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TugCaggy

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Birmingham
  • Boat Name
    Caggy
  • Boat Location
    BCN

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  1. Barry, I've just investigated and I do indeed have a water jacket on my reduction gearbox that has to be drained - I really appreciate you bringing this to my attention, as I had no idea it was water cooled. Many thanks mate!
  2. Hi David - Thx for your post. The engine is drained down and the pump has a drain plug on the bottom, so no problem there. Interesting to hear about mud box and you not having any problems, as I too was not going to drain that down. I have a big old heavy mud-box from a bollinder (sp?) with plenty of room for expansion, so don't think I'll have an issue with it.
  3. Many thx BMW for your helpful post - knowing the leathers are impregnated with grease is good to know. Draining the pump is straight forward as there is a plug on the bottom for this purpose. Guess it better to have damaged leathers than a frost cracked body. I'm going to drain down the pump today and hope that with the recent frost over the past couple of days that no damage has been done!
  4. Hi Barry, thx for your post. First time I've heard of this - how would I know if I have a water cooled GR fitted? Cheers Wayne
  5. Hi What is the best way to winterise the water pump on a raw water cooled JP3M? I've drained the water via the drain plug on the exhaust manifold and then the main crankcase via the value on the side. When I've come to drain the water pump, understand the freezing issue, I became concerned about the leathers drying out and if draining was actually a good idea, or if I need to protect the leathers whilst drained? Any advice on what is the best strategy for protecting the water pump in the winter is most appreciated. Thanks in advance Wayne (Tug Caggy)
  6. Hi OldBullDog Yes we have Caggy, pleased to meet your acquaintance (digitally of course). Did you speak to my wife at Parkhead? Cheers Wayne Many thanks to all who have replied to my questions. Much appreciated and helpful. I now feel confident that I'm lubbing my top end correctly! Special thx to Richard for popping over to Caggy at the weekend to have a look at the engine. Cheers Wayne
  7. Many thanks Richard, that makes sense as I couldn't find the grease cup for the rockers as indicated in the manual I have. Sorry for being a newbie and asking so many questions, but I'm learning fast. So if I take the cylinder head covers off and add engine oil to the top of the push rods and grease the rockers via the nipple, is there anything else I need to do to manually oil the top end? Many thx in advance. Wayne
  8. Thx for your reply Giant. I'm getting a little confused as to what I should be doing with the little brass nipple on the side of each cylinder head. I'm guessing this is for lubricant to the valves, but should I be filling with engine oil or grease every week? Many thx Wayne
  9. I have recently become the owner of a 1940s narrowboat tug and as such become the custodian of the Lister JP3MGR installed in it. I'm a complete newbie with this type of vintage engine, so it is a bit of a learning curve. I'm keen to learn and care for the engine correctly. I've all ready learnt a lot from reading the information posted on this forum. My first question relates to the filling of the top end with oil. The manual states that I should fill the tops of the push rods with oil and lubricate the valves every week. I presume I have to remove the rocker covers to do this? If so how do I do this? My engine doesn't have the slide across flap that exposes a filling hole on top of the cover. Each cover only has a central decompression lever. Each pot also has a small brass nipple on the side. Therefore- do I unscrew the decompression lever to release the rocker cover to fill with engine oil (the engine is currently using Morris Golden Film SAE30) to lubricate the pushrods? Do I put engine oil into the little brass nipples to lubricate the values? Many thanks in advance for any advice - it will be very much appreciated. Best wishes Wayne (Tug Caggy)
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