the issue is as much about gearbox type, size of boat & that load.. mine would just move on one,,, very easy on 2 cyls and on 3 will pull most people backwards... guess simplest thing would be disconnect fuel pipe and insert a blacker into the fuel manifold,,, ditto decompression lever,,,, just unbolt..
  8. Just awoken to see this thread subject and being a DM3 owner for 12 years or so, will add my feedback. I understood from talking to several owners and Dave Bixter that DM engines were rated at 22hp for a DM2 and 33hp for a DM3. I would suggest that these are understated and real world numbers unlike some more modern, higher revving items,, Performance depends on boat style, weight (only just) and water conditions, my boat moves well at low revs,, eg @ 100 pm. but can also blast along at @ 1200 if required..at the top end she does indeed perform well, likewise fuel use also reflects use,, gearbox type/prop size etc etc I have had to replace a few parts and strip the engine.. in some senses parts are indeed expensive, but if rated over say 30 years among running costs then she has not been expensive to run at all. All parts have been available of the shelf! from RN, I wouldn't say cheap but rather good value, I've known some others replace parts 2 or 3 times with other makes,,,the associated costs being some what more overall than mine, but also recognise that you are buying an 80 year old working item,,,steady checking and maintenance is key sound wise a dm3 is softer and rather pleasant on the ears,,,
  9. sue. hi in reading I assume you have a mechcanical water pump - there is a small grease cup - i assume you check/fill daily as required,,, I didnt realise that and mine let rip,,, and self destructed,,, I replaced with and electrical central heating pump (small marine type) wasnt that cheap but 8 years since,, without knowing how yours is plumbed in,,, i cant be specific,,, but mine was a dm3,,, so sympathise cheers john
  10. May try and pop in for nod of respect, have the jumper and Lincoln is moored there.
  11. Any one know if any boatyards or similar are buying narrow boats currently ?? I have Barry Hawkins Nortwich Trader which I may need to sell and would probably not want to go through having folks turn up at the mooring. She has an RN DM3, runs well and in generally good order. Thanks John
  12. Sounds more like interpretation... and how many hours a week is a user thing.. but @ 100 hours,, oil filter may easily last a change or two, oil filter metal gauze is course scale,,, antifreeze in coolant as a new block is eye wateringly expensive...
  13. Mattt is referring to "kyle", She is now up for sale - I guess Brian wants to move on. I also have the same filters fitted and would suggest that putting the oil from your own engine into the fuel is fine,, better lubed etc. The engine dosnt notice a small amount. With larger percentages it will on some days "smoke " more, Cost is 2 filters @ £20 a year. saving @ 400 a year. over 3 years,.. with the need for new injectors every couple of years, if they wont blow clear at the factors. I would recommend a 25% use as no issue, oddly enough people gave free fuel...!! BUT don't do it without having these fine mesh filters.
  14. Would agree a classic sae 30, every 100 hours or so, check levels daily!
  15. I can only throw a comment back. Firstly RN have over the last 3 years provided all parts required, gears, head, rings, grommets, gaskets, bolts by return of post or off the self. Your comment re them not having something available appear ill informed. Certain items may not be off the shelf, but Dave will invariably try and help and even manufacture. What then puts people off is the "price" for custom made. There is a cost to older engines, but non availability is not the issue. As too maintenance. a Dm2 and 3 are similar. change engine oil every 100 hours or so, suggest oil filter at the same time. Check every day before departure that level is in range Fuel filter - again once a year, more if you do longer trips. Check tappets several times a year. Air filter - clean and check the gauze, Walter / antifreeze - check level daily, change annually Water pump - depending on type = grease all bits daily before setting off is the best advise.. I do have the RN manual. its not a big document !
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