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    • RichM

      Changes to our Site Chat   05/04/17

      Invision Power Services Inc, the developers of our forum & chat software will be retiring the existing Chat functionality of the site as of May this year. (You may read more about this here) As such, we are in the position of finding an alternative solution given we believe that our chat functionality still has a place on Canal World. We're currently trialing out new "Chatbox" software on the site which you may view both via the bottom of the main page or by clicking "Chatbox" at the top right of the page. We appreciate the design & functionality is different though we welcome your feedback. 

RD1

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  • Content count

    149
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About RD1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Staffordshire

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Retired
  • Boat Location
    River Thames
  1. I totally agree too, but to help clarify, the current load in amps, is actually measured from the return, ie 0 volt line. (It's the same current flowing in the circuit where ever you measure it). Some people might think that the current should be measured from the positive supply going to the load, and I think this is where a few people are getting lost. Hope it helps.
  2. On the Broads there is a lot of friction between moorers wanting to double moor. The Broads Authority have said that permission must be sought prior to coming along side, and permssion can be refused. There were simple rules, the boat attempting to double moor could not be longer than the one already on the bank. Suits me Sir... not many boats less than our 23' length struggle to find a mooring. However, our boat is very unstable with a 100 kg crossing the foredeck, if someone stepped aboard without knowledge, then kettles and boiling pans could spill, causing injury, wine and beer, lost, serious stuff. If I stood up from the dinette just as a moorer walked across the deck, he might trip, crack a window, etc who is responsible for damage and personal injury? You also have antisocial running of engines or generators and central heating exhausts, do you check which side these exit before double mooring? Water pumps, electric macerators, loud tvs and stereos, rattling of calor gas bottles, and slamming of locker lids... Why would anyone want to encourage double mooring? I came to the boat to get away from it all. It hasn't affected us, for the length reason mentioned, but I can see it causing friction. Oh... I'm thinking of getting a sign made... "If you are thinking of double mooring... Warning... I SNORE ! " Richard
  3. But had he used an "O" ring in the first place, then a simple box spanner would have worked, without removing any pipework, and the job complete in half an hour, and the post would never had been raised. You start off simple, then sometimes you need to step back and review the next step. Is this the right way to go? I was amazed at how much punishment that flange could take, I was certain it would either collapse or shear off. I have done a couple and I was advised a shock load rather than increasing torque. Keeping it full of water was a good tip though.
  4. Ahh so is this where the term water hammer comes from too. You "hear" about these things lol... Pleased you got it out, I don't need to keep looking at the post now. Well done.
  5. I agree with the previous post, if the ignition light bulb has gone open circuit, and you can't get to it, you need a length of wire croc clip on one end, say a 12 volt 5 watt bulb( car side light bulb) in series, with insuluated terminals, with the remainder of the wire with a croc clip on that end. So one croc clip on a 12 volt live, say engine starter positive, then hunt out the alternator and place the croc clip on the thinner terminal, the exciter coil connection, on the alternator, make sure the wire cannot snag on the drive belt, then go through a start process, initially the bulb will light, then should go out when the engine runs and if this is the cause, then you should have power. It's amazing what you can fault find with a 12 volt bulb and a bit of wire, fuse checking, continuity. Good luck, Richard Edited to say , I think this trip you need to be organising a way to get those batteries charged, if at home you may need to take a trolley, or find electric shore power. The batteries if left will soon become unserviceable, and they may have lost some capacity already.
  6. Add antifreeze and radweld together, no one has suggested that. You don't mention where the leak is, if it's a cracked engine block, or heat exchanger? You might want to up the anti, and use "kseal" in place of rad weld. Whether you attempt a permanant repair or not depends if you can live without the generator from the day it becomes unservicable, and I hope you have some overheat device to shut it down in the event of a complete drain down. Richard
  7. If I formally asked the Environment Agency whether I needed an anchor on the non tidal Thames, then if they say, like a non professional might say, that in their experience you don't need one, on the basis that they haven't had a total loss or loss of life yet, then they would leave themselves wide open to being sued for loss of life, damage to property or stress. They would be very foolish to say that. They may of course say ( I do not know exactly what they would say, as I haven't contacted them, but reading other posts, it does look more likely) it is advisory, not compulsory in order to safely navigate the system in normal conditions. After all they advise not to cruise in strong streams, but you might find yourself in one. When we moved to the Thames, we placed on board a 7kg Danforth, with chain, looking at various websites it looks like it is adequate for a 23' grp cruiser, under normally expected conditions most of the time. It happened to be a spare one off my Father. I intend to treat the Danforth as a disposable safety device, a bit like an air bag on a car, if it does the job once and saves injuries or losses, then cheap at twice the price lol. I hope to be able to recover it, but safety of the crew and vessel take priority. So In my opinion, I would not venture on the Thames without a suitable main anchor, but then a secondary anchor may be advised too. For that we have a 4kg grapnel. Even a small anchor may drag enough to keep the bow to the current, and help reduce the chances of a "broadside approach to a weir, moored boats or other dangers, whereby the river water will build up along the entire length of the boat, rather than the width of the beam, which could cause a rapid increase in water level behind and under the hull, thus increasing the "roll over" moment of the hull. Also a boat dragging an anchor in a current will allow a boat to steer closer to the bank, and may even allow the crew to secure the boat. Taking longer to get to a danger, will give more time to review the situation, maybe get a vital phone call in, before the phones are swamped. Yes, (in my opinion) you need an anchor, like your airbags in your car, you hope not to use them, but unlike your airbags in the car, you can still move the anchor to another boat, if suitable, or sell it, and the cost of ownership is minimum, for great peace of mind. Richard
  8. Probably not an unreasonable theory test for series wound motors, where there it is a wired field coil in series with a wired armature, with carbon brushes, but would not work for induction motors where it uses a start up capacitor, examples of which can be found on some table mounted bench saws etc. Induction motors usually start off slowly with a big hum at the beginning lol I am not sure what these would do to an inverter though, as it is a very inductive load.
  9. D@mn auto spelling correct has a lot to answer for lol. Actually my wife does have a curly tongue, I wondered what caused that. Thanks for the heads up on that one lol...
  10. We had a small inverter, capable of running a laptop or my wife's curling tongues in the car, her gas ones were faulty. However, when we tried her other electric ones, it took out the inverter immediately, even though the power was less than 1/4 of the inverter's capability. The inverter did not recover. I stripped it down, I went straight for the large driver transistors, removed them from the circuit and tested them with the multimeter, and observed that the readings were different for both identical transistors, I took a chance, ordered a pair of transistors, 60p I think... and the inverter repaired and still working, but those curling tongues are banned. Caution, I am an electronic engineer, so I am aware of the risks, messing with high voltages that are generated by 12 volts can be fatal. There was no guarantee that this repair would work, or continue to work reliably, or that the output voltage of the inverter would be within the manufacturers tolerances. Richard
  11. We have an 800 watt modified sine wave inverter, I have an old variable speed 400 watt Black and Decker drill, and when cutting large holes is quite capable of tripping the inverter. If I take it easy, less force, it works fine. So my set up of 2:1 (800 W: 400 W ) just about works, I think you need a bigger inverter, or use a multitool, although my inverter didn't like that, tripped it straight away, so I found some shore power lol.
  12. I saw that too when I was teaching, BUT it is a high risk experiment and requires blast shields, eye protection for everyone in the room, a lot of sand to stop liquid thermite from burning through the floor, through the lower classroom and into the basement. There must be a proceedure for that, and also loads of risk assessments to fill in and be approved etc but that day I became a child again... awesome to watch. You never would guess who was the first one to ask the teacher to do it again lol...!!! Well he had the risk assessments approved... Set up of course took a bit longer as some of the sand had turned to glass lol.
  13. Most CE approved 230/240 volt to 110/115 volt isolation transformers should be isolated, in to out, in fact the output winding is centre tapped to the incomming earth, so the output is still say 110 volts, but +/- 55 volts to earth. So if you stood in a bucket of water, you are at risk from 55 volts ac not 110, and not 230 volts. Combining the outputs from two of these transformers might give you 230/240 volts but you will have to remove the centre tap of each transformer from earth, and thus affecting the insulation breakdown voltage across each output winding. Any of the output windings would normally only have to sustain 55 volts to earth, but now, one of the windings could see 230/240 volts on the output to the disconnected earth. You can virtually guarantee that these transformers have not been tested or even designed for that. You might want to do an insulation "flash test" on them, but all adds to the cost. So do not combine the outputs of two industrial isolation transformers. I hope I have made it clear. Richard
  14. If it's a citroen picasso, I know why, and how to cure it. The Little under floor boxes in the rear were part filled with water. Easy and cheap fix.
  15. I would suggest that each 10 amp socket has it's own fuse, 10 or even 15 amp, but with a master fuse of say 50 Amp.Cable on supply and return both of suitable current carrying capacity. The reason being, most cigar lighter plugs are not fused, so you would need to blow a 50 amp fuse with low amp cables. Look at extension leads, some with USB outlets, input wiring barely capable of carrying 5-10 amps let alone 50 amps. Also the connectors on cigar type sockets are not designed for two cables on each terminal, each carrying 50 amps. Also there is reliability, if one socket is taken out by a faulty appliance, it only takes out one 10 or 15 amp fuse, the other sockets should still remain intact. Hope it makes sense. Richard