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Chambo

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Toton, Nottingham
  • Occupation
    Retired
  • Boat Name
    Cloud nine
  • Boat Location
    Shardlow

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  1. The mains fridge, which was "at temperature" and the TV. It didn't print anything out and I didn't see what it said. The lad using it just said they were ok.
  2. The batteries are probably 4 years old, they were tested by Streethay wharf boatyard on the Coventry with their "all singing" tester and I was assured they were in good health. Just a volt meter and an ammeter when the engine is running
  3. On an earlier trip this year I had a problem with my batteries not holding a charge overnight. At the time I was having trouble with my 12v fridge, this was changed for a new 240v fridge freezer unit. The batteries were all took of the boat once fully charged, left for a few days and then tested, they all showed 13v. One thing I did discover was a broken clamp on the battery bank which was replaced. Thinking that might have been the problem we planned to go out for an autumn cruise this week, the boat has been plugged in to shore power for the last two days to get the fridge freezer down to temperature. I disconnected the shore power at 1630 this afternoon and by 2130 this evening the inverter cut out because the voltage had dropped below 12v. I have a battery bank of 4 12v 110 amph batteries for leisure, sterling 2kw inverter, all led lighting, small 240v TV and a water pump. The inverter is over ten years old but not showing any alarms and works perfectly until the volts drop then it cuts out as it should. I'm at a bit of a loss to understand what's happening, has anyone got any ideas?
  4. I get the logic behind defrosting and starting again but the unit has been fully defrosted just one week ago.
  5. There is a good two inches clearance all round, so plenty of room for air flow. My thoughts now are do I buy a new 12 volt fridge freezer or go for a domestic 240v one, boat is fitted with a 2 kw inverter and a 440 amp hr battery bank. Only thinking this because of the big difference in costs between 12v and 240v fridge/freezers.
  6. I've just pulled the unit out to have a look at the fins and the back is all boxed in so you can't actually see the condenser fins, it is obviously how it is designed because it's not something I've done!
  7. Hi Tony, any idea on how to check?
  8. Thermostat appears to be working ok, compressor is cutting in and out it just seems to run for a long time when it does cut in
  9. Hi David, door seal is in good condition and freezer door is fully shut Thanks
  10. Hi, I've had the aforementioned fridge freezer for a few years now (9), on our current trip out I have noticed that the compressor is cutting in and running for a long time before cutting out, I would expect this if it had only just been switched on but not after three days traveling. The freezer compartment is full and the food is all frozen, the fridge is full and food is all cool. I wondered if anyone had anything similar happen to them. Thanks
  11. No, it’s a solid metal housing with an air intake funnel, the same as you would find on many old cars from the 60’s and 70’s, the two rings of metal gauze sit inside this and the fine mesh would be between the two rings. Looking at your photo, the air filter shown, the gauze around the outside is actually smaller gauge than the two circles of metal gauze inside the filter housing.
  12. Ok, you’re misunderstanding me when I say the air filter is a piece qauze, what is actually in there are two circles of metal the same height as the air cleaner housing, these are literally peppered with holes of approximately 8mm. Originally there would have been some fine gauze material between these two circles of metal that you would have taken out, cleaned in parrafin and lightly oiled before replacing, this fine gauze is no longer there!
  13. All very good advice but if you refer back to my reply to Tony Brooks the engine was fully reconditioned three years ago. Thanks for the offer but I have a workshop manual.
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